Which is best-2.0-2.3 or 2.5 ?
01 July 2007, 05:58 PM
#61
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So it looks like the forged 2.0 litre with a decent turbo will suit me then-i'm still not 100% sure though 
My engine has a suspected cracked piston ring land after only around 10k-15k miles of being rebuilt that's why I want a good reliable engine this time !
Will a forged rebuilt wrx engine with open deck block be strong enough ?
My engine has a suspected cracked piston ring land after only around 10k-15k miles of being rebuilt that's why I want a good reliable engine this time !
Will a forged rebuilt wrx engine with open deck block be strong enough ?
hopefully sense will see them thru
01 July 2007, 07:02 PM
#64
that 2nd hand turbo set is top of my list which is the main part of the setup !! plus on a road doing car !!! plus is dual bosch pumps not going to create a nightmare ???as one is hard enough !!!
personally for a road going ccar i would not go rotated as mark sells some cracking turbo's now which way out perform most rotated setups
if the choice of marks turbo's were around over a year ago i would not of went rotated 
personally for a road going ccar i would not go rotated as mark sells some cracking turbo's now which way out perform most rotated setups
if the choice of marks turbo's were around over a year ago i would not of went rotated
Last edited by stevebt; 01 July 2007 at 07:33 PM.
01 July 2007, 07:54 PM
#65
Mark:
I am refering to Robs car. Got my T's and H's mixed. The car does go well (and I've experienced it in the latest guise) but he still sufferes from response on some very tight hillclimb bends that are notorious even on a N/A engine of big capacity.
Those lost 10ths are hard to get back.
Having said that, when the turbo can get going for a 'long' time it is very effective.
I am refering to Robs car. Got my T's and H's mixed. The car does go well (and I've experienced it in the latest guise) but he still sufferes from response on some very tight hillclimb bends that are notorious even on a N/A engine of big capacity.
Those lost 10ths are hard to get back.
Having said that, when the turbo can get going for a 'long' time it is very effective.
01 July 2007, 08:00 PM
#66
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i already had a garrett gt30 hybrid thats sits in std position so i have sold it on and then the rotated set up only cost me £200/£300.
if i dont like the way it performs then i will sell on and get another, you dont know untill you try it.
also different people will have different opinions in regards to lag some people hate it and some are not botherd as when it hits in ...it will hit hard.
fuel pumps well i will give it a try and see how it goes
if i dont like the way it performs then i will sell on and get another, you dont know untill you try it.
also different people will have different opinions in regards to lag some people hate it and some are not botherd as when it hits in ...it will hit hard.
fuel pumps well i will give it a try and see how it goes
01 July 2007, 10:15 PM
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I've been doing that for over 4 weeks,a few looked promising-one inparticular on here looked like it would be ideal but the guy never replied to me or anyone else,he even had a 6-speed 'box for sale. Nobody heard from him after the first few posts !
01 July 2007, 11:30 PM
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Given your wishes and having an STI 5 Type R gearbox, then I would go for a mildly uprated 2 litre.
You can save money on a top dollar build by fitting newage STI rods, with uprated forged pistons, STI9 crank, ACL bearings and all the other little bits you'll need to complete the build.
Gearbox should be fine, with this engine and a 18G turbo - you will love it running 1.7/1.8 bar and you'll keep your costs to a minimum. If you can afford it then go for an MD321H turbo.
I ran the same gearbox on mine with 455bhp and 420lbft for about 3 months before I decided to uprate to a PPG straight cut dog box - the standard box was still fine.
If you go this way then you'll keep the cost down to a reasonable level.
You can save money on a top dollar build by fitting newage STI rods, with uprated forged pistons, STI9 crank, ACL bearings and all the other little bits you'll need to complete the build.
Gearbox should be fine, with this engine and a 18G turbo - you will love it running 1.7/1.8 bar and you'll keep your costs to a minimum. If you can afford it then go for an MD321H turbo.
I ran the same gearbox on mine with 455bhp and 420lbft for about 3 months before I decided to uprate to a PPG straight cut dog box - the standard box was still fine.
If you go this way then you'll keep the cost down to a reasonable level.
01 July 2007, 11:37 PM
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Given your wishes and having an STI 5 Type R gearbox, then I would go for a mildly uprated 2 litre.
You can save money on a top dollar build by fitting newage STI rods, with uprated forged pistons, STI9 crank, ACL bearings and all the other little bits you'll need to complete the build.
Gearbox should be fine, with this engine and a 18G turbo - you will love it running 1.7/1.8 bar and you'll keep your costs to a minimum. If you can afford it then go for an MD321H turbo.
I ran the same gearbox on mine with 455bhp and 420lbft for about 3 months before I decided to uprate to a PPG straight cut dog box - the standard box was still fine.
If you go this way then you'll keep the cost down to a reasonable level.
You can save money on a top dollar build by fitting newage STI rods, with uprated forged pistons, STI9 crank, ACL bearings and all the other little bits you'll need to complete the build.
Gearbox should be fine, with this engine and a 18G turbo - you will love it running 1.7/1.8 bar and you'll keep your costs to a minimum. If you can afford it then go for an MD321H turbo.
I ran the same gearbox on mine with 455bhp and 420lbft for about 3 months before I decided to uprate to a PPG straight cut dog box - the standard box was still fine.
If you go this way then you'll keep the cost down to a reasonable level.
01 July 2007, 11:45 PM
#72
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I think it will be stronger than a standard 2.5 litre. Another thing to consider is the gearing on your car - if is it quite short ratio from 1-4? If so then the higher-revving 2 litre will work better with the gearbox.
My 2 litre has had some real abuse - not many miles, but mostly trackdays/ Time Attack. I have pushed mine to over 500bhp on race fuel and it is living with it well. No real loss of oil or any other concerns.
My 2 litre has had some real abuse - not many miles, but mostly trackdays/ Time Attack. I have pushed mine to over 500bhp on race fuel and it is living with it well. No real loss of oil or any other concerns.
01 July 2007, 11:50 PM
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I think it will be stronger than a standard 2.5 litre. Another thing to consider is the gearing on your car - if is it quite short ratio from 1-4? If so then the higher-revving 2 litre will work better with the gearbox.
My 2 litre has had some real abuse - not many miles, but mostly trackdays/ Time Attack. I have pushed mine to over 500bhp on race fuel and it is living with it well. No real loss of oil or any other concerns.
My 2 litre has had some real abuse - not many miles, but mostly trackdays/ Time Attack. I have pushed mine to over 500bhp on race fuel and it is living with it well. No real loss of oil or any other concerns.
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