did you use an uprated fuel pump? walbro or such?
might also check if the fuel filter isn't blocked (or just get new one)
was the car mapped properly after rebuild?

 

It has uprated pump and AFPR was mapped 18months ago after rebuild.

I was thinking of a bigger turbo as i was told the support was there fuelling wise, now im not so sure. Could it be as simple an old/dirty fuel filter?

It runs perfect all the time it's just when you rev the **** off it the knockling goes amber just over 7k and would go red if i held it to the red line. I put new plugs in and maf used warmer plugs than before though pf6 not pf7 so im stumped, having said all this the car is having a new clutch at the moment because the release bearing went and had been rattling for months so maybe that was causing it as it was getting very noisy!

 

what heads are on the engine? at 7.5k it could very well be noisy valvetrain, and again depending on heads/cams being used it is probably pointless revving it that high. Another factor is the turbo as you have mentioned. If it is only a small turbo then its not going to be very efficient at those kind of revs (assuming cams//heads are still producing the power) when I say efficient it will be working harder to maintain a set level of boost, therefore increase intake temps which could cause det (which is what you may be experiencing) I personally would go for a bigger turbo and a remap, failing that, get somebody to check the afrs and listen for knock etc when you get into the upper rev range.

 

By far the easiest way to ensure your fuel pressure is right is to leave the pipe fitted to the FPR and setup an in car fuel pressure gauge, go for a run on a decent straight and get boost pressure to zero (no boost pressure, no vacuum) and you should then see 3 bar of fuel pressure. Then, when you give it full boost, say 1.4 bar, you see 4.4 bar of fuel pressure (it's just 3 bar fuel + max boost pressure 1.4 bar = 4.4 bar fuel ), the figures are connected since the positive boost pressure in the manifold alters the fuel pressure "retained" by the Fuel Pressure Regulator as does vacuum in the manifold.

Note: If you had the car mapped with a different fuel pressure, you'll def need it mapped again at the recommended 3 bar fuel/zero boost setup.

If you really cant do the above, then just disconnect the pipe to the FPR, run the car at idle and set the fuel pressure to around 2.4-2.6 bar, again car should be mapped at this setting to be safe.

 

Thanks again for all the help guys, i understand this now, the car was mapped at the pressure it's rumming now. My cocklink problem i think is due to a tired regulator, there is a boost spike in the higher gears 4th 5th and over 7k and looking at the regulator it looks old and probably cant hold the pressure to the redline it's abit of a guess but im struggling to see what else it could be, thanks again for your help!

 

The KL may be tuned to pick up knock events, but it can also pick up other noises such as loose heat shields.
Look for more easily solvable problems before ripping the engine apart.

 

Would a loose heatshield on the uppipe cause this as it rattles like a bugger!

 

Yup, my KL picked up the rattle on mine.

Nick

 

This could explain the flash on the knocklink as well I guess, it only starts to rattle at a certain RPM, also the knock doesnt seem boost related. Even if im running 20Psi or 10Psi it still behaves in the same way only knocks at 7.5k