LETS ASK FRAYZZZ
17 January 2008, 08:20 AM
#35
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I think D Vapor has just cut out the pi55 taking drivvel and made this into the club-helpful thread it should have been.
Have you got many posts missing???
Have you got many posts missing???
17 January 2008, 05:05 PM
#37
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03 February 2008, 05:28 PM
#40
Personally i probably wouldnt, its recomended that 235 is best for 8's.
Depending on your offset you may get some scrubbage with the 245's.
If these are for Tunrinis then id stick with the 235's, although a proper tyre centre like Supertyres/Maldon will be able to advise you better than I.
Depending on your offset you may get some scrubbage with the 245's.
If these are for Tunrinis then id stick with the 235's, although a proper tyre centre like Supertyres/Maldon will be able to advise you better than I.
03 February 2008, 05:54 PM
#43
You do need to set the bar a little higher I feel !
Tarted up my torques yesterday with a little DIY centre cap and the new nuts.
I am going to use these for some track exploration. I was going to get some Works versions for road, but my second choice turinis were half the price, no contest really.
They will do.
Tarted up my torques yesterday with a little DIY centre cap and the new nuts.
I am going to use these for some track exploration. I was going to get some Works versions for road, but my second choice turinis were half the price, no contest really.
They will do.
Love it!!
23 February 2008, 06:57 PM
#47
I know of much bigger powered track cars still on oem rads mate. A race ally rad youre looking at approx £450.
23 February 2008, 07:46 PM
#48
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Id be inclined to try a Zerosports coolstat and some water wetter first mate. if you really wanna go down the rad route id be looking at a KOYO or Fluidyne but i doubt you'll need either if you have the above.
I know of much bigger powered track cars still on oem rads mate. A race ally rad youre looking at approx £450.
I know of much bigger powered track cars still on oem rads mate. A race ally rad youre looking at approx £450.
will look into it
will keep you posted
budgie
btw, i thought about 4-5 hundred for the rad
23 February 2008, 11:57 PM
#49
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A bit more science for those that want to know.
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. Thus, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some regions of the coolant tract.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.
So now you know all about wetter water.
Water Wetter | Additives | Demon Tweeks Motorsport, Motorcycle, Modifying, Parts and Accessories
Mark
"Water Wetter" is designed to reduce hot spots in your cylinder head. It does this by reducing the build-up of water vapor in any superheated areas. The bad thing about having hot spots in your cylinder head (read combustion chamber) is that they can promote pre-ignition - definitely a bad thing. Any sharp edges in your combustion chamber (around valve seats for example) may tend to get very hot (even red hot) during operation. These areas of the combustion chamber can then form local hot spots in the cooling passages. Thus, even though your bulk coolant temperature is well below its boiling point (i.e. your gauge reads just fine), there may be localized boiling in some regions of the coolant tract.
This localized boiling can cause a layer of water vapor to form over the hot spot. This vapor forms an insulative blanket and prevents heat from leaving this area, thus making the hot spot even worse. But reducing the surface tension of the water makes it easier for vapor bubbles to leave the surface of the cylinder head and allows the bubbles to convect heat away from the area. Something that changes the surface tension of a liquid is called a "surfactant". It does not take very much surfactant to significantly change the surface tension of water. Hence, you do not need to add very much "Water Wetter" in order for it to do its job.
An additional benefit of using "Water Wetter" (in conjunction with 100% water) in you cooling system is that water has an extremely high heat capacity. Thus a gallon of 100% water can carry more heat away from your engine than an equivalent gallon of 50/50 water and coolant. Water also has a high thermal conductivity which increases the convection of heat away from the coolant passage walls and into the free stream of the liquid flowing through the passages.
"Water Wetter" does not increase the boiling point of water. Standard automotive coolant does increase the boiling point of the mixture above that of 100% water. But remember that if your cooling system is operating properly, it should never get hot enough to boil (I mean BOIL, not just localized boiling). Raising the boiling point of the coolant in passenger cars is primarily a safety measure, so that if the cooling system is over stressed (climbing a hill on a hot day with AC on), it will not boil over. On performance cars the primary duty of the cooling system is to keep the engine in its optimum temperature range. This is best accomplished with 100% water, because its high heat capacity makes it very efficient at transferring heat.
So now you know all about wetter water.
Water Wetter | Additives | Demon Tweeks Motorsport, Motorcycle, Modifying, Parts and Accessories
Mark
Last edited by FLAT ERIC; 24 February 2008 at 12:02 AM.
18 May 2008, 05:37 PM
#50
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need some help please
i have a 93 wrx with sti engine just done a fault code test and tryed a reset and it come up with 11 crankshaft position sensor,23 mass air flow sensor,32 oxygen sensor,44 wastegate control solenoid valve...also will the ecu still reset or does the faults have to be fixed first,also
just some questions if anyone can help , when connecting the black and green connecters to do a reset i can hear the solenoid valve clicking away witch i thought told me it was working is this true,
also oxygen sensor is this the one on the manifold on the bottom left hand side as if you were looking down at the engine,
the car carrys on running if maf is disconected i take it thats had it,
and the crankshaft position sensor is this the one under the alternater,
with the oxygen sensor is there a universal one i can buy,aslo with the maf as i know at the dealer can be expensive is there any were else i can get these from...
one other thing could the maf and the oxygen sensor by whats causing my car to be over fueling.. cheers any help would be greatfull
just some questions if anyone can help , when connecting the black and green connecters to do a reset i can hear the solenoid valve clicking away witch i thought told me it was working is this true,
also oxygen sensor is this the one on the manifold on the bottom left hand side as if you were looking down at the engine,
the car carrys on running if maf is disconected i take it thats had it,
and the crankshaft position sensor is this the one under the alternater,
with the oxygen sensor is there a universal one i can buy,aslo with the maf as i know at the dealer can be expensive is there any were else i can get these from...
one other thing could the maf and the oxygen sensor by whats causing my car to be over fueling.. cheers any help would be greatfull
18 May 2008, 05:55 PM
#51
i have a 93 wrx with sti engine just done a fault code test and tryed a reset and it come up with 11 crankshaft position sensor,23 mass air flow sensor,32 oxygen sensor,44 wastegate control solenoid valve...also will the ecu still reset or does the faults have to be fixed first,also
Ecu should still reset AFAIK
just some questions if anyone can help , when connecting the black and green connecters to do a reset i can hear the solenoid valve clicking away witch i thought told me it was working is this true,
also oxygen sensor is this the one on the manifold on the bottom left hand side as if you were looking down at the engine,
the car carrys on running if maf is disconected i take it thats had it,
and the crankshaft position sensor is this the one under the alternater,
Sounds as if the MAF has failed
with the oxygen sensor is there a universal one i can buy,aslo with the maf as i know at the dealer can be expensive is there any were else i can get these from...
Most Subaru tuners should be able to source you a new MAF, possibly SH one but id buy new myself
one other thing could the maf and the oxygen sensor by whats causing my car to be over fueling.. cheers any help would be greatfull
Yes most definnitely
Ecu should still reset AFAIK
just some questions if anyone can help , when connecting the black and green connecters to do a reset i can hear the solenoid valve clicking away witch i thought told me it was working is this true,
also oxygen sensor is this the one on the manifold on the bottom left hand side as if you were looking down at the engine,
the car carrys on running if maf is disconected i take it thats had it,
and the crankshaft position sensor is this the one under the alternater,
Sounds as if the MAF has failed
with the oxygen sensor is there a universal one i can buy,aslo with the maf as i know at the dealer can be expensive is there any were else i can get these from...
Most Subaru tuners should be able to source you a new MAF, possibly SH one but id buy new myself
one other thing could the maf and the oxygen sensor by whats causing my car to be over fueling.. cheers any help would be greatfull
Yes most definnitely
18 May 2008, 06:11 PM
#52
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thanks for your help but just one other thing that i wanted to know was when connecting the black and green connecters to do a reset i can hear the solenoid valve clicking away witch i thought told me it was working is this true,case it is coming up with 44 whitch would be that would it not.?
also oxygen sensor is this the one on the manifold on the bottom left hand side as if you were looking down at the engine,also what sort of prices do each of these parts go for if you can shed any light on what its gona cost to sort everything cheers thanks for the help.
also oxygen sensor is this the one on the manifold on the bottom left hand side as if you were looking down at the engine,also what sort of prices do each of these parts go for if you can shed any light on what its gona cost to sort everything cheers thanks for the help.
18 May 2008, 06:13 PM
#53
Those are questions im nott 100% sure of mate,
Best off asking someone like Zak @ mocomracing.
Mocom Racing - Performance car and trackday products
Best off asking someone like Zak @ mocomracing.
Mocom Racing - Performance car and trackday products
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