How tight should the oil filter be put back in?

 

Now now, don't change the subject HAND tight - approx 1/4 turn from contact of the seal.

You're on a bit of a sticky wicket here, Pete. You brag about "possibly" being the most qualified engineer on this board, but with so many branches of "Engineering" your statement really doesn't mean a thing! You could have a doctorate in certain areas but know absolutely nothing about tribology! Surely, as an engineer, you would be keen to take every advantage of the advancement in lubrication technology? I certainly do. If you want to remain in the "Fred Dibna" (one of my heros, actually!) mode of thinking, then fine!
By the way, D1CCY is right in saying that when the filter is removed, oil held in the area above the filter will drain and this will only be replaced when pressurised oil reaches that gallery. The air that was there now circulates in front of the body of oil until it is dispersed. Seems common sense to me!
From the length of this post, it's clear that I have too much time on my hands!

JohnD (Semi-retired lecturer in mechanical and production engineering, but ONLY in a college of further education )

 

Just had a look under the car to try and see where the filter is, how do you get the plastic cover off? Is it the black fastener thingys with the wire round them? I don't want to start damaging stuff with my cack handedness!

 

The undertray is held by two bolts at the front (in recesses) two bolts at the back (easily visable) two plastic push-in fasteners each side and two grey plastic clips at the back which clamp the rear of the undertray and the front of the gearbox cover to a crossmember.
Sounds pretty horrendous, but in fact is quite simple. You need to get under and trace the bits I'm talking about and it should become pretty clear! Don't be put off, it's a good DIY job and gives you a chance to check things out under there!
JohnD

 

I promised myself that I wouldn't get dragged into this, but the the sheer arrogance of Pete is astounding.

Fortunately, JohnD has said pretty much what I was thinking; in that 'Engineering' is such a broad term, that unless he has studied the effect of very high temperatures on synthetic vs. mineral oil molecular structures, then he is no more qualified to comment than any of the (many) other highly educated posters.

Perhaps he does know more about oil than F1 racing teams (with millions spent on research) and numerous builders/tuners who recommend synthetic oil. Or perhaps not...

Anyway, we all know Pete's car never goes over 3000rpm, so oil temperatures are not an issue. Some of us use our cars as God intended, however.

 

And Subaru spend millions on research, research into oils and bearings and their engines .............. they do NOT state that the sensor needs to be removed.

In fact FUJI Heavy Industries back my Engineering statements 100%.

I guess that makes it Game, Set and Match in my favour then?

Apologies will be considered for acceptance

 

It seems that you are still talking about the crank sensor removal nonsense.

My first post on this thread stated that it is of dubious benefit.

My argument is that synthetic oil is superior to semi-synthetic. It is personal choice whether you think the extra cost is worth paying for more protection, however small the difference may be.

Advantage Mark...

 

Changing Oil regularly means that the Fully Sythetic Oil has lost its big advantage over Semi which is extended Oil change periods.

Therefore, if you change your Oil at 6 months/7500miles Fully Sythetic is a waste of money ....... Subaru themselves recommend Semi.

Advantage and Game Over to Pete me thinks

 

Whilst I agree that in stock road used Iprezas a 10w-40 semi-synthetic will suffice if the recommended oil changes are observed I cannot agree that this is the right policy for all Imprezas.

By this I mean the following exclusions

Modified Cars
Cars used offroad or in stressed circumstances
Later Imprezas where synthetic 5w-30's and the like are recommended

I would also add that it's the owners choice at the end of the day and using a better oil will have its advantages although will cost more.

As usual, we are happy to advise those in doubt over at Opie Oils - Performance and Heating Oils

Cheers
Simon

PS. Glad you like the Fuchs Pete, damn fine oil for the money

 

Well after getting lots of advice at 2 different local car shops I got some comma 5/30 semi synthetic as this was recommended as the best for the engine by both! One even pleaded with me not to put fully synthetic in it as it may lead to damage to the oilways! What's going on????????? Thoroughly confused now.

 

Just tried to get the sump cover off and the two screws at the front will not budge at all. So maybe won't be doing the oil and filter change after all! I've left them with plenty of wd40 on them and try again tomorrow.

 

They are bolts - ie. Hex Heads ...... you are trying to undo the right things, are you?

 

The Motor Factors see the independant mechanics coming into them for Oil every single day ...... my Factor, who I have known for 25 years, tells me that those that know buy Comma Semi - end of. They do not get swayed by the fancy names and the fancy packaging ........ cheapest is best value

 

as ive said on another thread earlier today i bought subaru oil filter and sump bung washer and 2 gallons of the oil subaru put in your car for £25.63 the oil was £7.65 +vat thats £1.68 ltr +vat

and even prodrive dont take the sensor out first on a rally car

i forgot to say i bought it all from a main dealer as well

 

Sense spoken .......

There is absolutely no reason to spend big money on Oil ...... as an Engineer I know.

Problem is when you are an Accountant, Banker or IT Geek - you can be scared into paying money for something you don't need and doing things there is no need to do ....... I really do feel sorry for them

 

Well, they're not going to recommend something they don't sell, are they!
The handbook does indeed say that 5/30 is recommended, whereas on the earlier models the handbook warned against its use for "fast highway" driving.
Don't do any track days with it, though!

Oh my God! does that mean for the last 4 years my crankshaft has been slowly disintegrating
What he probably meant was the oil seals. In the early days of using full-synthetic oil, some engines suffered oil seal problems (swelling?) I believe due to either the esters or poly***-fins (forgot how to spell it) or both? (Oilman will tell you?) Manufacturers have long since cured the problem.
Someone else who is obviously living in the past?
Do the oil change and enjoy

JohnD

 

I was trying to get the right things off, hex headed bolts, I just didn't describe them very well

 

This oil thread is DEAD.

Pete is right. There is nothing remotely complicated about an oil change. What's this utter bollox about crank sensors? Boring, boring, boring. Some people have far too much time on their hands.

 

I think they are 13mm - 1/2 inch ........... they are stiff - put some muscle into it man!!

 

The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-

1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.

2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)

3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.

4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.

5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.

6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.

7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.

8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.

9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!

10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.

11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.

12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!

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OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-

Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!

 

pmsl

 

i think iv got it sussed but got stuck on the titanic theme tune can any one hummm it while i try to get the car started

ow and number 6 as well where do i get a decent morris dancing outfit for step 6 .

 

Excellent work!

 

It's old, from my old days

 

where do you get them morris dancing outfits in xxl

 

Special Order from www.sad-*****.com

 

ear ear !!

 

If you change the oil while it is still moderately lukewarm, there is no need to do anything but empty, swap filter and replace then fill with appropriate level of oil, job done. All this cranking nonsense might only apply if the car hasnt moved in months/years and there was a chance of parts almost siezing during that time.
I would always rub a little oil round the rubber o ring on the filter though.

 

Don't most modern oils have 'stuff' that sticks to the metal parts to some degree to help cold start.
This wont drain off in the time it takes to change the oil will it?

 

Most oils will be more modern today than they were 3 years ago when this thread was started......:rolley es: