Time for "the" upgrade!
#91
#93
I've gone from autobahn fmic to sti top mount, and even though the car's not mapped for the sti intercooler yet, off boost driveability is a lot nicer. It just feels like pickup is a lot better (IMO). Don't know abuot charge temps or outright power available from both, but so far I'm happy
dont get that, mine, although be it a different model (i think yours is a new age isn't it), is as happy tootling at 30mph as it is belting me in the back lol, i still think operhaps it was a setup issue with it ratehr than an issue with the cooler.
i havn't had any driveability issues, and NS04 hasn't mentioned any either, (unless he has and i've not spotted them)
#94
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From: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
dont get that, mine, although be it a different model (i think yours is a new age isn't it), is as happy tootling at 30mph as it is belting me in the back lol, i still think operhaps it was a setup issue with it ratehr than an issue with the cooler.
i havn't had any driveability issues, and NS04 hasn't mentioned any either, (unless he has and i've not spotted them)
i havn't had any driveability issues, and NS04 hasn't mentioned any either, (unless he has and i've not spotted them)
Worth it for the noise!!!
#95
don't get me wrong, it's a very subtle difference My car just didnt' feel as crisp off boost with the FMIC as opposed to the TMIC. It was almost like the throttle response was delayed a little (tiny) bit. On boost, there were no issues with throttle response or pick-up.
I might be completely wrong here, but I'm thinking it might have something to do with the pipe-length of the FMIC's combined with the slow air speed in the pipes at low revs.
My theory is that when the throttle body opens more (i.e. I press the throttle), the engine sucks air in. With a long pipework, it takes comparably long for the air movement to change at the MAF, maybe this is enough to mess the "feel" up on my car. I'm sure it's not the same on all cars, so it might just be mine that's weird
I might be completely wrong here, but I'm thinking it might have something to do with the pipe-length of the FMIC's combined with the slow air speed in the pipes at low revs.
My theory is that when the throttle body opens more (i.e. I press the throttle), the engine sucks air in. With a long pipework, it takes comparably long for the air movement to change at the MAF, maybe this is enough to mess the "feel" up on my car. I'm sure it's not the same on all cars, so it might just be mine that's weird
#98
I then put a 2.5 & GT30 turbo on and seems to have cured it
#101
#104
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From: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
It's more of a pain for the new age cars, unless you're prepared to spend an awful lot of money on a APS one and it's of less benefit, as the STi 8 TMIC is very good for most people's needs.
For classics, its more straight forward and a case can be made for it at lower levels of tune than the new age cars. The major hassle is fitting it, but it can be made a lot easier if you buy a good quality kit like the Hybrid. The benefits are very obvious. I certainly won't be going back to the a TMIC on mine!
See my review of the pros and cons
Ns04
#106
I think that applies to any modification!
It's more of a pain for the new age cars, unless you're prepared to spend an awful lot of money on a APS one and it's of less benefit, as the STi 8 TMIC is very good for most people's needs.
For classics, its more straight forward and a case can be made for it at lower levels of tune than the new age cars. The major hassle is fitting it, but it can be made a lot easier if you buy a good quality kit like the Hybrid. The benefits are very obvious. I certainly won't be going back to the a TMIC on mine!
See my review of the pros and cons
Ns04
It's more of a pain for the new age cars, unless you're prepared to spend an awful lot of money on a APS one and it's of less benefit, as the STi 8 TMIC is very good for most people's needs.
For classics, its more straight forward and a case can be made for it at lower levels of tune than the new age cars. The major hassle is fitting it, but it can be made a lot easier if you buy a good quality kit like the Hybrid. The benefits are very obvious. I certainly won't be going back to the a TMIC on mine!
See my review of the pros and cons
Ns04
#107
you get what you pay for tbh. alot of the no brand stuff on ebay is total crap, welds are poor, fitments isn't good and there more trouble than the money you saved.
however in some cases you can get some good stuff and cheap prices, might be worth looking out for branded stuff
#108
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From: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
you get what you pay for tbh. alot of the no brand stuff on ebay is total crap, welds are poor, fitments isn't good and there more trouble than the money you saved.
however in some cases you can get some good stuff and cheap prices, might be worth looking out for branded stuff
however in some cases you can get some good stuff and cheap prices, might be worth looking out for branded stuff
Exhaust is not really something you want to scrimp on given how important it is to a turbo engine! I'd be getting new, or second hand from one of the proven manufacturers such as Haywood and Scott, Revolution, Scoobymania, etc..
Ns04
#112
Well seeing that I feel like the RAF (lots of projects, no money! ) I have to start somewhere!
Going to get a K&N Typhoon Kit for the Wagon.
From what I have seen on their site they estimate around 15.85 HP @ 5050 RPM.
Sounds good for a start!
Going to get a K&N Typhoon Kit for the Wagon.
From what I have seen on their site they estimate around 15.85 HP @ 5050 RPM.
Sounds good for a start!
Last edited by Janspeed; 24 June 2008 at 04:13 PM.
#113
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Can thoroughly recommend doing the rear ARB ( adjustable Whiteline with drop-links on mine ! BEST VALUE MOD on my car ! ! ).
My input on the IC is that my STI wilted in the heat after about 40 miles of "fun", whilst standard..... so I went to an FMIC, and it's not an issue anymore.
Also having a huge IC core is some substitute for crash protection.... NOT !
LOL
DunxC
P.S. My prescription, check which type of injectors your car has (or STI pinks, VF 35, de-cat up-pipe, catted down pipe, de-res centre section, and an up-rated fuel pump, and the rear ARB to help the car handle the extra power....
Oh ! and a re-map...
Dr. Duncan
My input on the IC is that my STI wilted in the heat after about 40 miles of "fun", whilst standard..... so I went to an FMIC, and it's not an issue anymore.
Also having a huge IC core is some substitute for crash protection.... NOT !
LOL
DunxC
P.S. My prescription, check which type of injectors your car has (or STI pinks, VF 35, de-cat up-pipe, catted down pipe, de-res centre section, and an up-rated fuel pump, and the rear ARB to help the car handle the extra power....
Oh ! and a re-map...
Dr. Duncan
#115
the main problem here in portugal is the remap, some guys have their subarus mapped by some uk mappers but that isn't cheap... you have to pay for quality work
in a near future I would like to have it mapped by a uk guy ( after fitting some go fast bits ), meanwhile I think upgrading the chassis will be a better and cheaper option... just thinking in springs and arbs, just still not sure what to choose.
maybe whiteline flat out springs, drop links and 24mm arbs?
in a near future I would like to have it mapped by a uk guy ( after fitting some go fast bits ), meanwhile I think upgrading the chassis will be a better and cheaper option... just thinking in springs and arbs, just still not sure what to choose.
maybe whiteline flat out springs, drop links and 24mm arbs?
#116
the main problem here in portugal is the remap, some guys have their subarus mapped by some uk mappers but that isn't cheap... you have to pay for quality work
in a near future I would like to have it mapped by a uk guy ( after fitting some go fast bits ), meanwhile I think upgrading the chassis will be a better and cheaper option... just thinking in springs and arbs, just still not sure what to choose.
maybe whiteline flat out springs, drop links and 24mm arbs?
in a near future I would like to have it mapped by a uk guy ( after fitting some go fast bits ), meanwhile I think upgrading the chassis will be a better and cheaper option... just thinking in springs and arbs, just still not sure what to choose.
maybe whiteline flat out springs, drop links and 24mm arbs?
#117
K&N Typhoon kit it is then!
Also some braided hoses for the brakes, some EBC red stuff pads and I'm still thinking about them Whiteline ARBs.......
Slowly but surely I'll get there!
Also some braided hoses for the brakes, some EBC red stuff pads and I'm still thinking about them Whiteline ARBs.......
Slowly but surely I'll get there!