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Classic Facelift Modding

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Old 15 July 2008, 08:44 AM
  #31  
frayz
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Originally Posted by Cornelius
Frayz, thanks for the heads up How does the catch tank connect to the sump? does it go into the sump plug?

For somereason, whether I post pics using my Photobucket account, they never come up on the thread, but when I use motormeet in exactly the same way, there's never a problem! I must be doing something fundamentally wrong, but can't work out what it is!

You have 2 options...

1) Remove the pan and weld a fitting for the return (i'll be doing this as my pan will be off anyway.

2)Buy an extended sump plug and use a large -an fitting banjo to fasten to it and use that to plumb back into the pan.

As for the photobucket issue.

The 4 links that are below each pic in your account. Its the bottom one you need to copy and paste. Dont past it into an "add pic" box. Just paste it directly into your post.
Old 15 July 2008, 09:15 AM
  #32  
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Thanks Frayz
Old 15 July 2008, 05:49 PM
  #33  
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[quote=Cornelius;8006201]Started work on the inlet manifold mods over the weekend, so here goes.

Camshafts anyone?



Inlet manifold removed from engine, with breather pipes, intake pipe and wiring loom removed:



Trial fitting to see how much work is involved in rotating the inlet:



The manifold fits in nicely, AND the bonnet closes without fouling so far so good!!

The alternator needs to be repositioned to where the A/C should be, but as my Scoob hasn't got it - plenty of room!! though as the alternator has got to be flipped, the bracket needed to be modified slightly, this involved cutting a small slither out of both corners, the side section bent forward and welded up.


[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m22/Cornelius555/DSC00314.jpg[/IMG]


The inlet manifold stripped down bare:



And now masked up and painted:



I painted it with red hammerite. didn't want to try and make the car look like an STI, hence using hammerite instead of crinkle red. I'm not really happy with the colour to be honest, so probably will respray it black at a later date.

Injectors:



Pipe work cut down ready for the parallel fuel rail conversion:



New pipe work ready for the next part:


Last edited by Cornelius; 15 July 2008 at 05:58 PM.
Old 15 July 2008, 06:04 PM
  #34  
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Today's job:

Refitted the injectors to the inlet manifold, and put the pipe work in.


I swapped the injector on No.4 cylinder for No.3 to see if it's the injectors making a racket, or as originally thought, the valve lifters needing reshimming.

Thanks for the advice Frayz!
Old 15 July 2008, 07:45 PM
  #35  
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No worries...

Cant have you as TAPPETYRacing
Old 15 July 2008, 08:30 PM
  #36  
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How about this?
Old 15 July 2008, 10:48 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by spally
someone has been a busy boy.....

It don't take long to take this all off the engine and stripped down mate.

Got to get a turbo intake pipe to replace the split one, then it can be rebuilt.

Hoping to have it back on the road this weekend, though got to check the lifter/cam clearances to find out for definate where the noise is coming from, or at least ruling thing out.
Old 16 July 2008, 05:34 PM
  #38  
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It's all coming together now:





Ordered a silicone intake pipe today, so hopefully should have it by the weekend so the engine can be put back together again
Old 16 July 2008, 06:44 PM
  #39  
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Lookin good , is going back on reversed then ?
Old 16 July 2008, 06:53 PM
  #40  
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hopefully it will be reversed mate. The problem with reversing the standard manifold is space, the fuel lines and breather pipes need to be modified, hence doing these conversions. Also the manifold pipes are bowed to allow the intake pipe to be mounted under it, with the standard intake, there's very little clearance when the manifold is reversed, but with the silicone hose I've ordered, it shouldn't be a problem. Won't know for definate until the pipe comes.
So far it's all looking good, but there's still the question of the dumpvalve, as the I/C hs also got to be rotated, the DV will be pointing through the bonnet!!
I've heard of lt of Scoobs running without a DV, so this may be an option, at least for the short term anyway
Old 16 July 2008, 07:01 PM
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be interesting if you can do it bud. , I'll wait to see
Old 16 July 2008, 08:02 PM
  #42  
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What turbo is on it Paul?
Old 16 July 2008, 10:00 PM
  #43  
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it's just a lowly TD04 mate
Old 16 July 2008, 11:12 PM
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Mitsubishi item then. Should be okay without a DV.

You can always run a remote DV pipe and mount the actual DV elsewhere out of the way.
Old 17 July 2008, 06:25 PM
  #45  
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Frayz -

No updates today, been too busy stripping down and reconditioning a pump at work, though my new intake pipe has come so will be picking it up tomorrow. All going well, the scoob will be done (apart from the lifters) this weekend
Old 18 July 2008, 08:10 AM
  #46  
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Great thread Paul.

Keep it coming......

Dazza
Old 18 July 2008, 12:11 PM
  #47  
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once you are done Paul, we will get the cars together for a little photo meet
Old 18 July 2008, 01:34 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by spally
once you are done Paul, we will get the cars together for a little photo meet
Ok mate, will give you a shout.

Picked up the shiney new silicone intake pipe today, and it fits nicely under the "reversed" manifold.

As I got in trouble last night, I better state that it was Bri4n who first saw the gaffer tape bodge on the original intake pipe

If the weather holds out this weekend, the car should be done

Pics to follow
Old 20 July 2008, 02:51 PM
  #49  
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Engine back together again:





Unwanted pipes removed from the conversions:



Sorry for not taking pics whilst refitting everything, it put up a fight every step of the way! The silicone intake pipe I got turned out to be bigger than the original item, and the Tee's and elbows are slightly in the wrong place. A none of these were being used again, they were plugged off.
Also, to get enought clearance to fit the intake pipe, I had to cut off 2 mounts on the underside of the inlet which used to hold the redundant fuel lines in place.

Some how one of the boost lines have shrunk

Yes Bri4n, I remembered to get the bolt out I dropped into the Front mount pipe

I had to admit defeat with the reversed inlet manifold because of the water line which runs across the block, there simply isnt enough clearance, I couldn't remove it as it supplies the coolant to the block.

I had bid on Ebay for a set of STI cams, valves, lifters etc but I lost in the dying seconds (as usual!!) so I bolted the rocker cover back on to do at a later date.

I got so wound up yesterday with the rebuild I had to walk away, it wasn't going smoothly at all, so I left the car out of the garage over night, and had a bit of a worry when 12:00AM came and there was a gang of kids in the street, but the car wasn't touched, so no problem and a huge sigh of relief!!

Today I resumed the build, bought new NGK platinum spark plugs and fitted those. As the intake pipe was longer, I had to cut down the convoluted pipe from the MAF pipe to get the air filter to fit in place.

With everything plugged in, it was time to start the engine, it took a few goes, not unexpected really as the fuel lines where bone dry, and it fired into life, though running a little rough. The fuel pressue gauge was reading 2 bar, so increased this to 4 bar and hey presto, sorted!

Took in for a run down to the refineries and back, no problems until I got to the round about by Calor and the car died on me, I forgot to tighten the battery terminals done that and away I went again.

To be honest, I can't say the parallel fuel rails have made a difference, but thats probably because the engine is pretty standard, but after removing all the "unecessary" items, the engine bay looks a little tidier! At least it's ready for some serious mods now

The main result I've had from the mini rebuild is that the tapping noise has gone, I can't explain it, I would love to say I done this that and the other to repair the engine, but I can't, it's a mystery, and one I'll probably never get to the bottom of!!

Oh well, the block is giving 150PSI of pressure, no knocking or tapping noises and is running nicely, what more can I ask?

Now the engine is running sweet, the question is, do I sell it and buy an STI or stick with it?

It's a UK car, so the gearbox limit is 350BHP, so if I carry on with my original plan, I'll either have to get a PPG gearset, a 6 speeder or an STI gearbox.

I'd have to fork out more money to get an STI, though the extra money could be used to buy a 6 speeder?

Decisions decisions!!
Old 20 July 2008, 05:21 PM
  #50  
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The parallel rails wont make any difference to the running of the car mate, just acts as a preventitive against the last injector in the series going lean due to starvation.

Its a safety mod for when proper power comes
Old 21 July 2008, 08:16 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by frayz
The parallel rails wont make any difference to the running of the car mate, just acts as a preventitive against the last injector in the series going lean due to starvation.

Its a safety mod for when proper power comes
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