he said it was a sti and he showed me the difference with an sti and wrx block, they are using my v3 sti heads also.
i was just a bit paranoid that the engine would be weak and not last very long, at the end of the day i just want what i have paid for, a wrx sti version 3 not a wrx

 

I understand your paranoia but judging by your last post they seem to be doing everything to reassure you, fair play to them.

 

it,s getting worse
went to see how garage are getting on with the car after work today as i work away all week driving a truck so not able to get there in the week.
they where just finishing it off so i waited a while to see them fire her up.
so it started up no probs for about 30 seconds then a nasty tapping noise developed in one of the heads
i dont know what it is but starting to get a bit annoyed to say the least, and wondering if when i do eventually get it back if its just going to be one of those cars thats just going to be problem after problem

 

Very bad luck m8 is the garage a Subaru/performance specialist?
What sort of money did you pay for the car??
Can you get your money back??

 

they sell and break subarus, have a large workshop and seem to do a lot of rebuilds on peoples cars, 5k for the car.
they think it is a shim??? does this make any sense to anyone

 

Do you mean forged crank shaft for sti and cast for wrx? I though all crankshaft were forged mate? Why the *** can't Subaru forge everything then we can tune them to the max?

 

Did they strip the heads? if they didn't it doesn't sound good if they used the old heads and its making a noise straight away
5K is about top wack for a V3 STI.
If you feel unhappy try get your money back find another one.

Sent Private PM

 

Sorry to hear your news mate. I think the garage sounds good and honest. Let them sort it out mate. At least it happened now rather than 6 months later.

 

mate to be fair they sound a little tappy anyway and my V3 STI has piston slap when cold bad but shuts up when warm,,, though the heads are stil tappy

shims ARE the problem mate, get them to adjust them and you will be fine,, they aint a complicated engine at all and a OLD design of engine too in reality ( though 4 cam is newish)

good luck mate and hopes things get sorted,, good news is when it is rebuilt at least you aint gotta worry about that for another 50k miles !!!

 

this wasnt a quiet tap it was very loud and obvious there was a problem in there somewhere. i dont know if the heads where stripped or not but im guessing not

 

mate if its a tap on one side then let them deal with it mate, its costing nothing as as its a dealer theres a " fit for what its sold for" cover to help you

 

No I meant Steel which is made from one piece billet. Much stronger
But must have been just another piece of wrong information on the internet

 

All crankshafts are most definately forged from one piece of metal. Your almost there.

 

nope, cast ones are made from molten metal,, forged ones and made from a block and machined into the shape,,,, there stronger as cast ones ( hot forged) contain tiny airbubbles that are hard to remove when casting them and make whats termed as " cheesy" sections that allow flex and then fatigue to then crack or snap

billiet is easier to make with no air bubbles and then its generally near the top which is machined out anyway

hope that explains it a little better

 

A forged part is alot stronger than a cast part because it is treated to change is molicular structure ginge. I learnt that when I was becoming an engineer. There is no way a crankshaft would be just cast! That's why spanners are forged. If they were cast they would break.

 

they do

im SURE that cast cranks are hot forged ( squeeze cast) and billet ones are cold forged ( machined with a tool on a lath ect

treatments are classified by the material codes ( 7005 is heat treated alloy but softer treatment that 6061 T6 which is harder/stiffer but also heat treated)

i could be wrong but thats how ive been taught it

 

Didn't mean to start arguments
I meant steal billet as apposed to a STD crank which I guess is cast then forged

 

Ok you have a die casting for a crankshaft. Weak spots are heat treated, usually on the fillets. You harden the parts that are subjected to wear. i.e conrods. Cold drawn bar is the strongest I agree. A crankshaft is the most complex part of the engine because of all it's different purposes. Strength, toughness, torsional stress and wear. I'm sure somebody here who works just on crankshaft s could enlighten us.

 

hey i like learning, my job involves getting certain car parts made for us by other companys so i try to learn as much as i can before buying stuff or sending off patterns to be made

im MORE that willing to listen to things that i misunderstand/am ignorant about as knowlege is very important !!!

 

booked a week off work so i can see what the hell is going on with my motor!! they recon today i will have it back???/ be on the phone to them soon.

 

rang garage today and now they say they have got to put a new head on it as one is f****D!!! this is turning into a bloody nightmare surley i would of thought they would of found this out when they rebuilt it the second time around!!

 

Nightmare did they say what was wrong with it??

Make sure they use the correct STI head think the V3 & V4 heads are the same but the earlier and later ones are different. (somebody might confirm this)

 

You could always let Api undertake the work and bill the garage. Depends whether the garage will accept a specialist doing the repair-costs you see.

I hope it turns out ok for you.

 

no they didnt say what was wrong with it but when i was there on friday when they started it up the noise it started making sounded similar to what it did before it seized!!. obviously they are not looking at why it has done this for the second time as they recon they rebuilt the engine before i decided to buy it thats 3 engine builds in a couple of weeks!!! i just hope they have used sti forged pistons and they are using sti v3/4 heads. i just want what i have paid for

 

Maybe they didn't get the debris from the first failure and it's just Fubared the next rebuild. All speculation though.

I really don't like the sound of this mate: it should have been fixed right the first time. I suggest you ask for your money back!

May be an idea to speak to David at APi for advice on what to look out for and how to proceed. He most definitely knows what he is talking about when it comes to rebuilds!

Ns04

 

I'd be askin for my money back. Fact.

Plenty more fish in the sea.. . . . . .

 

I would reject the car and get your money back. Plenty of others out there which won't keep you wondering if they'll blow up again. You are well within your rights to take it back.

 

i agree with this statement; i had a big end bearing on my scoob fail in april; took the engine out to a specialist in swansea, he said theres a restrictor in the cylinder head oilways that needs to be removed so any debris can be cleaned out, maybe this was'nt done on the last rebuild?
hope you get the car back soon, i'm hoping to get mine back this week as well

 

IIRC the oil pump and cooler has to go as well as they collect debris.

Ns04

 

Wragging it, causes it. Quick cars like Imprezas usually fail whilst theyre still very recent purchases.