My engine went bang
07 July 2008, 08:02 PM
#31
smooth inlets can cause the fuel to stay as fluid,,,,, cant remember the reason why but it needs to be a little ruff to stop it condisating,,,, or what ever the term is
07 July 2008, 11:00 PM
#33
08 July 2008, 07:01 PM
#34
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Got the heads off today...
Can anybody give me a quick blast through on the process, on how to split the block and remove the crank.
Is it attached to one side????
Wanna split it tomorrow
Can anybody give me a quick blast through on the process, on how to split the block and remove the crank.
Is it attached to one side????
Wanna split it tomorrow
10 July 2008, 07:46 PM
#35
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Got it all appart now.
It seems it has picked up on the piston nearest the back & also the rear main had started to pick up.
I will need a new rod aswell as a new crank, it spun the bloody bearing!!!
It seems it has picked up on the piston nearest the back & also the rear main had started to pick up.
I will need a new rod aswell as a new crank, it spun the bloody bearing!!!
11 July 2008, 10:25 PM
#39
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I doubt it will b cheaper to buy a new bottom end.
I i rebuild, i only have to pay for parts and also i will know its had a good job done to it.
Im also rebuilding my heads while its appart.
If i buy a new bottom end, i will have to pay out on the parts and the labour.
I did think about the 2.5 bottom end, but just want to stick with the standard unit
I i rebuild, i only have to pay for parts and also i will know its had a good job done to it.
Im also rebuilding my heads while its appart.
If i buy a new bottom end, i will have to pay out on the parts and the labour.
I did think about the 2.5 bottom end, but just want to stick with the standard unit
14 July 2008, 07:49 PM
#41
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Those aren't EBC greenstuffs? 
If so, please get rid before you end up in the back of someone in heavy traffic (they don't work well when cold/cool, and warp disks when they get too hot ), stock Unipart pads out-perform them.
If so, please get rid before you end up in the back of someone in heavy traffic (they don't work well when cold/cool, and warp disks when they get too hot ), stock Unipart pads out-perform them.
14 July 2008, 08:53 PM
#42
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a mate of mine brought a scooby with them on, they are deadly!!
14 July 2008, 10:16 PM
#43
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No problems with them
They are loads better thn the brakes i had on
Discs 3mm liped and warped
Pads were down to the warning indicator, but as i was skint i removed the warning indicator and refitted
Used to fade well fast lol
I have just about bedded them in, done a good 1000 miles of nice soft and gental braking, so discs wont warp!
They are loads better thn the brakes i had on
Discs 3mm liped and warped
Pads were down to the warning indicator, but as i was skint i removed the warning indicator and refitted
Used to fade well fast lol
I have just about bedded them in, done a good 1000 miles of nice soft and gental braking, so discs wont warp!
15 July 2008, 12:08 AM
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Trust me, maybe an improvement over worn pads/disks, but they are worse than brand new stock.
Also if your car has 3 channel ABS (up to MY98 IIRC), make sure the rears have matching greens as well. Otherwise your likely to get "ABS kicks in = car doesn't stop" scienario during low speed emergency stops.
Where in certain circumstances (usually cool brakes at low speeds) the rears can end up doing more work than the fronts. Should one need to stop quickly, or if the car hits a bump while braking moderately. The result is the ABS gets its knickers in a twist and you end up with no braking effort at all - wet or dry roads (worse when wet though). .
It is one of the most scariest things that I have ever had happen in a car travelling below 30mph. Replacing the front pads fixed it on three of the EBC equipped Imprezas that were suffering from this problem - one being my own. Plus my friend wants EBC to pay his insurance excess after he met with the boot of an Audi.
Proof of the problem is rear wheels locking when the ABS fuse is pulled...first 3 wet emergency stops at 30mph, the rears lock first, after teh 4th stop, the fronts start locking up instead. Wish I could put the cars on a brake tester to get more conclusive proof...but being AWD makes it tricky - I would have had to remove the propshaft.
Also if your car has 3 channel ABS (up to MY98 IIRC), make sure the rears have matching greens as well. Otherwise your likely to get "ABS kicks in = car doesn't stop" scienario during low speed emergency stops.
Where in certain circumstances (usually cool brakes at low speeds) the rears can end up doing more work than the fronts. Should one need to stop quickly, or if the car hits a bump while braking moderately. The result is the ABS gets its knickers in a twist and you end up with no braking effort at all - wet or dry roads (worse when wet though). .
It is one of the most scariest things that I have ever had happen in a car travelling below 30mph. Replacing the front pads fixed it on three of the EBC equipped Imprezas that were suffering from this problem - one being my own. Plus my friend wants EBC to pay his insurance excess after he met with the boot of an Audi.
Proof of the problem is rear wheels locking when the ABS fuse is pulled...first 3 wet emergency stops at 30mph, the rears lock first, after teh 4th stop, the fronts start locking up instead. Wish I could put the cars on a brake tester to get more conclusive proof...but being AWD makes it tricky - I would have had to remove the propshaft.
Last edited by Shark Man; 15 July 2008 at 12:15 AM.
15 July 2008, 11:44 AM
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Not having ABS is probably a good thing in this case.
However in future, if you ever get problem with the rears locking up, you know where to look
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