Noooooo ... i selected the wrong gear!!!!!
15 August 2008, 08:37 PM
#32
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Wanna see a nice distruction? :mrgreen:
A nice over rev with PPG dog engage 2 to 1 at 36 psi of boost. This just the engine pieces did also break the pulleys etc..
A nice over rev with PPG dog engage 2 to 1 at 36 psi of boost. This just the engine pieces did also break the pulleys etc..
15 August 2008, 09:55 PM
#34
Drag it!
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nobody has seen the close ups of my 2nd to 1st selection 
although the 8500rpm in 4th to 1st was the worst, sheered the flywheel clean off the crank!!!
although the 8500rpm in 4th to 1st was the worst, sheered the flywheel clean off the crank!!!
15 August 2008, 10:15 PM
#35
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20 August 2008, 10:36 AM
#36
well engines out now in an attempt to diagnose......
Clutch & Flywheel are still intact and seem ok
two of the spark plugs look ok .......
What do you think is then next step to diagnose.....sump off ?? I'm thinking it's the shells that have mangled into the sump ???
Clutch & Flywheel are still intact and seem ok
two of the spark plugs look ok .......
What do you think is then next step to diagnose.....sump off ?? I'm thinking it's the shells that have mangled into the sump ???
20 August 2008, 03:40 PM
#37
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What do the other 2 plugs look like?
Even if you suspect bottom end I would pull the heads off anyway to take a look at the valves and clean everything out.
Even if you suspect bottom end I would pull the heads off anyway to take a look at the valves and clean everything out.
20 August 2008, 04:30 PM
#39
i'm just a little concearned about taking the heads off and the job involved in putting it all back together (precisely & acurately), is it easy enough to do ??
just off to check the rest of the engine now i have finished work. it got a bit late last night.
just off to check the rest of the engine now i have finished work. it got a bit late last night.
20 August 2008, 04:56 PM
#40
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I did something very similar to this the other night,was in 4th but selected 3rd instead of 5th,engine light came on for a second. All seems fine but was wondering if i had done any damage.
The engine is forged and its a 2.5!
would the damage be done there and then and be noticable or would it gradulally get worse?
Just fretting now probably over nothing!
O sorry to jump on your thread!
Dannytwo
The engine is forged and its a 2.5!
would the damage be done there and then and be noticable or would it gradulally get worse?
Just fretting now probably over nothing!
O sorry to jump on your thread!
Dannytwo
20 August 2008, 05:26 PM
#41
no dont worry danny i'm the same, i'm worried about that too and if it seems ok will it be long term?
mine has metal in the sump though and sounded like a bag of spanners shortly after, plus it's only a standard RA block and not a 2.5 forged.
mine has metal in the sump though and sounded like a bag of spanners shortly after, plus it's only a standard RA block and not a 2.5 forged.
20 August 2008, 06:29 PM
#42
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It will not do it much good but if it didn't go pop straight away I wouldn't worry about it too much but don’t do it again 
If you have metal in the sump the motor will have to be totally stripped to clean the metal swarf from the oil ways etc anyway. Have a read through some of the project threads some guys there have/are in the process of full rebuilds due to crank failure. Maybe the block pistons rods and heads are ok but they will need to be removed to clean everything else out and most recommend a new oil pump and modine too but the pump can be stripped and cleaned out if it is within tolerances.
If you have metal in the sump the motor will have to be totally stripped to clean the metal swarf from the oil ways etc anyway. Have a read through some of the project threads some guys there have/are in the process of full rebuilds due to crank failure. Maybe the block pistons rods and heads are ok but they will need to be removed to clean everything else out and most recommend a new oil pump and modine too but the pump can be stripped and cleaned out if it is within tolerances.
21 August 2008, 08:29 AM
#44
Drag it!
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Bearings are the thin metal strips.
Nuts and bolts are the rod bolts
The other big chunk is part of the rod/rod cap
It's fecked, it needs a full strip down and clean/possible scrap depending on damage to the bore.
When you over rev, aside from the cambelt possibly jumping and piston to valve interference, the main issue is the rod bolts get stretched, once stretched its a question of WHEN they fail, not IF
The OEM ones will tend to go quicker than say the ones on a forged build, but even they fail (personal experience). I have since fitted uprated rod bolts in mine, but they arent cheap.
Nuts and bolts are the rod bolts
The other big chunk is part of the rod/rod cap
It's fecked, it needs a full strip down and clean/possible scrap depending on damage to the bore.
When you over rev, aside from the cambelt possibly jumping and piston to valve interference, the main issue is the rod bolts get stretched, once stretched its a question of WHEN they fail, not IF
The OEM ones will tend to go quicker than say the ones on a forged build, but even they fail (personal experience). I have since fitted uprated rod bolts in mine, but they arent cheap.
21 August 2008, 08:53 AM
#45
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Yeah she’s a goner 
full rebuild I’m afraid you will have to get her totally stripped to see the full damage but I would be suppressed if the block is ok with a rod braking see the above pictures
full rebuild I’m afraid you will have to get her totally stripped to see the full damage but I would be suppressed if the block is ok with a rod braking see the above pictures
We have 3 do nothing else but build Subaru engine technicians. Quick is our middle name..............
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