I would agree that low 400's is deemed as OK these days.
I'm guilty of pushing a standard engine too. I ran a stock EJ257 @ 452 bhp with a rotated GT30R setup. I didn't even change the map from a 2.0L VF28 map i just upped the pressure on the reg and monitored knock and temps etc.

But that was a non tuner induced decision and if it went **** up i would of only had myself to blame Fortunately I got away with it. I'm sure you saw the bollocking ( rightly so in retrospect) I got from Pat over on 22b lol.

 

Rich,
Slight overkill for the level that I'm running at, admittedly - especially the billett crank, but it's designed to be a very usable road car that can also hoon around a track for extended lengths of time - some of the spec from the RCM invoice below:

SPE78 RCM EXHAUST MANIFOLD
STU72 HYBRID GARRET GT35P20 VF TURBO
SPE378 740CC INJECTORS
RCM158 FUEL PRES REGULATOR
SHO32 INDUCTION HOSE 76MM
RCM26 ALUMINIUM TRUMPET
RCM01 K&N FILTER
SSE47 UPRATED SPARK PLUG
DEFI 60MM DEFI BOOST GAUGE KIT
DEFI 60MM DEFI OIL PRESSURE
DEFI 60MM FUEL PRESSURE
DEFI 60MM EXHAUST GUAGE
DEFI 60MM OIL TEMP GAUGE
SPE392 GAUGE PILLAR POD
DEFI CONTROL CONTROL BOX II
SPE354 UPRATED FUEL PUMP
RCM328 OPEN NECK DOWNPIPE 3"
RCM224 INDUCTION HOSE 4 TRUMPET
RCM117 OMEGA PISTON HIGH COMP
SEN38 PISTON RING SET
SEN13 MODIFIED OIL PUMP
RCM234 UPRATED DUMP VALVE
RCM346 RCMS WRC H SECTION CONROD
RCM133 RCMS WRC BILLET CRANKSHAFT
SEN34 MAIN BRG SET MODIFIED
SEN419 GPA BIG END BRG SET
RCM232 KNOCK LINK DISPLAY
RCM233 KNOCK LINK SENSOR
RCM296 MOTEC ECU
RCM287 MOTEC LOGGING MEMORY
RCM354 CAN ADAPTER
RCM164 3 BAR MAP SENSOR
RCM363 3 PORT BOOST SOLENOID
SPE327 APS FRONT MOUNTED COOLER
SEN151 LH CYLINDER HEAD
SEN228 RH CYLINDER HEAD
SEN BLOCK PAIR
SPE377 JUN HIGH LIFT CAM KIT
RCM130 RCM 4.7 KG FLYWHEEL
SCL08 AP RACING CLUTCH KIT
SCL03 CLUTCH RELEASE BRG
SPE269 RCM 3" EXHAUST SYSTEM (Loud)
SEN440 DEFI BLOCK ADAPTER
RCM127 ALLOY PULLEY KIT BLUE
SPE233 VERNIER CAM PULLEY
RCM393 OIL CATCH TANK


Matt and Olly actually put this together for another P1 owner originally around 3 years ago, but he needed to raise some cash so we swapped my 330bhp ecutek P1 engine for his and some cash so that he could sell a "standard" P1.He did 2k running it in and 1k on the road but it basically lived at Matt and Olly's until I took it on. Nice engine, but I'm thinking of getting the quieter RCM 3" centre section as it's very noisy on a run and it sets off all track sound meters...and would cause the Ring stewards to self combust!

 

See post 7 by me....

I have my car mapped by Bob Rawle on OEM internals with a variety of mods running .........402 BHP

Class !!

Shaun

 

Hi all
I have a classic 97 uk turbo i have put a vf35 on it running 550cc magnicor leads manifold spacers k&n silicon inlet and most pipes de cat exhaust big alloy rad twin kenlow hibrid fmic syntec fuel pressure reg No7 bliz plugs apexi ecu exceedy racing clutch tein super street with top mounts 18 prodrive aloys with 225 toyo R888 whiteline roll bars silly little breaks that i was advised to have by NO RULE RACING running 324bhp @.85bar and was told to get a avc-r and then i can get 1.6bar with an estimateted 380bhp all on standard internals with 135000 miles on it and touch wood its runs great its just my track car and has done many days since i had it 18 months now.

I also no its only a matter of time before the big bang then im off to slowboy for the daddy of engins 2.33 i want 600bhp i no im mad

 

nice but wrong thread

 

Is that from a recognised Dyno or Bob's extrapolating DeltaDash figures?

What were the wheel figures?

I wouldnt want to go above 400 bhp on a std engine. (and didnt)

Strapping a turbo on that is capable of a lot more than the engine is, as daz said, a recipe for getting greedy and blowing it up. You will want more than the 1.2 or whatever that it is mapped for.

What happens if the wastegate sticks or the turbo creeps a little ...

Get the foundations right first IMO or set yourself a limit of 400 bhp (ish).

OP - have you driven a 400bhp car on the road?

 

but wasnt your a 2.5?

i believe the 2.0 sti are stronger (mine hasnt gone bang.................yet )

 

doh .... cursed it now

 

if it goes, it goes.

 

Peak power on a standard engine is only part of the story. It's fairly easy to reach peak figures with the right turbo, but when you take intended use in to the equation things can get expensive and unreliable. Anxillaries to enhance reliability can get expensive.

Mileage is irrelevant to a degree..... type of use during that mileage is most definately relevant. I know of a standard JDM Spec C bottom end that had Cosworth Heads / Cams, coupled with a GT spec rotated turbo. 450bhp and it grenaded itself with hard track use in a very short space of time (even with uprated anxillaries).

Do it once... do it right!

 

All my ancilliaries have been chosen for when i do rebuild/replace the motor.

May aswell see what the standard can do first.

 

If you do shaft a standard engine with a nice expensive big shiny powerful new turbo chances are your nice expensive big shiny new turbo will be scrap after the event. Then, you'll be wishing you'd listened to those of us that have been there done that and wish they'd listened to people who told them the same thing years ago.

 

Are you saying that when the engine goes, it will destroy the turbo?

The turbo has been on the motor for over a year now.

 

It could do, I had a piston break apart which happened at circa 8,000 rpm.

Where do you think all the bits went? Out the exhaust valves, up the up pipe and through the exhaust turbine which was rotating at silly rpm.
Result? Not one unbroken untouched exhaust turbine blade. = Turbo was scrap!!

 

Ouch!

 

as you say "it could do" but that isnt a definite.



was that with your unmapped engine?

 

You're right its not definite but its certainly more likely to happen on an engine with standard internals. It's also a bit of an **** about face way of doing things.

As said so many times the proper way to do things is to build a stong engine then go for power.

As for the unmapped engine no it wasn't. That survived to tell the tale. Ironically all the enginess that have let go on me are ones that I haven't built.
I'm sure I'll regret saying that at some point

 

My original intention was not to push mine as far as we have, but then discussions took place and the rest they say is history.

8000rpm?

 

Ok so iv'e got my new turbo, how hard is it to fit want to have a go myself, iv'e fitted the fmic,fpr and uprated pump,think i could do the turbo but any advice pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance Rob

 

If you have a six speed you might have to grind away some of the gearbox housing to aid fitment. Other than that it's reasonably straight forward, take your time and don't rush. Double check everything before and after starting the car. Especially for oil and water leaks.

 

same goes for a 5 speed

I found the turbo a pig to fit the first time due to the inlet pipe being so squashed against the manifold - This was the first turbo I had ever fit and I did manage in the end with a few scared nuckles

vf35 turbo was a dream to fit in comparison

Rich