snow nearly killed me
03 February 2009, 11:04 PM
#31
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Glossop
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Loose the ABS fuse too!
There's nothing worse than your brake pedal laughing at you when you're about to hit something
Impreza + Snow + ABS = Bus pass.
As already said, if there's no traction, AWD is about as much use as a chocolate Fireman.
There's nothing worse than your brake pedal laughing at you when you're about to hit something
Impreza + Snow + ABS = Bus pass.
As already said, if there's no traction, AWD is about as much use as a chocolate Fireman.
03 February 2009, 11:10 PM
#32
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I put some snow tires on that we had from when we imported a Type R for a friend, made the world of difference, managed to tow a RWD Scorpio up a huge hill! Spent the rest of the night going sideways there was absolutely no one about apart from the 4 x 4 boys sporting snow chains, gits 
03 February 2009, 11:20 PM
#33
I left the scoob in the garage today, and went out in my offroading Land rover instead, with it's mud tyres, and no traction control/.abs, i think i had the best vehicle for the conditions...... i went to a local beauty spot to take some snow pics, and the only vehicles there were 4wds......
03 February 2009, 11:35 PM
#36
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vredestein have the Quatrac range that make a great deal of sense for the UK. They maybe not ideal suited to very high performance cars and are a bit of a compromise but then things often are.
Vredestein
Vredestein
04 February 2009, 08:41 AM
#38
Scooby Senior
There is no point fitting snow tyres, that would be ridiculous in the UK with no more than a few snow days a year! You should be fitting WINTER TYRES not snow tyres or summer tyres! Winter tyres will improve grip for the whole of the winter, not just in snow!
04 February 2009, 08:48 AM
#39
04 February 2009, 08:48 AM
#40
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
Posts: 18,687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The problem is people seem to regard AWD as a get out of jail free card. As people have repeatedly pointed out above: big fat summer tyres don't work well on snow/ice. Period. Forget your AWD, forget your diffs etc...
People also simply fail to adjust their driving style/speed for the conditions. You have to take it very steady and use slow, smooth and progressive inputs and allow much bigger stopping distances; some seem incapable of doing this!
They then wonder why they come a cropper and blame the car. Truth is, more often than not, they need to look in the mirror.
Ns04
People also simply fail to adjust their driving style/speed for the conditions. You have to take it very steady and use slow, smooth and progressive inputs and allow much bigger stopping distances; some seem incapable of doing this!
They then wonder why they come a cropper and blame the car. Truth is, more often than not, they need to look in the mirror.
Ns04
04 February 2009, 10:36 AM
#43
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Snow tyres for the win
YouTube - Toy Tuning Scooby Wagon Snow Drifting!
Last edited by Monky; 04 February 2009 at 10:40 AM.
04 February 2009, 11:14 AM
#46
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll second that, snow doesn't damage cars peoples driving does. I drove over 60 miles Sunday night in Blizzards and over half a foot of snow was a great night, so surreal when the snow is untouched. Just a bit of basic common sense is needed and some driving prowess.
Last edited by Monky; 04 February 2009 at 11:16 AM.
04 February 2009, 11:19 AM
#47
Opps.
Best way to drive in the snow is to drive like the brakes don't work (so don't bother using them); i.e don't get up to a speed where you can't coast to a stop in the clear distance you can see ahead of you. On compacted and frozen snow that can be well over 100yards at 15mph, double or even quadruple that if its down a hill.
Also avoid using first gear and keep well below 2000rpm (or even below 1500rpm if its a torquey engine); otherwise excessive engine braking will get the car into huge trouble when the driver starts to lift off the throttle by the smallest amount.
Slowing right down to a slow walking pace (i.e slower than you will walk) a few hundred yards before performing any form of maneuver on sheer ice or compacted snow, be it cornering, going down a hill or before coming to a junction. Double, or quadruple (or more) that distance if its really bad.
Put it this way, if the car is doing 3mph when it hits something, the damage is going to be a slightly bent inner bumper and cracked/scuffed paint or scuffed wheel. Hit something at 10mph and it'll look like the picture above or a bent suspension arm/wheel. So the onus is not to crash at anything above 5mph. And that is simply done by slowing to a snails crawl well before needing to stop or negotiate a bend (or steer round abandoned cars ).
Best way to drive in the snow is to drive like the brakes don't work (so don't bother using them); i.e don't get up to a speed where you can't coast to a stop in the clear distance you can see ahead of you. On compacted and frozen snow that can be well over 100yards at 15mph, double or even quadruple that if its down a hill.
Also avoid using first gear and keep well below 2000rpm (or even below 1500rpm if its a torquey engine); otherwise excessive engine braking will get the car into huge trouble when the driver starts to lift off the throttle by the smallest amount.
Slowing right down to a slow walking pace (i.e slower than you will walk) a few hundred yards before performing any form of maneuver on sheer ice or compacted snow, be it cornering, going down a hill or before coming to a junction. Double, or quadruple (or more) that distance if its really bad.
Put it this way, if the car is doing 3mph when it hits something, the damage is going to be a slightly bent inner bumper and cracked/scuffed paint or scuffed wheel. Hit something at 10mph and it'll look like the picture above or a bent suspension arm/wheel. So the onus is not to crash at anything above 5mph. And that is simply done by slowing to a snails crawl well before needing to stop or negotiate a bend (or steer round abandoned cars
).
05 February 2009, 03:54 AM
#48
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sheffield; Rome of the North
Posts: 17,582
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05 February 2009, 04:22 AM
#49
BANNED
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ginge ur post #18/ going side ways 4x4 helps on the snow!!!! crap the other day i turned right out of my road and the car slid into a kurb (low impact) put my tracking out by 1mm, i was very lucky. I feel for those who had been a victim to this crappy weather. just remember next time leave da car at home :-)
05 February 2009, 07:08 AM
#50
Ginge ur post #18/ going side ways 4x4 helps on the snow!!!! crap the other day i turned right out of my road and the car slid into a kurb (low impact) put my tracking out by 1mm, i was very lucky. I feel for those who had been a victim to this crappy weather. just remember next time leave da car at home :-)
no going sideways would have helped better then sliding in a straight line as i would have has some sort of control, even just a little
05 February 2009, 10:36 AM
#54
Scooby Regular
I've been ok out there, I'm fairly used to crap weather though as I used to live in Scotchland Sideways is not so hard to control (as long as you're not doing silly speeds
) just pop a bit of power down and it works fine for me! I'd agree, stopping on black ice in a straight line can be a bit tricky but it's all about sensible judgement of conditions and driving to suit, blah blah blah.
A mate of mine (in a proper off roader) was driving in to work the other day when it first snowed and was following a queue of 5 or so cars when a tool in a Porsche Cayenne decided that his car was too awesome for the conditions, floored it passed them all at 50/60mph and on the next corner he bounced off a coupla curbs and then took a trip into some woods
05 February 2009, 12:00 PM
#55
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: The Terry Crews of moderation. P P P P P P POWER!!
Posts: 18,687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Opps.
Best way to drive in the snow is to drive like the brakes don't work (so don't bother using them); i.e don't get up to a speed where you can't coast to a stop in the clear distance you can see ahead of you. On compacted and frozen snow that can be well over 100yards at 15mph, double or even quadruple that if its down a hill.
Also avoid using first gear and keep well below 2000rpm (or even below 1500rpm if its a torquey engine); otherwise excessive engine braking will get the car into huge trouble when the driver starts to lift off the throttle by the smallest amount.
Slowing right down to a slow walking pace (i.e slower than you will walk) a few hundred yards before performing any form of maneuver on sheer ice or compacted snow, be it cornering, going down a hill or before coming to a junction. Double, or quadruple (or more) that distance if its really bad.
Put it this way, if the car is doing 3mph when it hits something, the damage is going to be a slightly bent inner bumper and cracked/scuffed paint or scuffed wheel. Hit something at 10mph and it'll look like the picture above or a bent suspension arm/wheel. So the onus is not to crash at anything above 5mph. And that is simply done by slowing to a snails crawl well before needing to stop or negotiate a bend (or steer round abandoned cars ).
Best way to drive in the snow is to drive like the brakes don't work (so don't bother using them); i.e don't get up to a speed where you can't coast to a stop in the clear distance you can see ahead of you. On compacted and frozen snow that can be well over 100yards at 15mph, double or even quadruple that if its down a hill.
Also avoid using first gear and keep well below 2000rpm (or even below 1500rpm if its a torquey engine); otherwise excessive engine braking will get the car into huge trouble when the driver starts to lift off the throttle by the smallest amount.
Slowing right down to a slow walking pace (i.e slower than you will walk) a few hundred yards before performing any form of maneuver on sheer ice or compacted snow, be it cornering, going down a hill or before coming to a junction. Double, or quadruple (or more) that distance if its really bad.
Put it this way, if the car is doing 3mph when it hits something, the damage is going to be a slightly bent inner bumper and cracked/scuffed paint or scuffed wheel. Hit something at 10mph and it'll look like the picture above or a bent suspension arm/wheel. So the onus is not to crash at anything above 5mph. And that is simply done by slowing to a snails crawl well before needing to stop or negotiate a bend (or steer round abandoned cars
).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
crazyspeedfreakz
Wanted
17
05 October 2015 07:19 PM
oilman
Trader Announcements
15
01 October 2015 11:55 AM