crankshaft??
10 February 2009, 10:55 PM
#31
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Well said that man!
Dave - if you like spending money, fit the reground crank, then do the same job again in a few weeks with a second hand crank, then third time lucky with a new one.. job jobbed!
Dave - if you like spending money, fit the reground crank, then do the same job again in a few weeks with a second hand crank, then third time lucky with a new one.. job jobbed!
11 February 2009, 12:31 AM
#33
I'm not being funny here mate and hopefully I'll come across as the voice of reason.
You've asked what you should do. Lots have people have given you the same answer i.e buy a new crank. Yet you still ask the same question.
Do yourself a favour, heed the advice of the people that know best and buy a new crank.
If you don't you'll f*ck your engine up again and be in the same boat in a couple of weeks time and even shorter of cash than you are now.
Do it properly and buy a brand new crank and bearings.
If you don't you'll only have yourself to blame when it goes belly up.
I'll be the first to say I told you so.
Sorry to be blunt mate but you're just not listening. Just because its nit the answer you wanted to hear doesn't mean people are going to stop saying it.
If anyone advises you to use a reground or a used crank then get them to pay for it and give them the money back after say 5000miles. I don't think you'd get that with a crank that is anything but new.
hopefully the message has finally sunk in.
BUY A NEW CRANK!!!!!
You've asked what you should do. Lots have people have given you the same answer i.e buy a new crank. Yet you still ask the same question.
Do yourself a favour, heed the advice of the people that know best and buy a new crank.
If you don't you'll f*ck your engine up again and be in the same boat in a couple of weeks time and even shorter of cash than you are now.
Do it properly and buy a brand new crank and bearings.
If you don't you'll only have yourself to blame when it goes belly up.
I'll be the first to say I told you so.
Sorry to be blunt mate but you're just not listening. Just because its nit the answer you wanted to hear doesn't mean people are going to stop saying it.
If anyone advises you to use a reground or a used crank then get them to pay for it and give them the money back after say 5000miles. I don't think you'd get that with a crank that is anything but new.
hopefully the message has finally sunk in.
BUY A NEW CRANK!!!!!
11 February 2009, 12:52 AM
#35
I'm sure it is mate, been in the same boat several times, hence my build taking over a year so far.
Look at it another way. If you do go for this crank and it fails you'll not only have to buy the crank that you should have bought in the first place but you'll also have to pay for all new seals and gaskets again plus the labour again.
It's a no brainer mate. If you don't buy a new crank it will cost you a whole lot more in the long run.
Look at it another way. If you do go for this crank and it fails you'll not only have to buy the crank that you should have bought in the first place but you'll also have to pay for all new seals and gaskets again plus the labour again.
It's a no brainer mate. If you don't buy a new crank it will cost you a whole lot more in the long run.
11 February 2009, 01:45 AM
#37
The engine shop will grind your crank simply because they have the equipment to do it and you gave them a worn crank that should have been binned; They have no concerns over how long it will last, as chances are it WILL last long enough so that failure cannot be attributed to excess journal wear; i.e not their problem (if it was, they wouldn't do it).
The issue of regrinding is the same with grinding Jag AJ16 engine cranks; its just simply not done, which is why you cannot obtain oversize bearings from reputable manufacturers. As the journals are nitrided to harden the surfaces. Once reground they need nitriding again to restore the surface hardness.
I belive the oversize bearing for the EJ20 engine is only meant to be used in the low powered non-turbo engines. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I cannot see any other legitimate reason as to why OS bearing are obtainable for a surface hardened crank in full knowledge that grinding removes the hardened layer.
The bottom line is how long do you want the engine to last between rebuilds?? If its a race/track/rally/hillclimb car thats not running too much BHP where you intend to rebuild every season or yearly, by all means use a ground crank and run a thick 15w-50 oil.
But if you want a road engine to last 100,000miles or to sustain high BHP for longer, (can't have both
) bin that old crank.
The issue of regrinding is the same with grinding Jag AJ16 engine cranks; its just simply not done, which is why you cannot obtain oversize bearings from reputable manufacturers. As the journals are nitrided to harden the surfaces. Once reground they need nitriding again to restore the surface hardness.
I belive the oversize bearing for the EJ20 engine is only meant to be used in the low powered non-turbo engines. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I cannot see any other legitimate reason as to why OS bearing are obtainable for a surface hardened crank in full knowledge that grinding removes the hardened layer.
The bottom line is how long do you want the engine to last between rebuilds?? If its a race/track/rally/hillclimb car thats not running too much BHP where you intend to rebuild every season or yearly, by all means use a ground crank and run a thick 15w-50 oil.
But if you want a road engine to last 100,000miles or to sustain high BHP for longer, (can't have both
) bin that old crank.
Last edited by ALi-B; 11 February 2009 at 01:48 AM.
11 February 2009, 12:36 PM
#39
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cheers im pretty sure that if its on the piston end it is possible to change from underneath although i would still probably take engine out and replace all the gaskets and seals anyway as a lot of people have basically said if you want the job done do it right first time or it will cost you more in the long run.
11 February 2009, 01:20 PM
#40
cheers im pretty sure that if its on the piston end it is possible to change from underneath although i would still probably take engine out and replace all the gaskets and seals anyway as a lot of people have basically said if you want the job done do it right first time or it will cost you more in the long run.
.
11 February 2009, 04:00 PM
#44
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11 February 2009, 05:25 PM
#45
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So one person turns out lucky and I get told I don't know what I am talking about........
Work on this principle every time:
There's never enough money to do it right, but there's always enough money to do it twice.
David - don'tknownuffin APi
11 February 2009, 05:39 PM
#48
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mind you he has got a "BIG TURBO" lol
13 February 2009, 07:24 PM
#51
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We'll what ever your opinions it worked for me
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