08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
#6721
and better miles per gallon when i am not in cruise control
i get 25.8 MPG
i always use the diff in auto and have never came off the road
so i am not going to mess with that when driving normally
i have used the diff lock in the snow as i live on a massive hill to get to the top then its back in auto
i have never switched off the other thing picture with car and lines on
Last edited by Rocket launcher; 23 January 2012 at 09:54 AM.
#6722
Scooby Senior
i get better miles per gallon in S than i do in I mode
and better miles per gallon when i am not in cruise control
i get 25.8 MPG
i always use the diff in auto and have never came off the road
so i am not going to mess with that when driving normally
i have used the diff lock in the snow as i live on a massive hill to get to the top then its back in auto
i have never switched off the other thing picture with car and lines on
and better miles per gallon when i am not in cruise control
i get 25.8 MPG
i always use the diff in auto and have never came off the road
so i am not going to mess with that when driving normally
i have used the diff lock in the snow as i live on a massive hill to get to the top then its back in auto
i have never switched off the other thing picture with car and lines on
#6723
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
i get better miles per gallon in S than i do in I mode
and better miles per gallon when i am not in cruise control
i get 25.8 MPG
i always use the diff in auto and have never came off the road
so i am not going to mess with that when driving normally
i have used the diff lock in the snow as i live on a massive hill to get to the top then its back in auto
i have never switched off the other thing picture with car and lines on
and better miles per gallon when i am not in cruise control
i get 25.8 MPG
i always use the diff in auto and have never came off the road
so i am not going to mess with that when driving normally
i have used the diff lock in the snow as i live on a massive hill to get to the top then its back in auto
i have never switched off the other thing picture with car and lines on
i get better mpg's in S# mode then S which is better then I mode
i think this is because it works harder to keep at a constant speed
I always drive in S# mode with manual rear diff
#6725
Scooby Senior
like to switch the **** to get an extra boost from S to S# mode. being in S# mode all the time I'd have a bad neck lol
#6729
Yep before I had mine mapped it was always more economical in s# mode and I think it still is. I think it has to do with the throttle response rather than the map and I think that once the throttle response is set free in s# mode it makes the throttle more linear and smoother at the lower rev range hence the higher mpg, that's my take on it anyhow
#6730
new headunit fitted
My wifey bought me a new Jvc headunit for xmas, fitted at the weekend
AVX840 - http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/product.php?pr=346
i bought the following connects2 wiring :
http://www.online-caraudio.co.uk/sho...ng-998318.html
&
http://www.online-caraudio.co.uk/sho...ad-996744.html
and to have it look nice in the dash :
http://www.online-caraudio.co.uk/sho...e-1001022.html
The old fascia is easily removed by levering at the bottom where there are 2 small notches, allowing you to lever the fascia off using something plastic prefereably.
HU is held in place by 4 screws. And on the non-nav unit like mine, there are 4 connections, the large white comnnector block, smaller 8 pin aux-in block, earth lead and aerial.
I used the 2 mounting brackets off the old HU which screw into the sides of the new HU, i did need to drill new holes in the mounting brackets to get it to sit back a little further for a flush look in the dash.
The air vent that sits below the HU is best removed to give plenty of room to work in.
I connected all the wiring, except for the small 8 pin white block which isnt needed. I routed the rear USB into the glove box, out of site, and the external mic sits on top of the steering column just behind the steering wheel.
The wire from the HU marked "parking brake " was earthed to allow use of the screen function without the handbrake on.
Theres enough room to fit all the wires back in without too much trouble.
There are 6 yellow plastic bits on the clips that hold the fascia securely in place that need to transferred to the new fascia, also the air vent control just clips into the new fascia.
Sound quality is a vast improvement over stock unit with the stock speakers.
Bluetooth works well, just need to work out how to transfer my contacts from my iphone.
At the moment , the steering wheel controls don't work, but as i'm typing the engineer from connects2 has phoned to say that if the connections between the harness/patchlead/HU and car are not made in the correct order, then the controls default to blaupunkt !! So, when i have an hour, i'll take it out and reconnect in the order given to me, update to follow on that !!
AVX840 - http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/product.php?pr=346
i bought the following connects2 wiring :
http://www.online-caraudio.co.uk/sho...ng-998318.html
&
http://www.online-caraudio.co.uk/sho...ad-996744.html
and to have it look nice in the dash :
http://www.online-caraudio.co.uk/sho...e-1001022.html
The old fascia is easily removed by levering at the bottom where there are 2 small notches, allowing you to lever the fascia off using something plastic prefereably.
HU is held in place by 4 screws. And on the non-nav unit like mine, there are 4 connections, the large white comnnector block, smaller 8 pin aux-in block, earth lead and aerial.
I used the 2 mounting brackets off the old HU which screw into the sides of the new HU, i did need to drill new holes in the mounting brackets to get it to sit back a little further for a flush look in the dash.
The air vent that sits below the HU is best removed to give plenty of room to work in.
I connected all the wiring, except for the small 8 pin white block which isnt needed. I routed the rear USB into the glove box, out of site, and the external mic sits on top of the steering column just behind the steering wheel.
The wire from the HU marked "parking brake " was earthed to allow use of the screen function without the handbrake on.
Theres enough room to fit all the wires back in without too much trouble.
There are 6 yellow plastic bits on the clips that hold the fascia securely in place that need to transferred to the new fascia, also the air vent control just clips into the new fascia.
Sound quality is a vast improvement over stock unit with the stock speakers.
Bluetooth works well, just need to work out how to transfer my contacts from my iphone.
At the moment , the steering wheel controls don't work, but as i'm typing the engineer from connects2 has phoned to say that if the connections between the harness/patchlead/HU and car are not made in the correct order, then the controls default to blaupunkt !! So, when i have an hour, i'll take it out and reconnect in the order given to me, update to follow on that !!
#6731
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Looks good, now it's ages since I changed my HU over but I'm sure the small white block was needed and it may possibly have been for the steering controls, will try to find my post on the hatch forum.
#6732
Scooby Senior
Well I've had a cal today to say my warranty claim on the HU has been approved by subaru so now waiting for the HU to come from Kenwood in Belgium :-)
#6733
The small block is for aux in, the steering wheel controls are via pin 4 and 14 in the large block, if you take out the small connector from the stock HU the steering wheel controls still work !!
#6735
Scooby Senior
Well you already know of one thats being replaced
#6737
Scooby Senior
MOT passed late afternoon today.
Insurance with Keith Michaels paid for yeaterday.. Tnx Gary, £520 FCpNCD. £350xs.. covering all the extras like4like.. (wheels/proR filter)
Insurance with Keith Michaels paid for yeaterday.. Tnx Gary, £520 FCpNCD. £350xs.. covering all the extras like4like.. (wheels/proR filter)
#6738
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Berkshire
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That old devil called oil consumption
Guys,
I'm seeing oil consumption fluctuate from 1ltr per 5000 miles to about 1ltr per 1000. Car is warned through before s# is clicked on. Dealer tells me it s within tolerance, but judging by the state of my exhaust and frequent trips to Halfords for more synth, I am beginning to worry.
Car has 36000miles on an 09 plate, with the PPP,so an alleged 330bhp and I took are to run it I as per the book. Should I be more insistent with the dealer to get it checked out or is it really normal?
I'm seeing oil consumption fluctuate from 1ltr per 5000 miles to about 1ltr per 1000. Car is warned through before s# is clicked on. Dealer tells me it s within tolerance, but judging by the state of my exhaust and frequent trips to Halfords for more synth, I am beginning to worry.
Car has 36000miles on an 09 plate, with the PPP,so an alleged 330bhp and I took are to run it I as per the book. Should I be more insistent with the dealer to get it checked out or is it really normal?
#6739
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Guys,
I'm seeing oil consumption fluctuate from 1ltr per 5000 miles to about 1ltr per 1000. Car is warned through before s# is clicked on. Dealer tells me it s within tolerance, but judging by the state of my exhaust and frequent trips to Halfords for more synth, I am beginning to worry.
Car has 36000miles on an 09 plate, with the PPP,so an alleged 330bhp and I took are to run it I as per the book. Should I be more insistent with the dealer to get it checked out or is it really normal?
I'm seeing oil consumption fluctuate from 1ltr per 5000 miles to about 1ltr per 1000. Car is warned through before s# is clicked on. Dealer tells me it s within tolerance, but judging by the state of my exhaust and frequent trips to Halfords for more synth, I am beginning to worry.
Car has 36000miles on an 09 plate, with the PPP,so an alleged 330bhp and I took are to run it I as per the book. Should I be more insistent with the dealer to get it checked out or is it really normal?
But you state you were previously using 1ltr per 5000 miles I could be under the opinion there is another issue.
Have your dealer carry out a compression test on the vehicle they are typically anywere around the 135 psi marker if any cylinder is noted lower than 105psi then your starting with issues.
The compression test will however cost you an hours labour charge initially as it will not be a warranty issue unless one pressure is down considerably.
#6742
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Well looks like mines is giving up the ghost! Checked my oil yesterday before driving up to Aberdeen no oil on the dip stick. Put a litre in just on the tip, put another half in before the journey back on the bottom again.
Service due next week so will ask for a check on the old lump. Great timing as well as the funds are tied up in a deposit for a new house.
Service due next week so will ask for a check on the old lump. Great timing as well as the funds are tied up in a deposit for a new house.
#6743
Scooby Senior
Paul, you have PM
#6745
Scooby Senior
no problem.
come you 330s owners.. put your names down...
https://www.scoobynet.com/group.php?groupid=69
come you 330s owners.. put your names down...
https://www.scoobynet.com/group.php?groupid=69
#6746
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hilltop
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no problem.
come you 330s owners.. put your names down...
https://www.scoobynet.com/group.php?groupid=69
come you 330s owners.. put your names down...
https://www.scoobynet.com/group.php?groupid=69
#6747
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Well looks like mines is giving up the ghost! Checked my oil yesterday before driving up to Aberdeen no oil on the dip stick. Put a litre in just on the tip, put another half in before the journey back on the bottom again.
Service due next week so will ask for a check on the old lump. Great timing as well as the funds are tied up in a deposit for a new house.
Service due next week so will ask for a check on the old lump. Great timing as well as the funds are tied up in a deposit for a new house.
Shame your not more local to carlisle mate i'd have done a check on it for you