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Old 07 August 2012, 01:01 AM
  #8371  
Imy877
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Originally Posted by vulnax999
Not good to mix viscosities, or brands.
I only drove it 8 miles thankfully. Hopefully this won't have done any damage. Good response from Opie Oils; they are sending me another batch of the correct oil, should be here today so will change it later. I actually had a spare genuine black oil filter that was used with the wrong oil, will have to use the UFI replacement one I have now.
Old 07 August 2012, 08:13 AM
  #8372  
Burnett
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Can anyone tell me if these fit the hatch

http://www.cdfracing.co.uk/product_i...pmlc53necj5dr1
Old 07 August 2012, 09:00 PM
  #8373  
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Question :

Looks like my n/s headlamp, the main bit, has moisture on the inside! ( side light part fine! )
Any one had this problem before, and what can I do about it???

Cheers

V
Old 08 August 2012, 02:19 AM
  #8374  
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Originally Posted by vulnax999
Question :

Looks like my n/s headlamp, the main bit, has moisture on the inside! ( side light part fine! )
Any one had this problem before, and what can I do about it???

Cheers

V
Had the same problem on my off side one. After a few months the headlight stopped working because of the water that was getting in and settling on the ballast at the bottom of the headlight (crap design!). In the end I found a second hand unit on eBay for £90 delivered inc a ballast and bulbs etc.

I had removed the headlight twice and sealed the edges with silicon and glue but the problem still kept coming back so no idea where the water was coming from. My next option was to try and get hold of some stronger bonding glue from somewhere but the headlight came up cheap and I was fed up of having to remove the bumper each time to try and fix it.

You could just unscrew the lid at the rear and heat up the front with a hair dryer, that will get it clear but not a long term fix. Apparently those silica gel packs will take the moisture out if you can place them inside the back of the headlight somewhere.

Im assuming you're out of warranty?

Last edited by Imy877; 08 August 2012 at 02:21 AM. Reason: Typo
Old 08 August 2012, 12:47 PM
  #8375  
vulnax999
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Cheers.

Warranty until Sept this year, so add it onto the 3 year service work I think!
Old 09 August 2012, 08:07 PM
  #8376  
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Hi everyone. I'm new here.

Here's my previous car - a Mazda 3 MPS which was modified to 330bhp with bilstein and whiteline handling upgrades amongst a few thousand pounds worth of other bits.

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I'm now the proud owner of this STI hatch. 14k on the clock when I bought it

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Modifications so far are a cobrasport catted down pipe, prodrive cat back exhaust, k&n panel filter in air box and a remap by slowboy racing.

Quick question - the remap was done on the road (I assume a base map followed by some live tweaks) as slowboy racing don't have a rolling road. I therefore have no printout figures. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what sort of power/torque figures should be anticipated with these modifications?

Many thanks
Old 09 August 2012, 08:13 PM
  #8377  
rob84
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Looking around 350-360 bhp and around 370-390 ft/lbs with those mods
Old 09 August 2012, 08:14 PM
  #8378  
Tommy2396
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Welcome mate

You'll be looking round anything between 330-350 bhp / 365-380 lbs
Old 09 August 2012, 08:28 PM
  #8379  
staccato
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ok thanks. With the STI hatch, is there a kind of suggested limit of the standard air box? With my Mazda it was suggested that the air box was awful and replace it with short ram or cold air intake immediately. Yet I've owned a vectra vxr where tuners said the standard airbox with a cotton filter is fine up to 400bhp. Is there a similar theory with the STI?
Old 09 August 2012, 09:03 PM
  #8380  
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IMO not really, any gain with estimate max 5-10bhp the important thing to remember any slight mods like caik and exhaust is to get the car remapped to suit.
Old 09 August 2012, 09:45 PM
  #8381  
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The intake system on the hatch is known to be a little restrictive above 370, AEM CAIK is the best bit of kit for an intake
Old 09 August 2012, 09:49 PM
  #8382  
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Had my hatch remapped in Indigo GT last week following fitting of full cobra exhaust (unreasonated with sports cat - 3inch straight ) and forge induction kit. It made 360 on the rolling road.
Old 09 August 2012, 09:49 PM
  #8383  
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Excellent thanks for the replies. So currently the car can suck in the air it needs and there wouldn't be a need to replaced. That's what I was hoping.
Old 10 August 2012, 07:46 AM
  #8384  
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Nice car Tommy!
Old 10 August 2012, 08:05 AM
  #8385  
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welcome along.
Old 10 August 2012, 08:48 PM
  #8386  
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Originally Posted by stevie1982
Replied . Thanks again
All done and dusted mate, Wrapped them this evening.

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Old 10 August 2012, 08:50 PM
  #8387  
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Originally Posted by vulnax999
Is that what we mortals would call the Lambda sensor Rob?

Does it still live in the downpipe / up-pipe?


Or am I totally off the ball here!

V
Yes it's a lambda sensor and lives in the collector pipe below the up-pipe

Fitted one last night & hell what a difference
Old 10 August 2012, 08:54 PM
  #8388  
staccato
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Can anyone tell me what insert seems to be missing from my centre console. It was like this when I bought it. There's an old sticky pad at the rear and on the sides there are two notches. I assume it should be a cup holder or something that clicks into place.

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Old 10 August 2012, 08:55 PM
  #8389  
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removable cup holder is missing
Old 10 August 2012, 08:56 PM
  #8390  
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Darn. Thought so thanks. Is it a part that can be purchased as a separate item?
Old 10 August 2012, 08:59 PM
  #8391  
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yes Item 7 part no 66155AG010
Old 10 August 2012, 09:02 PM
  #8392  
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excellent thanks
Old 10 August 2012, 11:32 PM
  #8393  
stevie1982
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Originally Posted by rob84
All done and dusted mate, Wrapped them this evening.


Rob your are a true gent and a better man than me as I just can't do it, I appreciate all your help so much, pm me your PayPal details and I will drop some beer tokens in it for you
Old 13 August 2012, 09:58 PM
  #8394  
staccato
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Double checked the airbox query with Crawford Performance and got two separate replies back:

Hey Ben!

Not sure if you've been responded to yet already or not however what we
recommend is simply changing the stock filter to a K&N drop in filter. It'll
give you more airflow and won't put a dent in your wallet. The OEM intake
box can handle anywhere from 380-400hp so at that point the next step is a
rotated turbo set up which would require the bigger cold air intake. If your
wagon is just a WRX a drop in K&N filter would suffice with whatever you did
unless you went rotated


Sincerely,

Marcos Padilla
Sales Manager
Crawford Performance
622 Airport Road
Oceanside, CA 92058
P: (760) 631-2927
F: (760) 439-2937
www.crawfordperformance.com
www.facebook.com/crawfordperformance

Yes, that is fine...

Removing the cat in the down pipe will give you the largest increase in
power. If you have remaped the ECU then you should have the same power
increase as the cold air intake will give you as all it does is change the
calibration of the MAP sensor.

Quirt Crawford
President / Owner
Crawford Performance
622 Airport Rd.
Oceanside, CA 92009
P: (760) 631-2927
F: (760) 439-2937
W: qcrawford@crawfordperformance.com
FB: facebook.com/CrawfordPerformance
Old 13 August 2012, 10:35 PM
  #8395  
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you've got to question that reply, why would you need a rotated setup above 400 ?? the std location with larger turbo can easily achieve 500bhp with a decent cold air induction kit without being rotated, Been proven far to many times on here, I've even built a few setup's myself
Old 13 August 2012, 11:12 PM
  #8396  
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Originally Posted by rob84
you've got to question that reply, why would you need a rotated setup above 400 ?? the std location with larger turbo can easily achieve 500bhp with a decent cold air induction kit without being rotated, Been proven far to many times on here, I've even built a few setup's myself
I agree. Each tuning company does seem to think it knows best though. I was more interested in confirming the standard capacity of the air box so as not to waste hundreds of pounds on an induction kit. Incidentally, Andy Forrest suggests the same so that's useful to know.
Old 14 August 2012, 05:13 PM
  #8397  
stevie1982
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guys i need a little help over the suspension on the Hatch. The car is due its 30k service so at the same time I was considering upgrading the suspension as I think it needs a little drop to sit just on the 19" GT2's and bring a bit more driver feel back in as we all know the hatch can feel a little light on the wheel

I didn't really want to go for coil overs due to the costs and I don't really think for a road car that they are "really" needed and at 2k plus for a good kit such as AST's I think it would be a waste for my intended use and driver ability etc. I know you can get cheaper kits like the BC stuff but I don't really trust the BC kits as I've seen to many post about the knocking after a short time.

So was looking for some input What are my options? i kind of guessed it boils down to Cross Roads and have them fit the PRO-R gear, Lichfield or power station.

was thinking of the PRO-R kit as I could have it fitted when I have the service done and have a few add on's like rear arb, possible bush kit or two, I would require your advice on what would be needed but I would still need a visit to Lichfield for the PAS mod and geo settings at an extra cost which leads me on to thinking of

Visiting someone like Lichfield and having them fit this below which I thought was well priced but would still be on the standard springs, could always have a set of the pro-r or eibach's fitted at the same time

HANDLING PACK - £695 INC. VAT
Uprated rear anti roll bar
Revised steering feel
4 Wheel laser alignment with fast road settings
Revised sub frame and chassis bush kit
Litchfield Front Strut Brace
Labour to install

Or finally power station who i know helped work on the type20 setup on the hatch (well according to the web page anyway) and have them fit either the stage 1 or 2 kit

Stage 1
Revised PAS Pump Valving
Front Anti Roll Bar
Rear Anti Roll Bar
(including reinforcing stays)
Powerflex Caster Kit
Steering Rack Bushes
4-Wheel Alignment
£595 + VAT

Stage 2
Eibach Lowering Springs
Revised PAS Pump Valving
Front Anti Roll Bar
Rear Anti Roll Bar
(including reinforcing stays)
Powerflex Caster Kit
Steering Rack Bushes
Rear Subframe Bush Kit
4-Wheel Alignment
£895 + VAT

open for any help or advise, regards
Old 14 August 2012, 06:28 PM
  #8398  
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Originally Posted by stevie1982
Rob your are a true gent and a better man than me as I just can't do it, I appreciate all your help so much, pm me your PayPal details and I will drop some beer tokens in it for you
Collected Via UPS this afternoon mate
Old 14 August 2012, 11:53 PM
  #8399  
Jakbull
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Originally Posted by stevie1982
guys i need a little help over the suspension on the Hatch. The car is due its 30k service so at the same time I was considering upgrading the suspension as I think it needs a little drop to sit just on the 19" GT2's and bring a bit more driver feel back in as we all know the hatch can feel a little light on the wheel

I didn't really want to go for coil overs due to the costs and I don't really think for a road car that they are "really" needed and at 2k plus for a good kit such as AST's I think it would be a waste for my intended use and driver ability etc. I know you can get cheaper kits like the BC stuff but I don't really trust the BC kits as I've seen to many post about the knocking after a short time.

So was looking for some input What are my options? i kind of guessed it boils down to Cross Roads and have them fit the PRO-R gear, Lichfield or power station.

was thinking of the PRO-R kit as I could have it fitted when I have the service done and have a few add on's like rear arb, possible bush kit or two, I would require your advice on what would be needed but I would still need a visit to Lichfield for the PAS mod and geo settings at an extra cost which leads me on to thinking of

Visiting someone like Lichfield and having them fit this below which I thought was well priced but would still be on the standard springs, could always have a set of the pro-r or eibach's fitted at the same time

HANDLING PACK - £695 INC. VAT
Uprated rear anti roll bar
Revised steering feel
4 Wheel laser alignment with fast road settings
Revised sub frame and chassis bush kit
Litchfield Front Strut Brace
Labour to install

Or finally power station who i know helped work on the type20 setup on the hatch (well according to the web page anyway) and have them fit either the stage 1 or 2 kit

Stage 1
Revised PAS Pump Valving
Front Anti Roll Bar
Rear Anti Roll Bar
(including reinforcing stays)
Powerflex Caster Kit
Steering Rack Bushes
4-Wheel Alignment
£595 + VAT

Stage 2
Eibach Lowering Springs
Revised PAS Pump Valving
Front Anti Roll Bar
Rear Anti Roll Bar
(including reinforcing stays)
Powerflex Caster Kit
Steering Rack Bushes
Rear Subframe Bush Kit
4-Wheel Alignment
£895 + VAT

open for any help or advise, regards

Mate, contact Litchfields as they have a new strut and spring kit in development with Bilstein. Supposed to be an excellent kit and will come in at under a grand. I was going to have it fitted but didn't want the wait. This was a month or so ago now so they shouldn't be far off having them finished.
Old 15 August 2012, 09:14 AM
  #8400  
urban
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Guys

My 330S has began to use some oil(I check it regularly by the way) - but not a lot in the great scheme of things.

Any of you using oil?


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