08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
26 December 2013, 08:55 PM
Scooby Senior
Andy Kindon is building the engine and he out sourced the the machine work sure the fella is called bob and he's based in Houghton Le Spring (north east)
He's done a fair few of them now and a couple of early ones have 20 and 30k on them no issues. Apparently there is a few problems when pinning the 2.5 so this is the better option.
He's done a fair few of them now and a couple of early ones have 20 and 30k on them no issues. Apparently there is a few problems when pinning the 2.5 so this is the better option.
http://midlandscoobies.invisionzone....opic=33218&hl=
26 December 2013, 08:58 PM
Scooby Regular
you might find this interesting read
http://midlandscoobies.invisionzone....opic=33218&hl=
http://midlandscoobies.invisionzone....opic=33218&hl=
26 December 2013, 09:12 PM
Scooby Senior
yep, sorry.
From Kev at ScoobyClinic
The Gaffer, on 24 Dec 2013 - 12:21 PM, said:
Hi,
this may interest you.
For many years, well before the 2.5 was introduced into the UK we at the clinic have forged the 2.5 engines finding them the best for power and torque by far for a fast road car, however they did have a weakness.
Even when fully forged we were uncomfortable pushing them over 450BHP, plenty for a road car but when it came to race cars it wasn’t enough.
In time attack a few years back we cranked one up for the Silverstone long straights and it popped, liner split and a rod through the top, question is did the liner split and allow coolant into the cylinder which broke a con rod or did the head-gasket fail allowing coolant into the cylinder and split the liner taking the con rod with it ? who knows but it proved a point, 450 BHP is the upper safe limit on the 2.5 (in our opinion)
We started re-linering them a few years back, however that in itself caused other problems, the knock on effect of the liners settling meant that there was an 80% chance the engine would need stripping and deck skimming with new gaskets again after running in, not ideal when you have just shelled out around 10K to re liner and fully forge your engine.
After re-linering, running in and mapping, the ones that dropped had to be stripped, block skimmed and re built, problem was that there was still a 15% chance of the liner dropping again, most didn’t but the odd one that did became frustrating to say the least.
So we have come up with this..................
A closed deck 2.5 block which retains its original liners so no chance of them dropping at all and good for ? what ? well over 500 BHP we think.
(please note this block is yet to be re bored and honed so please ignore the marks on the cylinder walls)
Let the testing begin.
Cheers
Kev
From Kev at ScoobyClinic
The Gaffer, on 24 Dec 2013 - 12:21 PM, said:
Hi,
this may interest you.
For many years, well before the 2.5 was introduced into the UK we at the clinic have forged the 2.5 engines finding them the best for power and torque by far for a fast road car, however they did have a weakness.
Even when fully forged we were uncomfortable pushing them over 450BHP, plenty for a road car but when it came to race cars it wasn’t enough.
In time attack a few years back we cranked one up for the Silverstone long straights and it popped, liner split and a rod through the top, question is did the liner split and allow coolant into the cylinder which broke a con rod or did the head-gasket fail allowing coolant into the cylinder and split the liner taking the con rod with it ? who knows but it proved a point, 450 BHP is the upper safe limit on the 2.5 (in our opinion)
We started re-linering them a few years back, however that in itself caused other problems, the knock on effect of the liners settling meant that there was an 80% chance the engine would need stripping and deck skimming with new gaskets again after running in, not ideal when you have just shelled out around 10K to re liner and fully forge your engine.
After re-linering, running in and mapping, the ones that dropped had to be stripped, block skimmed and re built, problem was that there was still a 15% chance of the liner dropping again, most didn’t but the odd one that did became frustrating to say the least.
So we have come up with this..................
A closed deck 2.5 block which retains its original liners so no chance of them dropping at all and good for ? what ? well over 500 BHP we think.
(please note this block is yet to be re bored and honed so please ignore the marks on the cylinder walls)
Let the testing begin.
Cheers
Kev
26 December 2013, 09:27 PM
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: newcastle
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well after 10yrs of owning Scooby's am thinking of selling up ( but 1st ive got to convince myself its the right move
thinking of going down land rover route either Freelander 2 or evoque or something thing similar
its got to be something that I can use daily & family car also be able to take in the forest when I go marshalling
thinking of going down land rover route either Freelander 2 or evoque or something thing similar
its got to be something that I can use daily & family car also be able to take in the forest when I go marshalling
26 December 2013, 09:28 PM
Scooby Regular
yep, sorry.
From Kev at ScoobyClinic
The Gaffer, on 24 Dec 2013 - 12:21 PM, said:
Hi,
this may interest you.
For many years, well before the 2.5 was introduced into the UK we at the clinic have forged the 2.5 engines finding them the best for power and torque by far for a fast road car, however they did have a weakness.
Even when fully forged we were uncomfortable pushing them over 450BHP, plenty for a road car but when it came to race cars it wasn’t enough.
In time attack a few years back we cranked one up for the Silverstone long straights and it popped, liner split and a rod through the top, question is did the liner split and allow coolant into the cylinder which broke a con rod or did the head-gasket fail allowing coolant into the cylinder and split the liner taking the con rod with it ? who knows but it proved a point, 450 BHP is the upper safe limit on the 2.5 (in our opinion)
We started re-linering them a few years back, however that in itself caused other problems, the knock on effect of the liners settling meant that there was an 80% chance the engine would need stripping and deck skimming with new gaskets again after running in, not ideal when you have just shelled out around 10K to re liner and fully forge your engine.
After re-linering, running in and mapping, the ones that dropped had to be stripped, block skimmed and re built, problem was that there was still a 15% chance of the liner dropping again, most didn’t but the odd one that did became frustrating to say the least.
So we have come up with this..................
A closed deck 2.5 block which retains its original liners so no chance of them dropping at all and good for ? what ? well over 500 BHP we think.
(please note this block is yet to be re bored and honed so please ignore the marks on the cylinder walls)
Let the testing begin.
Cheers
Kev
From Kev at ScoobyClinic
The Gaffer, on 24 Dec 2013 - 12:21 PM, said:
Hi,
this may interest you.
For many years, well before the 2.5 was introduced into the UK we at the clinic have forged the 2.5 engines finding them the best for power and torque by far for a fast road car, however they did have a weakness.
Even when fully forged we were uncomfortable pushing them over 450BHP, plenty for a road car but when it came to race cars it wasn’t enough.
In time attack a few years back we cranked one up for the Silverstone long straights and it popped, liner split and a rod through the top, question is did the liner split and allow coolant into the cylinder which broke a con rod or did the head-gasket fail allowing coolant into the cylinder and split the liner taking the con rod with it ? who knows but it proved a point, 450 BHP is the upper safe limit on the 2.5 (in our opinion)
We started re-linering them a few years back, however that in itself caused other problems, the knock on effect of the liners settling meant that there was an 80% chance the engine would need stripping and deck skimming with new gaskets again after running in, not ideal when you have just shelled out around 10K to re liner and fully forge your engine.
After re-linering, running in and mapping, the ones that dropped had to be stripped, block skimmed and re built, problem was that there was still a 15% chance of the liner dropping again, most didn’t but the odd one that did became frustrating to say the least.
So we have come up with this..................
A closed deck 2.5 block which retains its original liners so no chance of them dropping at all and good for ? what ? well over 500 BHP we think.
(please note this block is yet to be re bored and honed so please ignore the marks on the cylinder walls)
Let the testing begin.
Cheers
Kev
I suggested on the 2.5 thread earlier that I was surprised no one had used their own block.
I'll be very interested to see how testing goes with their block.
26 December 2013, 09:39 PM
Scooby Senior
register on MS then you can see the replies and answers from Kev.
26 December 2013, 09:49 PM
well after 10yrs of owning Scooby's am thinking of selling up ( but 1st ive got to convince myself its the right move
thinking of going down land rover route either Freelander 2 or evoque or something thing similar
its got to be something that I can use daily & family car also be able to take in the forest when I go marshalling
thinking of going down land rover route either Freelander 2 or evoque or something thing similar
its got to be something that I can use daily & family car also be able to take in the forest when I go marshalling
Gladly take yours in part ex, or we could sell you a big pimp truck
27 December 2013, 01:08 PM
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: west rainton
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you might find this interesting read
http://midlandscoobies.invisionzone....opic=33218&hl=
http://midlandscoobies.invisionzone....opic=33218&hl=
I know a couple of people running 600+ with this insert and no issues. I'll only be going 500bhp in the future but for the 1st yr or so it will just be running whatever I can get out of a billet VF48 with full 3" system k&n with RCM trumpet hrc 340lph pump etc so hopefully it should see 400 with that.
27 December 2013, 05:28 PM
29 December 2013, 12:41 PM
Scooby Regular
Wet shoe sole sliding on pedal as you release?? (favourite this time of year
)
29 December 2013, 06:07 PM
Scooby Regular
29 December 2013, 07:24 PM
Scooby Regular
30 December 2013, 07:37 AM
Scooby Senior
if I go to a main dealer to get my car checked over before my warranty runs out at the end of Jan 2014, if I pay for a compression test at the same time, what figures should I be looking at that are correct?
Just for piece of mind.
Just for piece of mind.
30 December 2013, 09:52 AM
Scooby Regular
CAUTION:
After warming-up, engine becomes very hot. Be careful not to burn yourself during measurement.
1. After warming-up the engine, turn the ignition switch to OFF.
2. Make sure that the battery is fully charged.
3. Remove the fuse of fuel pump from main fuse box.
4. Start the engine and run it until it stalls.
5. After the engine stalls, crank it for five more seconds.
6. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
7. Remove all spark plugs.
8. Fully open the throttle valve.
9. Check the starter motor for satisfactory performance and operation.
10. Install the compression gauge to the spark plug hole.
NOTE:
When using a screw-in type compression gauge, the screw should be less than 18 mm (0.71 in) long.
11. Crank the engine by starter motor and read the value when the needle of the compression gauge becomes stable.
NOTE:
• Perform at least two measurements per cylinder, and make sure that the values are correct.
• If the compression pressure is out of standard, check or adjust the pistons, valves and cylinders.
Compression (fully open throttle):
Standard
981 — 1,177 kPa (10 — 12 kgf/cm2, 142 — 171 psi)
Difference between cylinders
49 kPa (0.5 kgf/cm2, 7 psi) or less
12. After inspection, install the related parts in the reverse order of removal.
After warming-up, engine becomes very hot. Be careful not to burn yourself during measurement.
1. After warming-up the engine, turn the ignition switch to OFF.
2. Make sure that the battery is fully charged.
3. Remove the fuse of fuel pump from main fuse box.
4. Start the engine and run it until it stalls.
5. After the engine stalls, crank it for five more seconds.
6. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
7. Remove all spark plugs.
8. Fully open the throttle valve.
9. Check the starter motor for satisfactory performance and operation.
10. Install the compression gauge to the spark plug hole.
NOTE:
When using a screw-in type compression gauge, the screw should be less than 18 mm (0.71 in) long.
11. Crank the engine by starter motor and read the value when the needle of the compression gauge becomes stable.
NOTE:
• Perform at least two measurements per cylinder, and make sure that the values are correct.
• If the compression pressure is out of standard, check or adjust the pistons, valves and cylinders.
Compression (fully open throttle):
Standard
981 — 1,177 kPa (10 — 12 kgf/cm2, 142 — 171 psi)
Difference between cylinders
49 kPa (0.5 kgf/cm2, 7 psi) or less
12. After inspection, install the related parts in the reverse order of removal.
30 December 2013, 01:13 PM
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: staffs
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you live in notts salsa why not get the warenty check up at the delear and use a well known tuner to check it further if your paying, like scoobyclinic is local, you could get a leak down test, they also have the dyno and they know the correct figures it should be, rather than trust a dealer
30 December 2013, 07:21 PM
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: newcastle
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
30 December 2013, 08:29 PM
30 December 2013, 11:24 PM
Scooby Regular
The issue with CDB inserts is that they can fail so they don't necessarily work that well. However I have it on very good authority that if done properly and bedded in well they can work brilliantly, I'm aware that can be frustrating and demanding but I know of at least one owner of a hatch on here who persevered running them in and it goes like a stabbed rat.
Forged 2.5s aren't great for over 500bhp but for the road they're insane due to the favourably disproportionate torque delivery
