08/09 Hatches, Stand up and show yourselves!!!
08 May 2020, 12:39 PM
Boredom has set in so I have started removing my rear inner mudguards to reveal the rust on my sti hatch. I will treat it the same as Hedge and Rusti but also want to go towards the front under the plastic skirts. How do the skits come off. I can see the plastic buttons underneath I assume you just have to pull the skirt away from the car. Is that correct?
08 May 2020, 01:53 PM
Scooby Regular
Boredom has set in so I have started removing my rear inner mudguards to reveal the rust on my sti hatch. I will treat it the same as Hedge and Rusti but also want to go towards the front under the plastic skirts. How do the skits come off. I can see the plastic buttons underneath I assume you just have to pull the skirt away from the car. Is that correct?
https://www.scoobynet.com/members-ga...09-spec-c.html
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08 May 2020, 01:58 PM
Boredom has set in so I have started removing my rear inner mudguards to reveal the rust on my sti hatch. I will treat it the same as Hedge and Rusti but also want to go towards the front under the plastic skirts. How do the skits come off. I can see the plastic buttons underneath I assume you just have to pull the skirt away from the car. Is that correct?
I've got some of the upper clips spare if anyone breaks one, but they're cheap as at Vehicle clips uk.
The clay was medium, I think, but it was a year old. It was really hard to work.
08 May 2020, 02:05 PM
You'll end up like me doing everything!
I did spend alot of time cleaning before hand; powerwash, then Surfex diluted at about 10 or 20%, scrubbed, then powerwashed again, then working on the rust. And some time to dry well. If you're on your back underneath it, goggles and a mask are essential.....I stupidly didn't use a mask, tried the underseal in the wind, and realised the fine mist was up to window level. I definitely felt it on my chest.
I did spend alot of time cleaning before hand; powerwash, then Surfex diluted at about 10 or 20%, scrubbed, then powerwashed again, then working on the rust. And some time to dry well. If you're on your back underneath it, goggles and a mask are essential.....I stupidly didn't use a mask, tried the underseal in the wind, and realised the fine mist was up to window level. I definitely felt it on my chest.
08 May 2020, 02:12 PM
Thank you Don. I'm quite chuffed that I've inspired fellow hatch owners, but not a patch on your levels at all.
.....that reminds me, I didn't take the spoiler off, and I think that has those rust prone metal lug screws
.....that reminds me, I didn't take the spoiler off, and I think that has those rust prone metal lug screws
08 May 2020, 02:24 PM
If you do the front arches, be really careful of the metal "flaps" that are part of the wing, and hold the liner up when all the clips are removed; they are tucked in under the arch lip, and do not tolerate bending along their seams
09 May 2020, 03:53 PM
Scooby Regular
who was doing the rear light tints ??
09 May 2020, 04:51 PM
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09 May 2020, 07:05 PM
Scooby Regular
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10 May 2020, 09:39 AM
Scooby Senior
Thanks, I'll look into those products.
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11 May 2020, 06:50 PM
12 May 2020, 07:33 AM
Scooby Regular
12 May 2020, 07:42 AM
But if you insist, it's KCA409. I'm considering selling these replacements and going back to standard
13 May 2020, 07:59 AM
This ^^^ you just have to ask all the major jap importers what they use on fresh imports and its not Waxoyl.
13 May 2020, 08:01 AM
I'm certainly not recommending them, as they failed prematurely, as they have for others on here. Same with their rack bushes which lasted 9 months and were an MOT fail. Oem mounts are nearly half the price, and the other bonus is that they don't rust or gouge the turret top
But if you insist, it's KCA409. I'm considering selling these replacements and going back to standard
But if you insist, it's KCA409. I'm considering selling these replacements and going back to standard
I will be getting a set of standard ones again.
13 May 2020, 08:06 AM
Scooby Regular
13 May 2020, 08:30 AM
I wish I had some spare cash at the moment.......but aren't they designed for coilovers?
Last edited by hedgecutter; 13 May 2020 at 08:32 AM.
13 May 2020, 08:37 AM
13 May 2020, 08:40 AM
13 May 2020, 08:55 AM
Agreed but I currently run standard suspension and springs so theyre a bit overkill. Which is why I liked the rubber ones, they were very reasonable and a small upgrade over softer oem ones, or in my case cracked oem ones.
13 May 2020, 09:22 AM
Scooby Regular
That's a find, as they are normally 950 a pair. The mounts switched to pillow ball in 08 as group N operators were switching out the new age ones each race, and the rules changed.
I wish I had some spare cash at the moment.......but aren't they designed for coilovers?
I wish I had some spare cash at the moment.......but aren't they designed for coilovers?
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13 May 2020, 11:55 AM
only issue i would be concerned with is increased NVH, youd end up with a expensive ornament if you had to remove them due to being too harsh
13 May 2020, 12:17 PM
Hedgecutter, when you were cleaning and treating the underside of your car, did you use BH Deox Gel on the rust you were unable to remove.
My plan was
1. De grease with Surfex HD
2. Remove as much rust as possible. Rotary wire brushes
3. Hydrate 80 treatment
4. Dynax S50
I think I might be better to use Deox Gel after step 2 to remove the remaining rust before using Hydrate 80.
Your advice would be much appreciated.
My plan was
1. De grease with Surfex HD
2. Remove as much rust as possible. Rotary wire brushes
3. Hydrate 80 treatment
4. Dynax S50
I think I might be better to use Deox Gel after step 2 to remove the remaining rust before using Hydrate 80.
Your advice would be much appreciated.
13 May 2020, 01:05 PM
I used geox c gel on all the removable metal fixings, and anywhere paintwork was involved, to get maximum amount of rust off, but it needs to be covered for a good 12 hrs to be effective. I used hydrate 80 on all fixed components, as it was only surface rust. The dynax S50 is quite runny, so I only used it in cavities and seams, and around fixings, and on the fuel pipe because it needed it. I layered UB over the top to make it more durable. Good luck, happy to try and answer any questions. Just do as much prep as possible.
edit. Definitely good to use gel after step 2 if possible.
edit. Definitely good to use gel after step 2 if possible.
Last edited by hedgecutter; 13 May 2020 at 01:06 PM.
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15 May 2020, 08:44 AM
I used geox c gel on all the removable metal fixings, and anywhere paintwork was involved, to get maximum amount of rust off, but it needs to be covered for a good 12 hrs to be effective. I used hydrate 80 on all fixed components, as it was only surface rust. The dynax S50 is quite runny, so I only used it in cavities and seams, and around fixings, and on the fuel pipe because it needed it. I layered UB over the top to make it more durable. Good luck, happy to try and answer any questions. Just do as much prep as possible.
edit. Definitely good to use gel after step 2 if possible.
edit. Definitely good to use gel after step 2 if possible.
Oh and for the love of God dont get dynax on your shoe and walk it into the house as it will never come out
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