speedy steve

joz it wa the top rad hose that went

OK new problem..... have finished putting it all back together & it wont start

checked for spark ( as it sounded very close ) RH side ( turbo side ) only the front plug is firing ( have tried swaping coil pack & plugs no effect ) so it a low tension issue

on the LH side only the rear plug is firing ( swaped over coils & again its a Lt issue
interestingly both fire once then only rear continues to fire

have checked all connectors & they look fine, Im guessing possible sensor issue have continuity tested both crank & cam sensors no short to body, about 1kohm across coils which once again i'm guessing is normal ?

next guess was a nipped cable but no sign of damage... ??? kinda stuck where to look / check next ? any suggestions ??

SS

speedy steve

bump.. please help guys im going crazy here, if I dont get this fixed I'm gonna have to call in another lift home wish I'd just torched the dam thing now.....

joking... sorta.....

SS

speedy steve

bump.... help please guys......

fastmike

iTrader: (4)

Crank position sensor maybe

speedy steve

update :- buzzed all the wiring & thats all fine.

cam and crank sensors reading around 1kohm which i think is correct

checked signals from ecu & 2 strong signals, good earth one intermittent signal & 1 lines dead

sounds like ecu problem to me so pulled it out, pulled off case & checked for dry joints, no sign, reassembled & tried again, 4 sparks

put it all together AGAIN coughed spluttered started just running like a bag of bolts, give some revs & smoothed out a little but still very rough, let the revs drop, konked out wont re start, suspect ive lost the signals again, will check em again today

sounds like my ECU is goosed ??

anyone in the aberdeen area willing to let me try their ECU or try mine in their car to be sure ?

really dont wana pump any more cash in as I dont even know if the head problem is fixed yet ?

getting pretty frustrated with this

SS

speedy steve

have put the timing back as per photos prior to dissmantling ( about 3 teeth out on the crank ) instead of what the book says & it started 1st time ???
weird...

Anyway looks like I do still have the same problem & it wasnt head gaskets !!

This sounds serious doesnt it ? crack in heads ? crack in liners & block ??

Gas from cylinders into water jacket but no oil water mix ???

Any ideas guys....... am I stuck with the scrap it option now ?

SS

arumdevil

ouch!

speedy steve

how about the "wonder fluid" head gasket "fixer" is this a complete waste of money or does it have a chance ?? ( perma seal or something its called )

speedy steve

UPDATE

Shes a runner... all sorted..... till the next time I guess......watch out for thermostats that pass the "kettle" test but dont operate in situ ( or at least not correctly )........
changed it & now no bubbling, no overheating... success so at least it should live till next MOT SS

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, the stat test is a bit misleading, as it can still open (slowly)... but of course the kettle's water has reached getting on for 100C! Obviously the OEM stat is SUPPOSED to fully - and easily! - open by 78deg.

So really glad it appears to have worked for you. However, have you used any serious boost yet... That's the ultimate test!

speedy steve

Honestly I've used plenty of "standard" map boost, havent risked switching over to the ESL map yet ( its only an extra 0.5bar but it could tip the delicate balance )

actually at the moment I have another slight issue I want to try & kill 1st, I think its the lambda sensor ?? running great in all conditions except almost no throttle at this super light throttle opening cars hesitant, almost spluttery but not quite, give throttle another 5-10% & off like a rocket

am I on the right track with lambda ? its a chepo ebay job & they usually only last me a year or so anyway.. did MAF test instant stall which I think is what I want..

SS

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I suppose a knack'd lambda could cause that closed-loop hesitation. You can do a test to make sure it's working okay - see here:-

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-one-help.html

speedy steve

hmmm tried the test & im getting a cycling voltage possibly a little slower than expected but seems to be working ?

what would be next for dodgy hesitation at cruise only seems to happen or at least is most noticable at about 70-75 2800rpm

checked & regapped plugs last time they were out coil packs are not perfect at the tips behind the rubbers but not bad & not cracked only a lttle scouped where the top of the plug sits all are about the same...

have tried ESL 1.1 bar map now & it works fine but same problem so its unlikely to be ECU having said that immediately after a reset its a little less obvious.. but that could be me...

any ideas ?

SS

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

When you say slowly, how slow? It should cycle between 0 and 0.9V (or 0.9-0V) in about 2-3 seconds.

Coilpack/s only have to have microscopic cracks to give an inaudible missfire under raised boost - hence stuttering/hesitation. This happened to me when originally got remapped to 1.1bar... It was two coilpacks needed replacing, which cured it (then got the other 2 about a month later, for a nice full set.)

speedy steve

hmm signal is pretty much doing as described but its not really a cycle as such more of an erratic jumping up and down between these values its not really like a sine wave or anything much more random.. bad description but hoopefully you know what I mean

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

On the digital readout, the numbers should rapidly change between c.0V to 0.9V and back down again, etc... Is this what's happening?

speedy steve

Hi , the reading never drops below about 0.25 & cycles up to around .8
but its not a smooth up & down pattern very erratic..

when does the ecu decide to ignore the o2 sensor & go "open loop" as I mentioned the throttle opening only has to be very small ( 15% ish ) to get past this hesitation, its just on "cruise" say 5-10% that it happens, also my fuel economy ( if you can call it that ) is worse than usual...

I'm defo thinking o2 sensor ?

SS

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Those readings of 0.25V and 0.8V are spot on... but not sure about the "erraticness"? All I know is, my newish, 14-month old pukka OEM Lambda cycles between very similar values as what yours is seeing... but it's smooth as.

However, if you say you've noticed your fuel cons. has shot up, then it does sound like your Lambda is shagged, for sure.

I'm not too sure what conditions (load/revs, etc) are required for it to go into open loop and ignore the Lambda(?) Perhaps someone will say...