TD05 18G ?
23 September 2009, 07:26 PM
#34
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No offence intended, but this is a wind-up, right?
Very sound advice offered here......
Then...
And...
Very sound advice offered here......
Well it's dead now!!!!!!!!!
Was cruising up the motorway at 120 and it just lost loads of power and then loads of smoke came out the back!! Limped it home and checked under the bonnet and oil is everywhere! Dip stick is bone dry so I guess it's pretty dead now as I drove 15 miles like that
Was cruising up the motorway at 120 and it just lost loads of power and then loads of smoke came out the back!! Limped it home and checked under the bonnet and oil is everywhere! Dip stick is bone dry so I guess it's pretty dead now as I drove 15 miles like that
23 September 2009, 07:37 PM
#35
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No offence but you missed a bit of the text trying to make me look stupid!!
[quote=joz8968;8955947]
If you have fitted an 18g or 20g it needs to be remapped to make SAFE!!! and get the best out of it! If it is either of these turbos, then that's prob the reason why it feels different - must get it remapped to optimise it. Don't drive on boost and try not to drive much at all until you get it mapped!!! Also you might have too small injectors, etc, etc.../quote]
It's a like for like 16g
[quote=joz8968;8955947]
If you have fitted an 18g or 20g it needs to be remapped to make SAFE!!! and get the best out of it! If it is either of these turbos, then that's prob the reason why it feels different - must get it remapped to optimise it. Don't drive on boost and try not to drive much at all until you get it mapped!!! Also you might have too small injectors, etc, etc.../quote]
It's a like for like 16g
23 September 2009, 07:54 PM
#36
Yeah blue, your post was well intentioned I'm sure 
... but as steven has illustrated, it was eventually established that he did indeed have a like for like swap 16g 
Just unfortunate that it appeared to be a shagged one (fingers now crossed that's actually the case!...)
... but as steven has illustrated, it was eventually established that he did indeed have a like for like swap 16g Just unfortunate that it appeared to be a shagged one (fingers now crossed that's actually the case!...)
Last edited by joz8968; 23 September 2009 at 07:57 PM.
23 September 2009, 07:55 PM
#37
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Not trying to make you look anything at all mate.
What I see is that you have basically acquired an unknown turbo (and engine by the sound of it too), regardless of whether it's a like for like.
From what I can see on your posts you don't know the condition of it, and if that's the case it's hardly the wisest move to check it out using your motor as the guinea pig, and by your own admission your boost gauge wasn't visible, so you have no idea how the turbo was performing. Then you say you drove it 15 miles with potentially serious engine damage.
Try reading your posts from an onlookers point of view and you'll see why I thought it was a wind up.
What I see is that you have basically acquired an unknown turbo (and engine by the sound of it too), regardless of whether it's a like for like.
From what I can see on your posts you don't know the condition of it, and if that's the case it's hardly the wisest move to check it out using your motor as the guinea pig, and by your own admission your boost gauge wasn't visible, so you have no idea how the turbo was performing. Then you say you drove it 15 miles with potentially serious engine damage.
Try reading your posts from an onlookers point of view and you'll see why I thought it was a wind up.
23 September 2009, 08:01 PM
#39
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I don't wish the guy any harm, but it seemed a bit reckless to me, hence wind up.
23 September 2009, 08:22 PM
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The engine was out of a 95 sti with 83k on it and the owner had it in his car for 5 years. he only sold it due to the car being rear ended and wrote of by the insurance. I saw all the mot's to back his miles up and he was a mechanic that only ran semi synthetic in it.
I did know about the engine!
the turbo was bought from here of a guy that had it on a right off. It had only been on the car for 12 months. A little history but thats all I know about it.
I was not to know that I was potentialy damaging my engine as the car was running!
Sorry for not being an expert but I tried to source the best parts/engine I could for the money and it wasn't cheap!
Anyway helpful advice is more than welcome not the negs thanks.
I did know about the engine!
the turbo was bought from here of a guy that had it on a right off. It had only been on the car for 12 months. A little history but thats all I know about it.
I was not to know that I was potentialy damaging my engine as the car was running!
Sorry for not being an expert but I tried to source the best parts/engine I could for the money and it wasn't cheap!
Anyway helpful advice is more than welcome not the negs thanks.
24 September 2009, 09:02 PM
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The turbo is scrap! Just hope everything else is ok now
I'm going to get my turbo reconditioned I think. Is that a good way to go? I don't realy want 2nd hand again after all this!
I'm going to get my turbo reconditioned I think. Is that a good way to go? I don't realy want 2nd hand again after all this!
24 September 2009, 09:43 PM
#43
Thought it was the turbo. And given the symptoms then, phew... thank god it was, eh?!!!
Yeah, either a refurb'd replacement in exchange for your unit or, as you say, yours rebuilt, would be better options... As you could go through the same whole thing again!
And given the symptoms then, phew... thank god it was, eh?!!!Yeah, either a refurb'd replacement in exchange for your unit or, as you say, yours rebuilt, would be better options... As you could go through the same whole thing again!
Last edited by joz8968; 24 September 2009 at 09:54 PM.
24 September 2009, 09:57 PM
#44
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Thanks for your help on this Joz Just got to make sure I didn't do any damage to my lump now! I will find out over the next couple of days..
Thanks also on the recon advice, just got to find the right place to do it now.
Steve
Just got to make sure I didn't do any damage to my lump now! I will find out over the next couple of days..Thanks also on the recon advice, just got to find the right place to do it now.
Steve
24 September 2009, 10:09 PM
#45
I'd get this:-
AndyForrestPerformance
AFP5-16 - is based on the 90 degree inlet TD05 16G from the 93-96 cars and can also be converted to front entry to suit 97 onward cars. This turbo is very popular on installations aiming for up to 340bhp. It is available as a fully re-manufactured unit or new. This turbo will typically spool up to 1 bar boost by 3000rpm and full boost by 3300rpm.
* £320 exchange or £600 new outright (includes 12 months warranty)
A modded 16g - I think it's been modded on the turbine side to spool a bit earlier than the OEM 16g. But look at the price for exchanging your one!... only £368 all in!!! (320 +VAT). Gotta get it. Also, you'll know it'll be a pukka item - supplied by one of the world's best Subaru specialists
AndyForrestPerformance
AFP5-16 - is based on the 90 degree inlet TD05 16G from the 93-96 cars and can also be converted to front entry to suit 97 onward cars. This turbo is very popular on installations aiming for up to 340bhp. It is available as a fully re-manufactured unit or new. This turbo will typically spool up to 1 bar boost by 3000rpm and full boost by 3300rpm.
* £320 exchange or £600 new outright (includes 12 months warranty)
A modded 16g - I think it's been modded on the turbine side to spool a bit earlier than the OEM 16g. But look at the price for exchanging your one!... only £368 all in!!! (320 +VAT). Gotta get it. Also, you'll know it'll be a pukka item - supplied by one of the world's best Subaru specialists
Last edited by joz8968; 24 September 2009 at 10:12 PM.
25 September 2009, 02:49 PM
#48
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Lol I can see you feel my pain
Keeping my chin up though as I now have a knackered top and a knackered bottom engine.
If it's not just a valve then I will get new shells put on this crank and have it all balanced then put the heads on off my old engine....
Oh and that turbo then I should be pretty much bullet proof..
Keeping my chin up though as I now have a knackered top and a knackered bottom engine.
If it's not just a valve then I will get new shells put on this crank and have it all balanced then put the heads on off my old engine....
Oh and that turbo then I should be pretty much bullet proof..
10 October 2009, 05:12 AM
#49
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The damage!
I'm rebuilding the 1st engine that the crank went on now. I've bought new crank, shells, uprated oil pump, seal and gasket set, water pump and stat so far..
I'm rebuilding the 1st engine that the crank went on now. I've bought new crank, shells, uprated oil pump, seal and gasket set, water pump and stat so far..
10 October 2009, 09:30 AM
#50
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Hi
I have a 99 uk turbo project and my aim was 350 hp on my uk engine. after lots of oo'ing and ahh'ing i bought a 16g to be safe (f/e converted) which would do 340hp with supporting mods, however push this turbo any further and it gets so hot it spools really hot air and decreases charge temps
I stuck a cheeky bid on a Zage engineered TD05 18g and won it at £250 Brand fire new. If you do a search for zage their website claims this turbo will do 375 hp @ 1 bar (with supporting mods of course)
if you check my project thread i put the spec of the turbo on there if you dont want to dig around for info, im going for mapping shortly too so will know what power it makes.
Jon
I have a 99 uk turbo project and my aim was 350 hp on my uk engine. after lots of oo'ing and ahh'ing i bought a 16g to be safe (f/e converted) which would do 340hp with supporting mods, however push this turbo any further and it gets so hot it spools really hot air and decreases charge temps
I stuck a cheeky bid on a Zage engineered TD05 18g and won it at £250 Brand fire new. If you do a search for zage their website claims this turbo will do 375 hp @ 1 bar (with supporting mods of course)
if you check my project thread i put the spec of the turbo on there if you dont want to dig around for info, im going for mapping shortly too so will know what power it makes.
Jon
10 October 2009, 10:13 AM
#51
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Sorry guys, I know that the OP is looking for experience and answers but two things here just have to be pointed out.
1) the replies are somewhat alarming and misinforming, be that with the best intention (I'm sure) or not.
2) technically, some of the replies are just crazy.
let's start from the bottom and work up.
I'm sure AndyF wont mind me letting the cat out of the bag but, the AFP16g will be a normal 16g (albeit new) with the compressor housing pointing frontward, nothing else, this allows the cars built after 96 to run a 16 as their inlet passes under the manifold not up and over.
The valves are in the heads, if you have a knackered bottom end then that will result in a rebuild, have the crank checked by all means but you'd be lucky to get away with spun bearings and the crank being a-ok. a risk too far imo.
a compression test tests the compression in the lump, the turbo will not AFAIK have any effect on this at all.
If a turbo catastrophically fails, then the turbo has failed, not the lump, therefore the lump wont not run, but, when the turbo fails, depending on if it shoots bits through the engine this can lead to bottom end damage.
Im my albeit limited experience, when the turbo seals fail, the exhaust side lets oil by that in turn pours onto the red hot exhaust causing smoke to bellow from the back of the car. Lots of oil in the intake side etc would be due to the breathers on the engine chucking loads of oil out. Think about the turbo logical path, air comes in through the filter, through the compressor into the TB and engine, along the way the breathers are recirculated into the inlet pipe which is contaminated air, hence why a lot of people reroute the breathers to a catch can, a) it means the air into the compressor is clean and b) it means you can monitor how much oil is being discharged through the breathers.
a dry dipstick means the oil is about 1 litre underfilled and there is nothing else you can factually say from this, it can be that it is considerably more than that under but the only way to know for sure would be to either drain the oil completely and measure how much comes out (on a 96 that would be 4.5L - how much comes out = oil deficiency) or to fill it up to the correct mark on the dipstick measuring how much goes in (oil left in engine + amount used to top up = 4.5L).
oil everywhere under the bonnet is not a good sign. fact. It can be a sign of an owner who doesnt care enough to clean it, a sign that whoever filled the oil up did so without care or that the engine just decided to **** itself royally.
Driving 15 miles after the incident at 120mph was lunacy, sorry, but you should have pulled in straight away and sorted recovery, if there may have been parts from the engine that could have been saved (assuming it's goosed of course and fingers crossed for you it's not!) that now cannot be.
Question I would ask here is on that 15 minute drive did it sound like somebody was hitting the engine with a hammer? was there a knock knock knock knock tone to the engine?
Boost gauge needs illumination, otherwise if the **** hits the fan in the dark how do you know?
The only difference between wrx and sti bottom ends is the pistons. In the heads, the cams are different and in theory if you didnt change the ecu at the same time your map is off.
if the old turbo fins were bent then it may well have been that making the loud noise.
Here is the disclaimer, all the above could be bollox, its up to you to check or confirm anything as I am nothing more than a keen amateur who has been tuning and developing my Imprezas (on my 3rd now) for about 6 or 7 years, there are some things that can be taken as relatively gospel but pretty much all the advice you get on scoobynet needs to be treated with kid gloves before jumping in.
Compression down in a cylinder could be ring or pistion etc.
The person who has posted has only tried to help but by Lord some of the advice you have received is bordering on the stupid and thoughtless.
1) the replies are somewhat alarming and misinforming, be that with the best intention (I'm sure) or not.
2) technically, some of the replies are just crazy.
let's start from the bottom and work up.
I'm sure AndyF wont mind me letting the cat out of the bag but, the AFP16g will be a normal 16g (albeit new) with the compressor housing pointing frontward, nothing else, this allows the cars built after 96 to run a 16 as their inlet passes under the manifold not up and over.
The valves are in the heads, if you have a knackered bottom end then that will result in a rebuild, have the crank checked by all means but you'd be lucky to get away with spun bearings and the crank being a-ok. a risk too far imo.
a compression test tests the compression in the lump, the turbo will not AFAIK have any effect on this at all.
If a turbo catastrophically fails, then the turbo has failed, not the lump, therefore the lump wont not run, but, when the turbo fails, depending on if it shoots bits through the engine this can lead to bottom end damage.
Im my albeit limited experience, when the turbo seals fail, the exhaust side lets oil by that in turn pours onto the red hot exhaust causing smoke to bellow from the back of the car. Lots of oil in the intake side etc would be due to the breathers on the engine chucking loads of oil out. Think about the turbo logical path, air comes in through the filter, through the compressor into the TB and engine, along the way the breathers are recirculated into the inlet pipe which is contaminated air, hence why a lot of people reroute the breathers to a catch can, a) it means the air into the compressor is clean and b) it means you can monitor how much oil is being discharged through the breathers.
a dry dipstick means the oil is about 1 litre underfilled and there is nothing else you can factually say from this, it can be that it is considerably more than that under but the only way to know for sure would be to either drain the oil completely and measure how much comes out (on a 96 that would be 4.5L - how much comes out = oil deficiency) or to fill it up to the correct mark on the dipstick measuring how much goes in (oil left in engine + amount used to top up = 4.5L).
oil everywhere under the bonnet is not a good sign. fact. It can be a sign of an owner who doesnt care enough to clean it, a sign that whoever filled the oil up did so without care or that the engine just decided to **** itself royally.
Driving 15 miles after the incident at 120mph was lunacy, sorry, but you should have pulled in straight away and sorted recovery, if there may have been parts from the engine that could have been saved (assuming it's goosed of course and fingers crossed for you it's not!) that now cannot be.
Question I would ask here is on that 15 minute drive did it sound like somebody was hitting the engine with a hammer? was there a knock knock knock knock tone to the engine?
Boost gauge needs illumination, otherwise if the **** hits the fan in the dark how do you know?
The only difference between wrx and sti bottom ends is the pistons. In the heads, the cams are different and in theory if you didnt change the ecu at the same time your map is off.
if the old turbo fins were bent then it may well have been that making the loud noise.
Here is the disclaimer, all the above could be bollox, its up to you to check or confirm anything as I am nothing more than a keen amateur who has been tuning and developing my Imprezas (on my 3rd now) for about 6 or 7 years, there are some things that can be taken as relatively gospel but pretty much all the advice you get on scoobynet needs to be treated with kid gloves before jumping in.
Compression down in a cylinder could be ring or pistion etc.
The person who has posted has only tried to help but by Lord some of the advice you have received is bordering on the stupid and thoughtless.
Last edited by Peanuts; 10 October 2009 at 10:23 AM.
10 October 2009, 02:33 PM
#52
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The problem with my engine is obvious if you look at the pic I posted.
Hence why the oil went everywhere!!
I don't know if the turbo is scrap or not.
No knocking from the car and I only tickled it home as it lost power and wasn't knocking.
I wasn't going to re-shell the knocking crank I was going to re-shell the good crank from the burnt piston!
I'm not sure if the valve thing was aimed at me but if it was i'm more than aware where the vaves are! Whether they are damaged after crank failure however I dont know.
AFP turbo is fine for me as I only want to take the car to 330 bhp and I'm using his because it's about £300 cheaper than a brand spanking new TD05H.
Hence why the oil went everywhere!!
I don't know if the turbo is scrap or not.
No knocking from the car and I only tickled it home as it lost power and wasn't knocking.
I wasn't going to re-shell the knocking crank I was going to re-shell the good crank from the burnt piston!
I'm not sure if the valve thing was aimed at me but if it was i'm more than aware where the vaves are! Whether they are damaged after crank failure however I dont know.
AFP turbo is fine for me as I only want to take the car to 330 bhp and I'm using his because it's about £300 cheaper than a brand spanking new TD05H.
10 October 2009, 03:02 PM
#53
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cool, nothing above really was aimed at you, more the advisors.
All the td05s I ever bought were from here or ebay at about £100 a piece, none of which let me down.
I cannot see pictures at work from photobucket accounts as they are blocked by filters.
All the td05s I ever bought were from here or ebay at about £100 a piece, none of which let me down.
I cannot see pictures at work from photobucket accounts as they are blocked by filters.
10 October 2009, 03:08 PM
#54
Peanuts, if you are referring to my posts, then the only thing I feel I have omitted, is the fact that, as you say, when a turbo fails, it could knacker the bottom end through bits going through the engine, etc. Although that is indeed possible, it's not normally the case (certainly not in my experience.)
If you read the OP's concern's/symptoms and my immediate responses to them, post by post, then there's (at least some) logical reasoning to them. I wouldn't call it 'clap trap' as you appear to be implying.
Also, I wasn't saying "Yeah, go on strap a AF 16g on now, etc..." in a cavalier manner; I was just reasoning that should the turbo be scrap, then when the OP gets to the bottom of things, then a AF 16g (plus remap) would be a good replacement based on its alleged performance/price, when compared to what the OP was gonna outlay for a brand new OEM spec TD05H 16g (see his above post ^^^.)
And I know it's a F.E. cover, but nothing that a 90-deg silicone/ally joiner can't sort out (I assumed the OP knew this/could work it out for himslef.)
If you read the OP's concern's/symptoms and my immediate responses to them, post by post, then there's (at least some) logical reasoning to them. I wouldn't call it 'clap trap' as you appear to be implying.
Also, I wasn't saying "Yeah, go on strap a AF 16g on now, etc..." in a cavalier manner; I was just reasoning that should the turbo be scrap, then when the OP gets to the bottom of things, then a AF 16g (plus remap) would be a good replacement based on its alleged performance/price, when compared to what the OP was gonna outlay for a brand new OEM spec TD05H 16g (see his above post ^^^.)
And I know it's a F.E. cover, but nothing that a 90-deg silicone/ally joiner can't sort out (I assumed the OP knew this/could work it out for himslef.)
Last edited by joz8968; 10 October 2009 at 03:43 PM.
10 October 2009, 03:17 PM
#55
And - with respect to the OP - I did actually say he should get his gauge working, etc... I can't be 'blamed', therefore, if he subsequently goes out and rags it to 120mph, whilst not monitoring boost level!
I must admit, I was dumbfounded by this action - esp. after all that was said/thought to be 'established' at the time...
I must admit, I was dumbfounded by this action - esp. after all that was said/thought to be 'established' at the time...
Last edited by joz8968; 10 October 2009 at 03:22 PM.
10 October 2009, 03:29 PM
#56
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I had checked everthing was ok before ragging it to 120mph. My aim was 150 mph as it was running ok it just didn't seem as fast and it just didn't soun as loud (deep) as it did befor the engine change.
I wanted to see if the scally that sold me the engine hadn't sold me a wrx engine instead of and sti one!! I wasn't trying to drive it through any problem it had!!
Also Andy Forrest said his turbo wont need a remap but it would get the most out of it if I did.
I wanted to see if the scally that sold me the engine hadn't sold me a wrx engine instead of and sti one!! I wasn't trying to drive it through any problem it had!!
Also Andy Forrest said his turbo wont need a remap but it would get the most out of it if I did.
10 October 2009, 03:55 PM
#58
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I didn't hold it at 120 as I was aiming way higher! It got upto around 120 then lost power. It only got up to it as I just jumped on the motorway but once it lost power I plodded home at 40mph, 95% motorway miles and it was about 10 mile not 15 when I did a return the other night on my way to work.
I have no idea if the turbo is scrap or not but I'm a bit nervous about going for a used one again as everything I'm rebuilding the engine with is brand new.
I have no idea if the turbo is scrap or not but I'm a bit nervous about going for a used one again as everything I'm rebuilding the engine with is brand new.