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why are so many blobeyes blowin up after oil change

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Old 14 December 2009 | 09:39 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SunnySideUp
But, if you are worried, adhere to this Oil Change Procedure:-

The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-

1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.

2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)

3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.

4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.

5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.

6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.

7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.

8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.

9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!

10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.

11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.

12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!
rubbish -- used this very same procedure on my blob -- engine let go bang on 30k (it was sonic blue btw, I have heard they are more prone to this, anyone confirm this?)
Old 14 December 2009 | 10:34 AM
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Dry cranking is probably doing more harm than good!

Old wifes tale, if you car is parked up for a few weeks do you dry crank it before you drive it again
Old 14 December 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Its people thrashing them from cold and using the wrong grade fuel that causes failures,nothing to do with oil changes and certainly nothing to do with not 'dry cranking' the engine as this is a myth
Old 14 December 2009 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Foofighter
I honestly don't know mate,mines done 42000 miles and runs perfect and doesn't use a drop of oil or water
As above. I'm on 45k now, has been modified since 9k. Never uses any oil or water and never misses a beat. I service mine every 6 months regardless of miles (which is usually 3-4k).
Old 14 December 2009 | 12:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by SunnySideUp
But, if you are worried, adhere to this Oil Change Procedure:-

The Oil Change according to the Old Ladies on here:-

1. Remove Oil Filler Cap, 'gently' - take at least 5 minutes or the threads will strip and the exhaust will fall off in a weeks time.

2. Carefully jack up the front of car, make sure that only the 'special' car jacking points are used or the steering wheel will be upside down next time you see it (the special jack points are only known to a select few, not the main dealers!)

3. Locate the Sump Plug, do this using an Inspection Lamp with a 100W bulb - do not, under any circumstances, use a bulb of lower wattage or the splash cover under the engine will melt and pieces will be sucked up into the MAF and then immediate engine failure will occur.

4. Undo Sump Plug whilst humming 'Oil Be Home For Xmas' - do NOT sing any other song or the Radio will never tune into any local stations again and the aerial will need to be replaced at the next service.

5. Allow Oil to drain into a Tupperware Perspex Jug - use only perspex as other plastics react with the old oil and particles travel back through the draining oil and attack the Big-End Bearings.

6. Whilst Oil is draining run around car 15 times in a Morris Dancing Outfit with the special Subaru bells attached to shoes.

7. Remove Oil Filter by unscrewing anti-clockwise 5 times, then clockwise 2 times, continue until filter is free ..... failure to do this will result in the new Filter not filling up with Oil on start-up.

8. Fill Oil Filter with Oil and screw new Oil Filter on and replace Sump Plug - there is some discussion about the order that these need to be replaced, many an evening in a B.O. smelling corner of a dark pub has been spent mulling over the merits of both choices ..... there is a 'special' way, but we are not sure what it is yet.

9. Start filling the engine with Oil - Synthetic only please!! and of course, Subarus need 'special' Oil - Mobil made a 'special' Oil just for us!!

10. Now it gets complicated, the engine start procedure ...... remove the spark plugs, coil packs and battery - remove the seats and rear boot/tailgate - ensure Octane Booster is removed from tank as it might spontaneously start the car when you are not ready - take the drive belts off - turn engine over, s....l....o....w....l....y - engine should be turned over at least 67 times to ensure adequate Oil film coverage.

11. Return all components and start engine whilst whistling the theme tune to TITANIC ................ if you are VERY lucky the engine will not shoot a con-rod through the block (this normally happens to MY96 cars which are MicaPink in colour) - but ALL Model Years can be affected equally as bad.

12. If the engine started without any problems, then don't be smug as the MAF sensor will blow up your engine within 3 days in any case!!!!!

OR, do as the Main Dealers do:-

Change Oil - start engine - check for Oil drips - return to customer!!
Ha Ha - I remember that getting posted by good old Pete years ago.
I also remember the stink that it caused with the *****
Old 14 December 2009 | 12:45 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by hodgy0_2
rubbish -- used this very same procedure on my blob -- engine let go bang on 30k (it was sonic blue btw, I have heard they are more prone to this, anyone confirm this?)
Thank god mines WRB, god what a relief that is, no need to respray mine, as it's so near to Easter
Old 14 December 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #38  
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Classic, bugeye, blobeye, hawkeye.....all the same engines mate!

As it is with many car makes, you only hear of the bad stories. No one ever comes on here and says, 'I serviced my car 7000 miles ago and it hasn't blown up', do they?

The ones that do go bang are either incorrectly fueled, badly modified or generally abused.
Old 14 December 2009 | 02:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by chrispurvis100
Classic, bugeye, blobeye, hawkeye.....all the same engines mate!

As it is with many car makes, you only hear of the bad stories. No one ever comes on here and says, 'I serviced my car 7000 miles ago and it hasn't blown up', do they?

The ones that do go bang are either incorrectly fueled, badly modified or generally abused.
Well said that man
Old 14 December 2009 | 02:53 PM
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Where are the ***** when you need them?
Old 14 December 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SunnySideUp
Where are the ***** when you need them?
I think they've either moved onto other forums or just grew up
Old 14 December 2009 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SunnySideUp
Where are the ***** when you need them?
Not dry cranking their engine that's for sure!
Old 14 December 2009 | 03:04 PM
  #43  
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Bu99er this, I'm going to have to get me a set of Bugeye headlights to save my engine!

As said, an engine's is an engine, it doesn't know what model car it's fitted to.
Old 14 December 2009 | 05:16 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Good job he doesnt know about the KS3/4's

Tony
Whoops! He does now!
Kraft foods have said that if their bid for Cadbury's falls through, they will make an offer for Subaru, as they've heard they make chocolate engines

JohnD
Old 14 December 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by GazTheHat
As above. I'm on 45k now, has been modified since 9k. Never uses any oil or water and never misses a beat. I service mine every 6 months regardless of miles (which is usually 3-4k).
As above:

415bhp
Oil changes every 4-5K
78,000 miles
Runs like a dream, burns no oil, excellent compression and valve clearances
Old 14 December 2009 | 07:27 PM
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What's a KS3 and 4?

Sounds like I can have some fun with those ....... are they in the same 'Group' as the KockLink?
Old 14 December 2009 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SunnySideUp
What's a KS3 and 4?

Sounds like I can have some fun with those ....... are they in the same 'Group' as the KockLink?
Yes, they give a numerical readout of engine noise, can be adjusted for knock frequency and sensitivity and warn you when your pre-set limit has been exceeded.
Bob5 will be along shortly to flog you one!

JohnD
Old 14 December 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #48  
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there is a 04 and a 06 in general tech with low mileage and frigged engines
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