For the record, does anyone know which brand/s of currently available pistons and rods are considered the ABSOLUTE strongest/best, etc (money no issue)?

 

It's a fitness of purpose issue, there are some supremely tough and well made products I wouldn't select for an engine primarily intended for road use.

We engine builders have a fine line to walk, and it isn't all about money.

 

Okay, I'll refine it a bit lol...

What would you feel are perfectly engineered ones - not massively over and not signficantly under - for a target of 500bhp/500lb ft, say?

 

My plans are to have a strong engine that will take the initial 350bhp( 335 when it went), then looking to get 4-425 with future turbo/injectors upgrade. This will be next year, as i've lots to do to the house first!
It would have been silly not to spend the extra cash, getting better reliability as it needed a rebuild anyway.
This will give me a cdb, forged rods/pistons, sti 3 heads(which i understand are the most aggressive for the early cars), acl bearings, arp bolts ect.
This will probably last 5 mins before the box goes, so future 6 speed in the pipeline too!! (just don't tell the lady!)

To the op, get the best you can afford, you'll be upset if it goes again. For the sake of £500- £1000 it could save you a lot more in the long run.

 

mit, do you know what the source of the reason was for your failure? Just a tired engine that couldn't take the power/torque? Or something specific?

 

Most forged items will do that fairly reliably.

But the best in no particular order are:

Pistons:
Cosworth
Wiseco
CP
Omega

Rods:
Cosworth
Pauter
Crower
Arrow
Carrillo.

But as said for 500 most forged items would do that no problem

 

Cheers daz. In your 'big power' circles you mix with e.g. SF, MH, etc., are you all running same make pistons and rods? I suppose it's a personal preference thing (for numerous reason/s)?

 

if i were to do a forged build now, id build it myself

if i were to have one built on a budget, id send a closed deck to engine tuner

 

Jeepers, wish I had the nous/skills to confidently tackle an engine rebuild!

 

Joz,

If you have the time, space and inclination i'd have a go yourself. I didn't have a bloody clue when I started but the best way to learn is by doing.

As for using the same kit, we don't but pretty much all of the big power builds I know well use rods and pistons from the manufacturers I listed.

When it comes down to it the engine tuner package is very very good value for money.

 

I'm okay at the mo. Zen built it, admittedly with modest STi 3/4 pistons and STi 9 rods - but that's good for 400bhp. But I still have the v.1 WRX hydro heads, so will prob be limited to 380 anyway.

Will be gettting API to fit appropriate supporting mods (stockpiled in my flat lol) and map 'em on an 18g. Hopefully anything between 350-380 will be seen - that suits me for now.

But the "forged question" was just in case I continue modding and fit STi 3/4 heads... at which point I might consider another build with 'proper' forged rods/pistons (PLUS 6-sp! ) and aim for 480+ on the STi 3/4 heads.......

P.S. Re turbos, I understand that the MD304 is preferred by some, over the 18g - due to slightly keener spool. Is the 304 still available, or is it obsolete?

 

Have you given the S206 turbo any thoughts? Engine Tuner are getting good results with them. It's what i may go for.

 

Yes, when/if I fit STi 3/4 heads - and I prob would opt for the S206 as it's effectively a 400-500 bracket job. Impressive!

But it's overkill on my v.1 WRX at the mo - an 18g would be perfectly suited to them.... at the mo!

But YOU shpuld defo go for that turbo IMO - it covers what you want now, and also what your new build will be able to take later (if you carry on) i.e. 500+ Go for it....

 

Bugger, I have Hyperflow FM which goes clockwise i.e. straight out of the OEM postion turbo's outlet, thus deleting most other FM kit's 180deg turn.

If I was to get the rotated S206, then, I'd have to swap the inlet/outlet IC pipework around and heavily mod it to make it fit!!! :