£250
#32
I had a whiteline 22mm rear anti roll bar & rear alloy drop links along with the fast road geo settings done on my old bugeye & i have to say it was money well spent & a great improvement.
ps im going for the same set up on my Type R.
ps im going for the same set up on my Type R.
#38
I had 22mm on the rear of my 53WRX set to middle and hard. Used Whiteline alloy drops.
Without question if I was doing it again I would do the front aswell. In fact I have on both my current scoobs.
People jump straight in and get c'overs, hard ******* springs etc when actually a lot of the handling can be sorted with bracing and assisting the current suspension by the parts that make it work harder.
£250....ish
Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory
Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard.
Without question if I was doing it again I would do the front aswell. In fact I have on both my current scoobs.
People jump straight in and get c'overs, hard ******* springs etc when actually a lot of the handling can be sorted with bracing and assisting the current suspension by the parts that make it work harder.
£250....ish
Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory
Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard.
#39
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (11)
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From: Browsing through a copy of Razzle
cheers pal, great info.
surly i cant do all this for £250 ish
*Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory
Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard
surly i cant do all this for £250 ish
*Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory
Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard
#40
cheers pal, great info.
surly i cant do all this for £250 ish
*Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory
Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard
surly i cant do all this for £250 ish
*Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory
Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard
Either or.
You should be able to do the F&R kit CDF Racing Links at snet price? and 24mm rear bar. Whiteline seems to be expensive one minute etc. Use Tim@ Scoobyparts for a snet price he is the business for whiteline.
Engine mounts and Modified GB Mount is c.£180, subframe bolts c.£25(Tim), Steering Bushes c.£20, pitchstop would push it slightly over going STi mounts but CDF were doing pitch mounts for c£40.
https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...-mounts-2.html
Last edited by 53; 15 March 2010 at 12:36 PM. Reason: cdf link
#43
Cut your cloth accordingly, always buy with the next stage in mind though. 24mm on soft with the scope to progress is a better investment than a 22mm IMHO. Doing both ultimately is what you want, either straight away or thought out in financially palatable stages.
#45
Yeah, you'll want a rear, not front. A 22mm would be enough. If you've coped this long without one, i doubt you'll need a 24, unless going on track.
I snapped a rear 22. Don't know how, but i never needed more than that. I did question it with Powerstation, but said it was fine. And when i drove in anger, down my super special stages, the car handled perfectly and predictable.
You'll want droplinks too though on a classic. Not needed on an 04 STi.
I snapped a rear 22. Don't know how, but i never needed more than that. I did question it with Powerstation, but said it was fine. And when i drove in anger, down my super special stages, the car handled perfectly and predictable.
You'll want droplinks too though on a classic. Not needed on an 04 STi.
#47
Depends how you want your car to feel, even at low speeds regardless of the limits of adhesion the arbs are working to provide greater rigidity and stiffness. Try other peoples and see
#48
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 0
From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Back again !
The rear bar has a huge effect on the cars handling, but on the stiffest setting it's no longer as family friendly....
Adding a front bar increases the grip and so improves the handling, but it makes the car even harsher over ridges and ruts. All good for the enthusiast.
ALK and other jewellery are all good, but costly.
IMHO
dunx
The rear bar has a huge effect on the cars handling, but on the stiffest setting it's no longer as family friendly....
Adding a front bar increases the grip and so improves the handling, but it makes the car even harsher over ridges and ruts. All good for the enthusiast.
ALK and other jewellery are all good, but costly.
IMHO
dunx
#50
hey why don't you go on a trackday or have a trip to Banbury?
If the request was for a car part -> extra set of rims for rally/mud/snow/tarmac/winter use? Think that's what a real enthusiast would do
cheers
Nico
If the request was for a car part -> extra set of rims for rally/mud/snow/tarmac/winter use? Think that's what a real enthusiast would do
cheers
Nico
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