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Old 14 March 2010, 06:45 PM
  #31  
powerwrx
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what links would people recommend aswell
Old 14 March 2010, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by powerwrx
cheers dunx, im opting for the 22mm on middle setting i think
I had a whiteline 22mm rear anti roll bar & rear alloy drop links along with the fast road geo settings done on my old bugeye & i have to say it was money well spent & a great improvement.

ps im going for the same set up on my Type R.
Old 14 March 2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Wulsey
I had a whiteline 22mm rear anti roll bar & rear alloy drop links along with the fast road geo settings done on my old bugeye & i have to say it was money well spent & a great improvement.

ps im going for the same set up on my Type R.
sounds good, what setting did you use on the ARB... middle?
Old 14 March 2010, 08:13 PM
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Yip i went for the middle mate.
Old 14 March 2010, 08:16 PM
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thanks pal
Old 15 March 2010, 10:35 AM
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up
Old 15 March 2010, 10:36 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by powerwrx
what links would people recommend aswell
up
Old 15 March 2010, 10:51 AM
  #38  
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I had 22mm on the rear of my 53WRX set to middle and hard. Used Whiteline alloy drops.

Without question if I was doing it again I would do the front aswell. In fact I have on both my current scoobs.

People jump straight in and get c'overs, hard ******* springs etc when actually a lot of the handling can be sorted with bracing and assisting the current suspension by the parts that make it work harder.

£250....ish

Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory

Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard.

Old 15 March 2010, 11:06 AM
  #39  
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cheers pal, great info.

surly i cant do all this for £250 ish

*Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory

Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard
Old 15 March 2010, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by powerwrx
cheers pal, great info.

surly i cant do all this for £250 ish

*Supplied and fitted STi GrpN Engine Mounts, P'stop and Gear Box mount(modified), Whiteline Subframe lock bolts, steering rack bushes. Tightening the slop and movement in the drivetrain make a huge difference to the ease of chuckability Hardrace do the mount kit, but hold out for the STi ones from Lateral or RCMS as they are factory

Get a 24mm rear bar on soft, Heavy duty ARB mount, do the drop links front and rear (CDF Racing links, great budget buy!). Get the 22mm front on when you have extra muller and set the rear to mid and the front to hard
Nope.

Either or.

You should be able to do the F&R kit CDF Racing Links at snet price? and 24mm rear bar. Whiteline seems to be expensive one minute etc. Use Tim@ Scoobyparts for a snet price he is the business for whiteline.

Engine mounts and Modified GB Mount is c.£180, subframe bolts c.£25(Tim), Steering Bushes c.£20, pitchstop would push it slightly over going STi mounts but CDF were doing pitch mounts for c£40.

https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...-mounts-2.html

Last edited by 53; 15 March 2010 at 11:36 AM. Reason: cdf link
Old 15 March 2010, 11:57 AM
  #41  
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ah i see lol...

i think the arb and links is the way to go for now. cheers
Old 16 March 2010, 05:07 PM
  #42  
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is changing the front ARB a nessesity straight away or is the rear enough for the time being
Old 16 March 2010, 05:24 PM
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Cut your cloth accordingly, always buy with the next stage in mind though. 24mm on soft with the scope to progress is a better investment than a 22mm IMHO. Doing both ultimately is what you want, either straight away or thought out in financially palatable stages.
Old 16 March 2010, 06:14 PM
  #44  
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thanks again...scoobyclinic recommended a 22mm rear and you a 24mm. choices choices
Old 16 March 2010, 08:28 PM
  #45  
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Yeah, you'll want a rear, not front. A 22mm would be enough. If you've coped this long without one, i doubt you'll need a 24, unless going on track.

I snapped a rear 22. Don't know how, but i never needed more than that. I did question it with Powerstation, but said it was fine. And when i drove in anger, down my super special stages, the car handled perfectly and predictable.

You'll want droplinks too though on a classic. Not needed on an 04 STi.
Old 16 March 2010, 09:59 PM
  #46  
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cheers gaz although ive not got a classic..i have a bugeye wrx. ill be doing the links aswell anyway front and rear
Old 16 March 2010, 10:07 PM
  #47  
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Depends how you want your car to feel, even at low speeds regardless of the limits of adhesion the arbs are working to provide greater rigidity and stiffness. Try other peoples and see
Old 16 March 2010, 11:52 PM
  #48  
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Back again !

The rear bar has a huge effect on the cars handling, but on the stiffest setting it's no longer as family friendly....

Adding a front bar increases the grip and so improves the handling, but it makes the car even harsher over ridges and ruts. All good for the enthusiast.

ALK and other jewellery are all good, but costly.

IMHO

dunx
Old 17 March 2010, 12:14 AM
  #49  
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rear 22mm ARB on middle setting with uprated front and rear links,together with a fast road geo set up

i think this will be my choice
Old 17 March 2010, 12:51 AM
  #50  
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hey why don't you go on a trackday or have a trip to Banbury?
If the request was for a car part -> extra set of rims for rally/mud/snow/tarmac/winter use? Think that's what a real enthusiast would do

cheers
Nico
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