Never knew that it went after 3 - 6 times, thats good to know!

 

Sorry Splitpin, but I've had enough of this attitude - what is your problem? Did I upset you in a former life or something??
Other things do take priority in my life; I've been working crazy hours in the last few weeks, and so TBH updating this page as soon as anybody adds something of value hasn't been high on my priority list.

That said, I always intended to add follow up comments from anybody who offered constructive criticism as that's the whole point of a forum, I'm not ignoring you or Mick, and will update the guide today.

Remember this is a voluntary thing so constantly demonstrating this sort of attitude is exactly what drives people away from sharing their experiences.

And as a previous poster pointed out, if you are that experienced I'd like to see you write some informative guides to help us too.
I've read some other posts here today on oil changes etc and seen your comments yet they don't seem anywhere near as negative so I'm very confused as to what I did to deserve this treatment!
You clearly know what you're on about mate - share the knowledge

 

The guide worked well for me

Good work, thanks!

 

Thanks for the kind words mate

 

Not at all. What you did was put up a post intended to be a comprehensive "how to" guide for oil changes, that, presumably, you intended others to follow. As such, you should be ready and prepared for the possibility that other posters with differing opinions on it will suggest amendments that will be to the benefit of the people you presumably intended it for.

The specific issue here is that you'd added the comment about the use of engine flush which anyone following your guide to the letter would likely have copied without a second thought. You could suggest that anyone reading the whole thread would get to both sides of the argument in the replies, but anyone just looking at your post would only have seen the recommendation.

That isn't giving you attitude it's asking you to clarify your guide before someone sticks a load of flush in their engine on the basis of your, at the time at least, somewhat one-sided recommendation.

Well aware of that. You're now finding out one of the downsides of this type of thread - especially when it comes to integrating divergent opinions. Once you've volunteered to create the thing in the first place, you kindof have a duty from that point forward to make sure as far as you can that it's as good as it can be.

Cough. I "share the knowledge" every time I post. As I said before, I've already been there and done that - and the results are all in my posting history, something the previous poster appeared too lazy to read. If you want knowledge, you'll find it here.

 

Very useful guide and the pics are helpful too - as they say, a picture tells a thousand words. Thanks for taking the time and trouble matey

Can't believe the grief that some posters on here have given Bugeye Scoob - seems like some people get a kick out of doling out criticism - sad.

 

As above, it ain't grief. It's an intent to make the guide as good as it can be so that the people it is intended to benefit, do. Bugeye made clear at the outset that it was open to amendment so that's what's happened. I'm sure you'd comment if you saw something on a thread you disagreed with (as, in fact, you just have). The difference is that you're just moaning, I've contributed to the thread.

 

Now you're putting words in my mouth.
What I put up was a post intending to help people, not be a "comprehensive guide" - if it was comprehensive I'd be writing Haynes manuals for a living.
Feedback is always welcome. Unconstructive whinging stating that "it's been done before" but with no links for comparison etc. isn't as it achieves nothing.

From what I could see, the specific issue is that I didn't update it quickly enough for you.

Do you realise how condescending and conceited you sound in that section above? That's why lunar tick commented on your negativity.

I have written other guides in the past which have been well received, and re-published on other forums too.
I like to learn from Scoobynet and other forums, and then share what I learn (good points and bad!) in a consolidated form so others in the future don't have to trawl through a load of content again or face the same problems I did.

I usually rely on people like you to point out issues with the post; however, those issues are normally pointed out in a friendly, rather than confrontational and somewhat rude manner - and that is my issue with your posts on this thread fella; fair enough if you didn't think you were coming across in that fashion, but that's how they've been interpreted - one of the main problems with electronic communication.

I suggest we start over, bury the hatchet, and if you think there is anything else missing from this, state positively how we can improve it, and I will try and update the guide to include your comments ok?
Speaking of which, I still need to include that crank sensor photo.

 

Lols just read this post as I am doing an oil change this morning. Excellent stuff bugeye, thanks. Trust me, for a first timer like me its just what I needed. Clear concise and instructive.
Splitpin is funny he has made fair enough points but maybe his communication skills are just not up to scratch!
Cheers bugeye.

 

bugeye scoob thanks for your time and effort on doing your guide well done.these guides are always useful to novices and people who just want to give it a go and save them self some labour charges,espiecially with all those good deals from opie oils going around at the moment. keep up the good work looking forwood to your next one.

 

Decent guide with plenty of pics, well done.

For flushing, I usually just drain the warm oil and then 'flush' some new fresh oil or old oil left over in the tin from last change, through before filling. Not a lot just a couple of hundred ml or so, usually till just the clean oil comes out the drain hole. Probably does no good, but at least it flushes out most of the old oil that can still be in the sump.

I was also very surprised at how much oil went into the tiny filter, I topped it up about 4 times!

 

Disconnect the crank or cam sensor and the engine will not fire. BOTH have to be working for the ECU to give the "go".

BUT WHY make life so difficult? Disconnec the ignition module ("distributor") on top of the intake manifold. Right there, easy to get at ! And the engine is never gonna start with that off.

DISCLAIMER: Direct Ignition / Coil-On-Plug systems might be a little different in layout.

 

You've put the chock at the wrong side of the wheel, it should be at the rear of the back wheel to stop the car rolling backwards when the front is lifted.

 

Bugeye_Scoob you couldn`t have timed this better. I`ve been contemplating doing an oil change and I remember reading somewhere that it wasn`t as straight forward as expected. So despite some of the ****ty posts, I reckon it`s a good thread, ta.

 

Yeah good post.

I do oil changes, and always like looking at how other people do it.

Thanks for putting this up for other to have the confidence to do it them selves and save a bit.

 

You can't see from this angle mate but the cars on a downhill slope hence the chocks are that side to stop it rolling over me!
I will note it in the guide though as it's a valid point!
Thanks for the kind comments all. Considering asking admin to sticky this.

 

Well done on a good guide.
I always drain my oil into a washing up bowl then pour it back into an empty oil container for the trip to the tip. They're dead cheap and easier to clean than the Halfords type. If you use the kitchen one, expect problems though.
I also never replace the sump plug washer. At least, I never did until I had a Subaru. The once I reused the old one, it leaked slightly. There will now be a rash of replies from folks who haven't had a leak. I can only speak from my experience.
I use ramps to raise the car for an oil change. They're safer and easier than jacks and stands. Watch the front spoiler clearance though.
I also used to fill my oil filter before fitting it. Then I watched how quickly the oil light went out and decided not to bother. I always run my engine before changing the oil (ramps remember) and start it on tickover so the bearings are well coated and only lightly loaded. Again, I know a number of folks disagree with this. I only speak for myself.
I've never disconnected the crank sensor after an oil change for the same reason as the filter. I don't like disturbing electrical connectors more often than I have to. That can introduce other problems. My car's up to 130,000 miles now. That's almost 20 connection/disconnections of a relatively cheap plug. If it fails, it looks like it's part of the wiring loom. I don't think it's available separately. Anyone know?

John

 

There is one thing I do not understand. I'm not that familiar with the boxer engine but I've owned V8s, Straight 6's, V6 diesels and bog standard 4 pot petrol engines. I'd feel confident doing most mechanical tasks on any of them and consider myself to be competent on the spanners.

What is the reason behind disconnecting the crank position sensor? I know it stops ignition and fuel supply, but why would you want to crank the engine over without it firing after an oil change?

There is absolutely nothing different in the state of the engine after an oil change than when you first go to start your car in the morning but we don't go disconnecting crank sensors or removing spark plugs every morning. Perhaps I am missing something due to my inexperience on this type of engine but this process smacks of an old wife's tale that has been repeated so many times that it has become "true"? Scoobypedia reckon its a myth too: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...hangeProcedure

I really don't see the need for cold cranking the engine after an oil change.

 

Rosso, read all of page #2 (and further) of this thread:-

Oil Change Questions

 

Joz,

Thanks so much for the link. I understand the issues surrounding this now. It is very different from a V or in-line engine. I'll definitely disconnect my crank position sensor when I do my oil change next week.

Thanks again,

Ross

 

Thing is, the air void should happen on ALL engines when drained of oil.

But, unfortunately, the Subaru EJ motor is believed it can suffer possible problems in transient journal to shell contact when priming with a firing engine. So best give it all the "help" it can get, by preventing the motor from firing in the first place i.e. turn it over on the starter only. It's the most you can do, in an attempt to try to combat against this alleged issue.

 

Thanks for write up. A few questions if I may.

1. Why disconnect crank sensor? This is my first scoob but I've done loads of changes in previous cars. What's the importance of this.

2. Any specialist tools required? I already own a comprehensive set of sockets, spanners, jack,axle stands and the mechanical Halfords oil filter tool. Is there anything else I need scooby specific?

3. What is the best jacking points on the blob? Front and rear.


Cheers

 

why is it on here when someone tries to do something to help others you get people that nit pick at stupid silly things, surely were all supposed to be on the same side, and so what if he did do something wrong which he didnt,so what. get a life.

 

Ehh?
Confused? Did I miss something

 

Real shame. I miss his sage, suffer-no-fools posts. His knowledge base was incredible.

 

Agree...everyone is missing out on the @Splitpin

 

Last post, 27 Nov 2010.

Blimey, don't time fly! I'll be well and truly entrenched in that grave all too soon.



Oh, and lol:

Friends:
Splitpin has not made any friends yet.
Befriend Splitpin.

That didn't surprise me one iota.

 

Yup this oily thread might well have been the final pin in the coffin ��