well enginetuner fitted an new exedy 230mm unit inc bearing,there is defo some resistance when i move the fork,how much resistance should there be lol.it may just be the spring.....im hopeing bigtime

 

if you pull the rubber grommet off and get torch have a look inside ,you will see whats mooving , it depends how far its traveling , the resistance might be the fork and bearing just sliding.

 

enginetuner fitted the new exedy 230mm kit that i supplied around 7-8 months ago.how much resistance should there be exactly as there is definetely resistance there.i can move the fork back towards the rod,(with resistance)and its quite stiff to push towards front of car.im hoping its just the spring,

 

i think that the fork is moving as it should.hopefully lol

 

Apologies 99, been out for the evening...

WTF is that it looks like your spring has broken and allowed the release fork to flap around loose. That spring is there to maintain tension on the fork, and so to maintain tension on the clip that retains the release bearing in the pressure plate.

The absence of the spring has allowed the fork to flap loose and released the clip. As James suggests earlier the clip might have broken but given that it is made of hardened steel, t is more likely that it's fine and simply needs to be reset. As said earlier you might be able to re-engage it simply by moving/shoving the upper end of the fork back towards the cylinder. If that doesn't work you'll have to reset the clip.

You should be able to do this yourself without removing the gearbox as follows, although you will need a very long, very slim, straight bladed screwdriver (or similar implement), a torch, a socket wrench and a 22mm socket (or other method of turning the crank), and some dexterity.

If you take the rubber boot off the fork, and peer down into the darkness with the aid of the torch, you should be able to see the nose of the thrust bearing - and in "front" of it, attached to the pressure plate, the outer ring of the retaining clip. This looks like two rings sitting close to (or right next to each other). You want to wedge your screwdriver into the gap and use it to wedge the two rings apart a little so there's a visible gap between them. Not very much - 5mm or so.

When you've got it going a bit, turn the crank a little (in normal rotation direction) and keep going til you've got a gap all the way round. Then try gently pulling the upper part of the fork backward toward the slave cylinder. You should feel a click as the bearing engages back into it. As soon as you do push the top of the fork in the other direction - toward the front of the car. You should immediately feel the difference.

Once you get it back in fit a new spring immediately to hold it in place. By the look of things you haven't lost any fluid from the slave cylinder so hopefully all you need to do is push that back and re-engage the link rod in the notch in the back of the fork. Check the fluid level and pedal action afterward though.

 

cant see any retaining clip? is the bearing supposed to move along the shaft?its looking like what u said splitpin,but cant see this retaining clip in there,and am clueless how im going to "reset" the clip if i cant physically see it,would it be towards the slave or front bumper side?