Major Engine failure today.............
13 May 2010, 02:40 AM
#32
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Nah no track time - well not by Me anyway - not sure if it has in the past, I have owned it for about 15 month's now - regular oil changes too
13 May 2010, 02:45 AM
#34
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Judging by some prices I saw on Ebay they range from about 1.5k to 3.5k !! at the moment he's offereing a month warranty only
thanks for the best wishes 
13 May 2010, 02:52 AM
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Si
13 May 2010, 04:29 AM
#36
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BUT if you did get the engine in and sorted we could ask Jolly Green Monster down to map, as I`ll deffo be in need of mapping and with 2 cars needing it (possibly more), could work out cheaper than if you were on your todd??
Anyways, hope you get sorted soon. I just hope my engine don`t go pop when installed as I`ve spend £2k on it
13 May 2010, 05:51 AM
#37
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Gutted for you fella.
BUT if you did get the engine in and sorted we could ask Jolly Green Monster down to map, as I`ll deffo be in need of mapping and with 2 cars needing it (possibly more), could work out cheaper than if you were on your todd??
Anyways, hope you get sorted soon. I just hope my engine don`t go pop when installed as I`ve spend £2k on it
BUT if you did get the engine in and sorted we could ask Jolly Green Monster down to map, as I`ll deffo be in need of mapping and with 2 cars needing it (possibly more), could work out cheaper than if you were on your todd??
Anyways, hope you get sorted soon. I just hope my engine don`t go pop when installed as I`ve spend £2k on it
My original Map was done by Bob Rawle - so I'm not sure if the ECU is locked to Bob 
I'm guessing I'd have to have the tweek only which is far cheaper than a first Map.I'd have no problem with JGM doing it
if they were able, I'm just stuck now on what to do - possibly the Sti lump from Dave's, money that is in very short supply
- as My engine could be shot completely with debris - Try and get the car back home and take the bits off myself (with some help ) to see what's what and what I can re-use.The Sti route would probably be a better bet, as I would have to find a Jap Spec WRX engine otherwise, with the correct AVCS heads fitted to it - nightmare
Your parts list is growing there - Well done, won't be long now and you'll be running fine !!
Si
13 May 2010, 09:24 AM
#38
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its a pitty your so far away Si theres a space in my garage for a week or so and i got all the tools you would need to do the engine strip/swop you are welcome to come use them and id be able to give you a hand after hours.
i thought my day was bad yesterday when the bottom ball joint for my car was the wrong one.
chin up fella
i thought my day was bad yesterday when the bottom ball joint for my car was the wrong one.
chin up fella
13 May 2010, 09:29 AM
#39
Gutted to hear what has happened mate, i have been bad enough because of my aircon rad being fooked so you must be feeling a 1000 times worse.
Hope there is a silver lining out there for you. Looking back at most of the gents on here that have had this happen, they now have some serious bulletproof cars on their hands with big power since they had no choice but to upgrade
Hope its sorted soon,
Ian
Hope there is a silver lining out there for you. Looking back at most of the gents on here that have had this happen, they now have some serious bulletproof cars on their hands with big power since they had no choice but to upgrade
Hope its sorted soon,
Ian
13 May 2010, 10:41 AM
#40
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(Can of worms potentially being opened warning!)
In general terms would it be correct to say that a standard engine will go pop at some time within it's life between 50k and 100k regardless of how well it's been maintained due to the engine design?. There are countless threads on the causes of engine failure from fuel supply design to oil pump design etc etc.
Therefore is the only solution to engine longevity to build a forged bottom end and tune it sympathetically?
My reason for asking is so that Simon can make an informed decision on what spec to go for given that he's keeping his car long term.
In general terms would it be correct to say that a standard engine will go pop at some time within it's life between 50k and 100k regardless of how well it's been maintained due to the engine design?. There are countless threads on the causes of engine failure from fuel supply design to oil pump design etc etc.
Therefore is the only solution to engine longevity to build a forged bottom end and tune it sympathetically?
My reason for asking is so that Simon can make an informed decision on what spec to go for given that he's keeping his car long term.
13 May 2010, 03:24 PM
#41
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i have no idea, but the low milage on his engine makes it seem odd specially while its been maintained. mines on standard sti engine near 90k now
does make you think.
were there any signs before the engine let go? or does it just happen with no warning?
does make you think.
were there any signs before the engine let go? or does it just happen with no warning?
13 May 2010, 05:06 PM
#42
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It's all luck of the draw with regards to how long the engine will last, my old MY99 was pushing out 320 ish BHP and had 129k on the clock when I sold it. This car had been abused everytime I had driven it, I never had to touch the engine apart from normal service items, I never had to top the oil/water up in the 7 years I owned it.
Simbs car let go at around the 60k mark, always serviced properly, warmed up/cooled down.
Simbs car let go at around the 60k mark, always serviced properly, warmed up/cooled down.
13 May 2010, 07:33 PM
#45
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Thanks for all your words of support and offers of help, it means alot and say's alot about the club's members
The engine was not particularly harshly treated, just over 59k miles - a shock I guess, as you would think the Scoob was pretty bulletproof - as said, there are many that don't make it to "High Mileage"
Oil was changed regularly too - although I was overdue a Cambelt change
My previous thread on a "Throbbing" sensation in the car, may have the prelude to the end, at the time I was under moderate load, heading down a dual, around the 5-6k rev mark - I felt a loss of power, as if my foot had slipped off the accel pedal, a slight pop from the right side of the engine, a metallic "flutterring" noise, plumes of Steam/Smoke and almost straight away pulled into a layby and more steam etc from the bonnet scoop, plenty of oil around too
I'm collecting the car to-morrow with the help of Richy (Welshy12) and a trailer and onward to Dylan who will have a gander and do whats needed, I'm sure........
Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to go big power - but will take Dylan's advice and upgrade where/what I can and hopefully salvage the rest of the motor
Thanks again SWS and Snetters
Si
The engine was not particularly harshly treated, just over 59k miles - a shock I guess, as you would think the Scoob was pretty bulletproof - as said, there are many that don't make it to "High Mileage"
Oil was changed regularly too - although I was overdue a Cambelt change
My previous thread on a "Throbbing" sensation in the car, may have the prelude to the end, at the time I was under moderate load, heading down a dual, around the 5-6k rev mark - I felt a loss of power, as if my foot had slipped off the accel pedal, a slight pop from the right side of the engine, a metallic "flutterring" noise, plumes of Steam/Smoke and almost straight away pulled into a layby and more steam etc from the bonnet scoop, plenty of oil around too
I'm collecting the car to-morrow with the help of Richy (Welshy12)
and a trailer and onward to Dylan who will have a gander and do whats needed, I'm sure........Unfortunately, I'm not in a position to go big power - but will take Dylan's advice and upgrade where/what I can and hopefully salvage the rest of the motor
Thanks again SWS and Snetters
Si
13 May 2010, 09:04 PM
#46
What a nightmare Simon... I hope you can get back on the road at as reasonable a cost for you as possible.
Second hand engines can be a gamble as you don't even have the real history of the car they were in, but some top advice from Danny there re options.
Second hand engines can be a gamble as you don't even have the real history of the car they were in, but some top advice from Danny there re options.
14 May 2010, 12:34 AM
#48
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Cheers Mate - was a bad day yesterday My original Map was done by Bob Rawle - so I'm not sure if the ECU is locked to Bob I'm guessing I'd have to have the tweek only which is far cheaper than a first Map.
I'd have no problem with JGM doing it if they were able, I'm just stuck now on what to do - possibly the Sti lump from Dave's, money that is in very short supply - as My engine could be shot completely with debris - Try and get the car back home and take the bits off myself (with some help ) to see what's what and what I can re-use.
The Sti route would probably be a better bet, as I would have to find a Jap Spec WRX engine otherwise, with the correct AVCS heads fitted to it - nightmare
Your parts list is growing there - Well done, won't be long now and you'll be running fine !!
Si
My original Map was done by Bob Rawle - so I'm not sure if the ECU is locked to Bob I'm guessing I'd have to have the tweek only which is far cheaper than a first Map.I'd have no problem with JGM doing it
if they were able, I'm just stuck now on what to do - possibly the Sti lump from Dave's, money that is in very short supply - as My engine could be shot completely with debris - Try and get the car back home and take the bits off myself (with some help ) to see what's what and what I can re-use.The Sti route would probably be a better bet, as I would have to find a Jap Spec WRX engine otherwise, with the correct AVCS heads fitted to it - nightmare
Your parts list is growing there - Well done, won't be long now and you'll be running fine !!
Si
the ecu will contain an ecutek licence and any ecutek dealer and can map it.
Simon
14 May 2010, 01:32 AM
#49
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Gutted for you Simon, been there myself and its not a good place. Dylan will see you good. Had mine rebuilt by Dave Coe and even though i had a few probs, i couldn't fault Daves service in correcting the faults, fair play.
Had mine rebuilt by Dave Coe and even though i had a few probs, i couldn't fault Daves service in correcting the faults, fair play.
- they were good as gold down in dave's - now getting the trailer sorted for the trip to Dylan's
14 May 2010, 10:35 PM
#53
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Richy(Welshy 12) Many thanks for driving me around today very kind of you I'll see you in the morning for part 2
Thanks too Tyron for letting me know about the engine part
And not forgetting Jimbobwrx for the frame
Top
very kind of you I'll see you in the morning for part 2 Thanks too Tyron for letting me know about the engine part
And not forgetting Jimbobwrx for the frame
Top
15 May 2010, 02:43 AM
#55
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Glad I could help.
With the A frame as long as you attach it like I said it will do the job easy peasy.
Just check after 1/4mile that the chains aren`t loosening, from the vibrations on the road as the twisted bar inside can twist the chains, so when the vibration loosens them the arms can come loose a little. But as long as you check and do them up SUPER tight its`ll be fine.
Same way my Scoob came home lol.
Oh and make sure ignition is ON as the towed car needs to be able to steer.
James.
With the A frame as long as you attach it like I said it will do the job easy peasy.
Just check after 1/4mile that the chains aren`t loosening, from the vibrations on the road as the twisted bar inside can twist the chains, so when the vibration loosens them the arms can come loose a little. But as long as you check and do them up SUPER tight its`ll be fine.
Same way my Scoob came home lol.
Oh and make sure ignition is ON as the towed car needs to be able to steer.
James.
15 May 2010, 11:36 AM
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not being funny mate but the build on yours it took the p@ss as how many times did they build it and how long did they have it im sure dylan will do a good job and if you need any help etc.. just give us a pm
