whatever boys wind my neck in my ****,why dont you go do atest on it yourself then instead off giving me greef,all i know is ive seen plenty off cases were the sniffer has shown nothing and its turned out to be head gasket so **** you both end of.

 

If it was at my garage I would.. but it ain't

 

this is silly lads i thought we scooby owners were supposed to stick together not argue about petty crap like this and when no body is wrong here,i bet youve seen it fuzz if you work in garage when the sniffer doesnt change but you just know its hg,am i right?

 

Chap: You're right, this is silly. And as far as "sticking together" is concerned, this is a discussion forum. You've ventured an opinion that is incorrect. Fuzz, myself, any anyone else who feels like it is more than entitled to disagree or ask you to explain further.

You're the one trying to pick the argument throughout. And each further post you write drags the thread back up to the top, and, I would suggest, does your reputation (and that of your garage) no favours whatsoever.

 

well lets just agree to disagree then fella and what happens on here has no effect on my garage trust,but i must admit u TALK agood job mate bet you could talk your way out of anything ah[bull**** baffles brains and all that lol]

 

Are you saying you have difficulty talking bullsh*t? Look pretty fluent to me.

 

quick on the banter aswell fella i c

 

Interested in how a sniffer test works. Does it test the water, like a litmus paper, or gases given off from contaminated water using a probe of some sorts?

 

why dont we let are resident knowledge bank splitpin explain all yours mate

 

will probably do a better job than you



Anyway, it tests the gasses yes, you don't dip the probe in the coolant, that would be bad..

 

well when your quoting straight out of text books its easy

 

I'm with you prodrive
Spermpin and fizz are just bummer boys

 

And you sir, are seemingly a Grade A idiot.

That's right, I did see your post before it was edited.

OP, Go with the advice of Splitpin and Andy(Fuzz), they know what they're talking about, unlike others.

 

Neil: "Oh no... my party's having an argument..."

 

What a bummer...

 

Rofl, oh dear.

Tim: The traditional stiff test involves aspirating air from the coolant system through a liquid which will pick up the HC residues and change colour.

You can also get dip strips which work as you say. Although, IIRC, these don't directly detect hydrocarbon contamination, they pick up the acidity that said contamination causes, as well as a range of other issues re. coolant condition.

 

...a pole and a dancer.

 

And presumably they work with low HC concentrations? Is there a spec (ppm maybe) for the HC level for reliable detection?

 

alright tim im a fraid there isn't any reliable amount or spec for the test,it either changes or it doesn't mate.

 

Tim, remember those litmus paper tests you did in chemistry at school?

Tony

 

Yep

Also remember trying to break up fights using logic and facts...and usually ended up with a bloody nose

 

Yes, they work with very low concentrations. Reaction threshold on the stuff I've got is noted as 20ppm on the label - hence prior comments about the evidence sticking around in the coolant even when the car is run off boost. I believe you can get more sensitive than that too.

 

20ppm...suggests that the test will trigger positive for even the faintest of traces then

 

your obviously working with the good stuff there,i take back my remark as myn doesnt note any parts per million.

 

Ahh...peace...

 

How many threads have you read today?

 

Hmmm not many... <scurries off to hit search>

 

SO. Been away for a week. Came back and did sniff test this morning. Fluid changed colour immediately, so plenty in there!

Took engine out, and took heads off, but the head bolts were all VERY slack. Checked a couple and they were less than 30Nm! They were all very similar slackness.

I definately torqued them all correctly, as I still have the piece of paper I was marking for each part of the sequence for each bolt, to make sure I didn't miss anything.

I've been through my receipts, and found that the only non genuine bits I used on the whole job were the bolts, and obviously the cometic gaskets.

Has anyone come across cheap bolts stretching, or these gaskets compressing from heat cycling?

It's wierd, as I remember them being pretty tight getting the angle on the bolts, and they just wound out when I went to remove them!

 

Eventually got the engine back in yesterday.

Basically, I had the heads skimmed, but they didn't need it as they just touched onto them and skimmed over without taking a cut as such and they cheaned up, so an absolute minimum was taken off.

I replaced the aftermarket bolts with arp studs, and It's absolutely fine now.

What I thought was knock to listen to and according to my knock meter was actually the one gasket flapping I think. My mate said this when we went for a test drive, and it turns out he was right. Almost no knock at all now, even with the knock meter set to full gain.

It's a bit annoying though that I bought the last set of bolts (the ones that stretched) from the same company that I bought the head gaskets from and it's cost me another £500 just because their bolts weren't up to oe spec!

Perhaps I can eventually get it mapped now!

 

bit of a mission mate by sounds of it,but you won in the end and thats what counts.good luck with the map.