alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Can't say whether rain would damage stuff, it will get in through the scoop if you have one, moreso when the car is in motion, won't it? And probably more through a vent if the car is at a standstill.

It was certainly something I had pondered when I thought of a vent in place of my scoop. I think I'd be worried about the elctrics getting wet......... After all, the coilpacks are on top of the engine. With a scoop AND a TMIC, any rain is directed down through the i/c and away, there's nowt under it to worry about. Now I have an FMIC, I'm not so sure.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes mother.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Somehow, that doesn't surprise me

No research on MY part, I DO know of some though My gauges show me EXACTLY what is happening under my bonnet, from temperature of inlet air, to ACT. Armed with those readings, you can see a) what your underbonnet temperature is like, and b) if your intercooler is doing it's job. Does that help?

Glad to hear it.........research is WAY better than uninformed opinion, I'm sure you'll agree?

Regards, Jeff.

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

It heat soaked and detted its self to death at 300bhpso why doesn't that happen to the rb320 then?seems more like you had other problems than heat soak jeff as at 300 your hardly pushing the boundaries or running any more than alot at standard.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it had the head gaskets replaced about 8 months prior to it's demise, and the heads were skimmed but I don't think the garage set out to ensure that the compression ratio remained the same.

However, and it's a BIG however, when it DID go, it had been running at silly speeds on an almost empty French motorway for about an hour and a quarter, then approached a toll, queued and blasted away. All this in daytime temperatures of 40 degrees. The result was, I'm told, inevitable.

The RB320? Well it's not that far over spec, is it, really? And has a decent i/c to start with. Mine is/was a standard UK car, 208 bhp, running 300+, so uprated by nearly 45%. That's a fair wack, under those conditions.

Now do you see why I'm a bit paranoid about underbonnet/induction temperatures?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it had the head gaskets replaced about 8 months prior to it's demise, and the heads were skimmed but I don't think the garage set out to ensure that the compression ratio remained the same.

However, and it's a BIG however, when it DID go, it had been running at silly speeds on an almost empty French motorway for about an hour and a quarter, then approached a toll, queued and blasted away. All this in daytime temperatures of 40 degrees. The result was, I'm told, inevitable.

The RB320? Well it's not that far over spec, is it, really? And has a decent i/c to start with. Mine is/was a standard UK car, 208 bhp, running 300+, so uprated by nearly 45%. That's a fair wack, under those conditions.

Now do you see why I'm a bit paranoid about underbonnet/induction temperatures?

scoobyboy

hence why the prodrive map reduces power when the intake temp goes over 40 degrees......to stop it killing itself!

Mus

iTrader: (2)

I thought a vent or reverse scoop helped to got rid of the hot air quicker but then again it depends I used to get fuel cut maybe due to coil packs not sure.. usually after a long drive in the rain so I drove it off boost till everything was dry Again just to be safe as I hate fuel cut it's Similar feeling when dropping your mobile phone on the ground ouch!!!

rogos

so basicly you cooked it.

rogos

no mate it will be fine my only advice would be to use an electrical lacquer to insulate/weatherproof any electrical plugs that may sit under the vent . if anything you will benefit from it because the hot engine bay air will escape through it thus greating a depression under the bonnet and drawing even more cooler air in through the front which in turn means an even cooler engine bay and better radiator cooling.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Which is what I thought.

But research shows that it has the opposite effect. The engine bay was actually hotter. Ask Harvey.

Big 'D'

I wonder if they did any research on the Gobstopper?

After all it had a vent in place of a scoop

If a vent on the bonnet has been designed to act as a vent, whilst moving the airflow over the vent will actually draw air out from the engine bay.

Most, if not all of the electric connections in the engine bay are allready sealed off pretty well from the elements but spraying the connections with a sealer will defo not hurt, I have not bothered and in 2 years and I have had no electrical, detination or any other issues relating to the fittment of my vent.


Cheers Iain

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

A louvered vent is different from a regular vent (e.g the small ones on a classic with blanking plates) the lourves are designed to draw air out. If you look at the RS ford they had louvered vents that were not blanked off and used to draw hot air out.

http://www.raceace.com/

Banny

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

1. The Gobstopper is a TA car. It is never going to be subject to over 100mph for an hour and a half, now is it?

2. Vents MIGHT draw the air out. The scoop WILL force air in and down over the engine to cool it.

Banny, you should know better than to quote what works on a Ford as being something that will work on a Scoob

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

1. The Gobstopper is a TA car. It is never going to be subject to over 100mph for an hour and a half, now is it?

2. Vents MIGHT draw the air out. The scoop WILL force air in and down over the engine to cool it.

Banny, you should know better than to quote what works on a Ford as being something that will work on a Scoob

Big 'D'

You seem to have an answer for everything, I guess we should all just give up and bow down to your obviously superior knowledge

Was there not an issue with the std scoop being inefficient at high speed ie the air is deflected over the scoop not through it, and besides any air forced through the scoop at high speed will be directed to the back of the scoop and over the gearbox not the engine, I will be sticking with the vent

Cheers Iain

Big 'D'

Oh and regards the Gobstopper, is heat not a byproduct of producing power ie if you have more power you will produce more heat, so really the Gobstopper is probably subject to more heat than your car will ever see from its engine and is probably a good example to use in this instance, if superior cooling can be achieved from a scoop then why are most high performance cars using vents?

Cheers Iain

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Lets stick to your first post above and my superior knowledge, eh?

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

Well I have not blown my car up so far and it sits quite happily at 150mph

Banny

53

iTrader: (41)

I vote for turbo/gearbox cooling, keep the scoop Better to hit your FMIC pipes with fast cool air than draw all the warm air out passed them IMHO, nothing more nothing less

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

Loving this thread,making me laugh loads.
Fact of the matter Jeff is that you cooked your motor through not uprating the right parts ie engine first,and it would also appear that it can't have been setup right as there are plenty out there running 300 on that engine with no problems mate.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

But for how long, Banny? At a time, I mean, and in what outside temperatures?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

What parts of the engine would you have uprated, pdr? It HAD a better intercooler than standard, although still TM.

Set up right? Well Bob Rawle did it, originally, so I don't think that can have been the problem

But, as I said earlier, the headgaskets had been done 8 months earlier, and they were NOT fitted so as to keep compression ratio standard, after the heads were skimmed.

Nope, discussion with some of the more trusted tuners on here has led me to believe that it was down partly to the headgaskets thickness and partly due to heatsoak. I am sure that, had I known then what I NOW know, it wouldn't have happened. But running for quite a long time at daft speeds, followed by an enforced queue, then away again, wasn't, with hindsight, a good idea. I MIGHT have got away with it, had the outside temperatures not been in the 40's............... Or had I had an act gauge to SHOW me what was happening I'd like to bet they were well over 70 degrees.

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

About 5-7 minutes and outside temp I would imagine about 15C but it is not something I make a habit of doing. For me the vent works as the water temps are cooler, oil temp never goes much above 100c and the ecu is constantly monitoring charge temps, so if there was an issue the ecu would provide adequate safety

Banny

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Understood, but look at what my poor car suffered............

Terminator X

iTrader: (7)

What on earth prompted such abuse?

TX.

trogg

^^

posts 35 and 36.

They are the same so you just need to read one of them.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Coming home off a holiday, lovely weather, not much traffic, car pulling well, all the windows down, looking forward to seeing the wife again, (she'd been in Australia for the summer), looking forward to being on the ferry and a decent meal, a few beers, then a good night's rest.

Not really thinking about the possible effects and didn't know really what might happen, and especially about the compression ratio

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

Im currently doing some extensive mods on myn now Jeff and the first port of call was the engine ie forged pistons/steel rods and race bearings with MLS hg's so the foundations are set right but with what you have said it just sounds like you gave it to much for to long in really hot temps boy lol

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Yep

My rebuild has a 2.5 with forged rods and pistons, and an FMIC. The KnockLink is hidden and the LEDs are relocated to eyeline. A fuel pressure gauge is fitted, linked to the boost gauge to show differential pressure, and there are FOUR thermometers

Well, two are inside/outside