joz8968

iTrader: (13)

<groan> Here we go again...........

billsandhu

You wont find a relocated oil filter/instructions in the manual either

Better to be safe.

jayallen

iTrader: (31)

You took the words right from my mouth Joz..

*subscribed* i can feel a 20+ page thread coming on

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

im already subscribed mate

my94wrx

iTrader: (4)

i am not trying to start a debate,
while i tend to agree with not disconnecting the crank sensor, on this occasion it is required due the fact of the op not being able to prime the modified oil system to put the oil pressure light out,
simply telling him to fire the engine which has been dry cranked considerably with no sign of oil pressure is only going to achieve one thing, disaster for the op.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

agreed.... Not the thing to do.

because the filter has been relocated it may not have an easy job to build pressure to get it to the new filter location. Pre-filling oil pipes may help, as could taking out the pressure sender switch on top of cylinder 2 and filling down that gallery.

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

If the filter hangs vertically down (as in the normal Subaru configaration) it doesn't need a anti-drain-back valve.
I assume the bulkhead mounted filter is arranged that way?

JohnD

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

Thanks gents- didnt really progress this evening, and off for a few days , so back with vigour then!

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

Bulkhead filter is upside down as originally, just higher up with much longer oil lines, plus the cooler takes a litre of oil itself.

I havent had a chance to work on the car, but its the weekend so here we go. I have two questions:

- The plugs- can I just loosen them off, or do they have to come completely out?
- The crank sensor- can I unplug the big grey plug (you can see it in the pic in the first page) or how do I do it?

Cheers

Grant

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Plugs need to be out else you will still get some compression in there

Crank sensor can be unplugged from just to the left of the alternator - you can see the sensor on top of the block. Pretty easy to clip that off

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Plugs need to be out else you will still get some compression in there

Crank sensor can be unplugged from just to the left of the alternator - you can see the sensor on top of the block. Pretty easy to clip that off

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Duncan- will try the sensor on cyl 2 as well.

Im glad to say its raining, so no doubt that will help

dabow

iTrader: (19)

have you fitted a thermostaticly controled sandwich plate?
as untill hot, nothing will/should flow to the oil cooler.

as aboth, once you do a service, you should unplug the crank sensor to let the new oil prime the pump & flow through the engine
this way the car wont fire up.

if theres no oil presure, the only thing that could do this, apart from say a bad leak, is the oil pump its self. there manual driven via the crank.
since the oil presure light is on, theres no presure

one way to check to see if you have oil presure, is disconect the crank sensor. then slightly discounect the main presure switch/sender where your oil presure gauge should be, then crank it over slightly (remember to put a bag or something over it for the oil) or oil will cover every thing. if the oil shoots out you have presure from the pump

if so its just the presure switch thats naf
if no oil shoots out, its your oil pump thats gone.

FB Tuning

iTrader: (30)

Don't do what this guy suggests, it'll more than likely end in disaster

As recommended above, disconnect cam and crank sensors and remove spark plugs before cranking again.

It's also worth connecting a battery jump pack to your battery (or jump leads and another fully charged battery) to improve the cranking speed and oil pump speed.

Once you start cranking don't stop - just keep going for a good 30 seconds or so until you see pressure on your gauge, or the OE oil dash light goes out.

If you still don't get any pressure in the system, i would be removing the oil pump and checking all the pan head screws on the back of the pump cover are tight.

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

No thermostatic plate fitted, so got time tomorrow to get into it. Strangely, its rtemoving the plugs I worry about the most- its a PITA job.

Spoek to API who changed it last time, and they also said fill lines etc, so tomorrow is D day.

We have the rally here next weekend, so dont want to turn up in my land rover!

If you want a laugh, also had an air lock in our radiator system in the house, so its bleeding everything (get it! very bad!)

dabow

iTrader: (19)

fill lines?

taking the plugs out is the easy part mate.
take the air filter out, and the battery the other to gain the most access to them.
no really issue, to test the oil presure, you dont really need to take the plugs out. only if your doing a compresion test

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

Yeah- going to fill the lines tomorrow. Cheers for the tip on removing the plugs.

One more question I do have- I presume the cranking will create enough pressure to make the oil light go out? I know that sounds pretty dumb, but the power to my electronic oil gauge goes when Im cranking so I get no exact readings

dabow

iTrader: (19)

yes, the oil pump is atached to the crank, so just turning the engine will pump the oil.
if you read the reply i put, disconect the crank sencor. on top of the block, where you should have conected the oil presure sensor, is the most directive presure point. so by loosening that, then turning the engine. you will be able to tell you have have oil presure or not.
if you do, its just your oil presure switch, but if you get nothing, its more than likly your oil pump gone. commen too

im sure some will agrea to what ive put too

dabow

iTrader: (19)

just one more thing, you didnt happen to disconect the oil presure switch on the block did you?

and you have a sandwich plate with a macanical oil presure gauge plumbed in where your filter goes....

just, from what you have put. has it all been connected up proper ect.

Jamz_

iTrader: (12)

Or even easyer if you have a front mount, to unplug the main connector (Gray Connector)

dabow

iTrader: (19)

im alittle lost with the last post, front mount, with a grey connector?

may be im more shattereed than i throught.

L.J.F

iTrader: (31)

You could also just remove the fuse for the fuel pump, it's easier than than removing crank sensor

L.J.F

iTrader: (31)

You obviously cant grasp what the OP has said! Tw@ts like you should be banned from giving advice on this forum because you are like the Dr Death of the car world!


I hate know-it-all's

dabow

iTrader: (19)

still the most simple way is the crank sensor. open bonnet, disconect and thats it.
dont even think its marked down as easy as to find the crank sensor

L.J.F

iTrader: (31)

i find trying to get your hands on the sensor can be a pain.. Especially if the sensor has not been removed before and is stuck fast.

Jamz_

iTrader: (12)

Which is why i was saying if you have a front mount intercooler, and have removed the top mount intercooler, all the main engine connectors are under the top mount.

So without the top mount there, you can easily disconnect the main connectors, and the CPS is the one with the gray connector plug.

shepster

iTrader: (2)

Grant, you sorted this yet? Could pop by over the weekend if your still stuck. Let me know

dabow

iTrader: (19)

i'll give you that mate, i have had a couple like this.
but its still the far easyest to find for any engine modder

dabow

iTrader: (19)

was about to offer that if not to far from me. the top mount dont need to come off at all, as the sensor is just under the alternator

to undo the oil presure switch, you only need to take the alternator off.
granted, if it happens to be the pump, the belt and that will need to come off, but taking the rad off will solve that

Grant74

iTrader: (10)

Update- Im wet and car isnt changing.

I am struggling to get all the plugs out to start. Im using the tool in the attached pic, and cant seem to get it onto the plug itself. Im wondering if I need a better spark plug removal tool?



I dont really want to undo the oil pressure sensor if I dont have to, as have an adaptor plate on there, and remember the threads being weak.

I also dont know if I have undone the right sensor for the crank? Its the one in the pic I have undone.



Alternatively, do you mean this grey plug?



Oil lines filled, sort of, but here is what happened. The oil line that goes to the oil cooler was fully filled, and oil filter still has oil in it. The other line, which I presume goes to the sump, wouldnt fill. Is that because it does go to the sump?

Shepster- im on 0**00 726530 if you can pop up in this beautiful weather!

What I dont understand is whether the oil light will actually go out when cranking the engine or not?