Changed oil and lost pressure?
02 October 2010, 04:29 PM
#61
The middle picture shows the camshaft position sensor. The crank sensor is directly above the crank pully, under the alternator. Fiddly, but do-able
Your box spanner for the plugs is no good. You need a proper plug socket and a choice of extensions to get the length right. The clearance available also varies slightly from one head to the other!
JohnD
Your box spanner for the plugs is no good. You need a proper plug socket and a choice of extensions to get the length right. The clearance available also varies slightly from one head to the other!
JohnD
Last edited by JohnD; 02 October 2010 at 04:32 PM.
02 October 2010, 06:27 PM
#62
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Right- sorted.
Firstly, a huge thankyou to Shepster, who kindly gave up his whole afternoon, and got dirtier than he wanted Im sure, to help me solve it.
The basic issue was that the oil lines going to the filter were the wrong way around, and have always been! Seems to have not been a problem with the old filters, but the new filters must have better one way valves. This was highlighted by cranking the engine without a filter in place!
Couple of other points for people doing this:
- The oil light will go out when cranking if there is oil pressure
- You do need a proper spark plug socket set to get them out- the box one was rubbish (as you guys said- its a 16mm)
- the engine will still turn with crank and cam sensors disconnected.
As I said, couldnt have done this without the help- very much appreciated James.
All in, it shouldnt have been this difficult, so if you are fiunding it is, check the basics (but thats hardly new)
Firstly, a huge thankyou to Shepster, who kindly gave up his whole afternoon, and got dirtier than he wanted Im sure, to help me solve it.
The basic issue was that the oil lines going to the filter were the wrong way around, and have always been! Seems to have not been a problem with the old filters, but the new filters must have better one way valves. This was highlighted by cranking the engine without a filter in place!
Couple of other points for people doing this:
- The oil light will go out when cranking if there is oil pressure
- You do need a proper spark plug socket set to get them out- the box one was rubbish (as you guys said- its a 16mm)
- the engine will still turn with crank and cam sensors disconnected.
As I said, couldnt have done this without the help- very much appreciated James.
All in, it shouldnt have been this difficult, so if you are fiunding it is, check the basics (but thats hardly new)
Last edited by Grant74; 02 October 2010 at 06:30 PM.
Now you just need to drive it faster 
04 October 2010, 09:25 AM
#65
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Do it by all means, but keep a careful note of the following; you WILL need it someday.
API Impreza
3 & 4 Churchlands Farm Ind. Est.
Bascote Road
Harbury
Warwickshire
CV33 9PL England
Phone 44 [0] 1926 614333
Fax 44 [0] 1926 614907
www.apiengines.com/index3.php
dob@apiengines.com
04 October 2010, 04:07 PM
#66
Right- sorted.
The basic issue was that the oil lines going to the filter were the wrong way around, and have always been! Seems to have not been a problem with the old filters, but the new filters must have better one way valves. This was highlighted by cranking the engine without a filter in place!
)
The basic issue was that the oil lines going to the filter were the wrong way around, and have always been! Seems to have not been a problem with the old filters, but the new filters must have better one way valves. This was highlighted by cranking the engine without a filter in place!
)
Assuming the filter had a valve fitted (some after market filters for the Impreza don't have one as it's not necessary with the "hang down" configuration) I'm amazed you haven't suffered bearing failure! Let's hope the previous filter was one of those after-market ones!JohnD
04 October 2010, 05:31 PM
#67
My thoughts exactly, i was surprised when Grant said it had been working like that and the only thing he had changed was the filter. He's done tracks and hill climbs, hopefully with no lasting damage
04 October 2010, 07:13 PM
#68
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That ws an original Subaru filter, but old type.
The only plus side is that I do have a hyperactive oil pressure gauge and Im paranoid about it, so I know oil pressure has been fine at least.
Only just got a battery charger, and need to clean plugs, so will know tonight if all is genuinely well.
The only plus side is that I do have a hyperactive oil pressure gauge and Im paranoid about it, so I know oil pressure has been fine at least.
Only just got a battery charger, and need to clean plugs, so will know tonight if all is genuinely well.
04 October 2010, 11:12 PM
#69
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Last update I hope- cleaned plugs and fired her up with full oil pressure, and even emptied the oil a little- too difficult to check levels further until its been for a gentle drive and warmed up, as dipstick tube is full of the oil that splashed up before.
I have the digital oil pressure sensor so will monitor it for a short drive, and then recheck levels.
Most of the advice on here and tips deserve a sticky! Cheers gents
I have the digital oil pressure sensor so will monitor it for a short drive, and then recheck levels.
Most of the advice on here and tips deserve a sticky! Cheers gents
11 October 2010, 07:30 PM
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Update- oil levels are back to normal after a little draining, but oil pressure is higher than before, which I suppose I should expect!
44lbs on warm idle and 90lbs on boost- was previously 30lbs on idle and 80lbs on boost.
Do the new readings sound high?
44lbs on warm idle and 90lbs on boost- was previously 30lbs on idle and 80lbs on boost.
Do the new readings sound high?
11 October 2010, 10:58 PM
#71
JohnD
12 October 2010, 09:27 AM
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I agree, We recommend 10or15W/40 or 10or15W/50 of a 'proper' branded oil. Either fully or semi synth.
The 10W/60 will sap power as it is too thick.
David APi
The 10W/60 will sap power as it is too thick.
David APi
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