APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

P1's are no better or worse reliability wise, than any other 99/00 GC8 - they suffer with MAF problems and if the maf is up the creek, the engine will follow it soon after.

The damn CEL doesn't come on when it should and more often than not comes on for no reason at all [ relatively speaking ..... ]

It is rare to suck bits into the turbo, not unheard of, but not common. He must have really pissed his guardian angel off somehow.

And any Subaru turbo hates being run low on fuel. If there are 15 cars in my works for engine attention, I would bet a decent amount of my pension that they all have less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel.

Run 'em low at your own peril......

I agree, tough on the OP, but it is also a fact of life, that many of my customers in for engine work, have either;

1, recently had a service
or
2/ just bought the car.

David

sparkytrix

Gotta love Davids honesty

hope you get it fixed mate!

arumdevil

sounds like these guys have it pinned down. I must say I cringed a bit when you said you put ultimate in

This is a long shot, but if it turns out not to be the bottom end - I had something happen last year in my legacy that started as a strange ticking/tapping sound and then all of a sudden got really load and nasty sounding. My first thought was bottom end (having never actually heard a failed one first hand), but it turned out one of the timing idler pulleys had disintegrated it's bearing and collapsed, it's teeth grinding agains the oil pump.

Luckily the belt didn't slip and it caused no further damage.

Anyway, hope by some miracle it turns out to be something simple.

sandyRS16i

iTrader: (13)

While the fuel issues are commonly known, whats likely to occur after a service that would cause failure to be more likely than after say a further period of time?

Just wondering as many years ago I had an engine fail only a few 100 miles after a service and was convinced the 2 were connected however the garage (main stealer) at the time wanted nothing to do with it and adament it was nothing to do with them - plus it was JDM so they didnt give a hoot.

Is there an inherent fault that people make at service time which can increase risks?

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

I don't fully agree with that as ive heard plenty with 'clicks' in theses engines that have carried on going for many more miles,not that im saying the op's car hasn't got a big end failure,but it isn't always bad when you hear clicks from the ej engine.

Ste RB5138

Thats really bad luck if it is you bottom end, especially after driving that far to collect the car.

I have always been wary of letting the needle drop below a quarter of a tank after hearing advice from folks on here.

arumdevil

Not experienced it myself, but heard many horror stories of subaru's getting serviced and then bottom ends going - due to lack of oil or some claim not cranking over with the crank sensor out after an oil change. Personally I've never done that but I always fill the oil filter right up before putting it on.

angry_boy

Me too

There was half a tank or so of Vpower when i topped up with BP. Would of dropped the octane level, not sure by how much tho.

angry_boy

UPDATE:
Spoke to Andrew @ David Hendry, Malmesbury, got an appointment at 2.30 this arvo.
Seemed very pleasent and knowledgeable to speak too.
Fingers crossed time!!

Cheers
Sam

alp27

good luck fella, hope you get it sorted

54_WRX

iTrader: (3)

Fingers crossed dude

KickboxingCrazy

iTrader: (15)

when you said bp ultimate i thought oh dear. also i would NEVER of gave a car ive just bought beans untill i got it home and checked oil and the rest of the car over with a tooth comb, im not telling you how to suck eggs but i always poodle home in a new car. also you need to get the car properly diagnosed not just a click noise and curtain tuners telling you an engine rebuild is needed without even getting the car to look at lol
let us know what happens

KickboxingCrazy

iTrader: (15)

when you said bp ultimate i thought oh dear. also i would NEVER of gave a car ive just bought beans untill i got it home and checked oil and the rest of the car over with a tooth comb, im not telling you how to suck eggs but i always poodle home in a new car. also you need to get the car properly diagnosed not just a click noise and curtain tuners telling you an engine rebuild is needed without even getting the car to look at lol
let us know what happens

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Good luck Sam.



The OP has the car booked in for a professional diagnostic session this afternoon.

As APIDavid (who i pressume you mean by 'certain tuners') rebuilt this engine 25k ago, i consider him to be very well placed to offer his views on the situation.
FWIW, APIDavid FTW. Though i hope for the OP's sake, that both David and i are wrong.

I fear we shall soon find out.

Dan W

I second that.

angry_boy

+1 for.......




























David @ API and b13bat!!!

The mechanic at Hendrys was in no doubt as to the problem!! Bottom end rebuild required!!
Now the question, do I
a) Go standard
b) Go forged
c) Go and sulk in the corner!!

Got a rough quote from Hendry's for the work which seems reasonable and includes a 12 month warranty. I will also be speaking to API tomorrow.
Anyone had any dealings with Norris Designs with their Scoobies? Used him a few times for my Pulsar's and Evo, with varied results, but he is local.

Is it worth buying the parts and have a go at the re-build myself? (with some expert guidance of course!!)
Unless theres anyone out there willing to work for free beer and cider!!??

scooby L

Adrian looked at it I'm guessing..

sorry to hear that mate..time to forge it..

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Bugga! Sorry Sam.

Look at it as an opportunity. Bigger, better, stronger.


IMHO, it is always worth doing it yourself. Imagine the self satisfaction

All the best which ever way you go Sam.



ps A good sulk never hurt anyone.

stef_2010

iTrader: (3)

Sulk in the corner

I feel for you mate, I've just spent 3.5K on mine after nakering it

angry_boy

Hendry's has quoted 2.5k which would include;

1no Con Rod
1no Engine Gasket Set
1no RH Rocker Gasket
1no LH Rocker Gasket
4no Rocker Chest Gasket
4no Plug Cylinder Head
16no Washer Rocker
1no Grey Sealer
1no Air Flow Meter
1no Crank Shaft
1no ACL Race Bearing Set
1no Oil Pump
1no Gasket Exhaust Centre
1no Gasket Turbo
1no Gasket
1no Gasket Turbo-Downpipe
1no Belt Timing Turbo 94-
3no Anti Freeze
4no Helix F 5W-30
1no Stud Turbo
4no Flange Nut
1no Oil Cooler


Obviously when they break the block down then they can give a true estimate, but based on a previous rebuild this is what they quoted.

All parts are new and the whole job carries a 12month warranty

Would this sound reasonable?

Fuzz

That's a comparable price to sticking in a whole new bottom end straight out of the box from Subaru.
If you are going to be spending that sort of money anyway I wouldn't mess about with splitting the block and replacing just the knackered bits.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

See my post #26 and then call me Wednesday morning.

David APi

ScoobLou

iTrader: (21)

Can putting in BP Ultimate really knacker the engine!

I always run mine on V-Power as thats what its been mapped for but didn't realise putting in different petrol could cause the above!

These cars really are sensitive flowers.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

To the OP, I put my vote in for API too.

David looked after me well when my 135k gearbox went. His gearbox guy built me a nice freshly reconed unit and it was posted safe wrapped on an overnight pallet to a (then) local specialists where it was fitted.

Wouldn't have anyone else do major gearbox/engine work. You'll find that it's not always about the cost but also the service, knowledge and integrity of the person doing the work.

Good luck buddy.... and GO FORGED

angry_boy

How about a 2.1 stroker?!! Hmmm tempting.
Any thoughts?

Dave Y

iTrader: (52)

so whats the plan for the engine?

angry_boy

Still not decided yet, theres a few forged units for sale on here so may get one of them. Then at least I will still have my engine and I can either break it or rebuild it at my leisure!!

Gordo

Sorry to hear about this, mate.

I've had a P1 from new and mine coughed its guts soon after a main dealer service - the MAF sensor failed (I suspect because they 'dry-cranked' it after the oil change, rather than manually doing it to lube the system, but I could be talking pants - needless to say it's now looked after by a chap I trust, and hasn't been near a main dealer since. They did sort it under extended warranty - £6k).

After the re-build I had mine mapped to Shell Optimax (and a few other bits done) - I wouldn't dream of putting anything less than 98 Ron in it now, and only currently trust either Shell or (if desperate) Tesco Super.

Good luck - the work sounds sensibly priced to me.

Gordo

James Neill

iTrader: (1)

I have a Knocklink in my STi6 and its very obvious that V-Power (or Tesco 99) is much better than BP Ultimate. Admittedly it was mapped for Tesco 99, but it works well with V-Power too. Only ever used BP Ultimate the once in an emergency - won't do it again.