Un-Lucky or what...
#31
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P1's are no better or worse reliability wise, than any other 99/00 GC8 - they suffer with MAF problems and if the maf is up the creek, the engine will follow it soon after.
The damn CEL doesn't come on when it should and more often than not comes on for no reason at all [ relatively speaking ..... ]
It is rare to suck bits into the turbo, not unheard of, but not common. He must have really pissed his guardian angel off somehow.
And any Subaru turbo hates being run low on fuel. If there are 15 cars in my works for engine attention, I would bet a decent amount of my pension that they all have less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel.
Run 'em low at your own peril......
I agree, tough on the OP, but it is also a fact of life, that many of my customers in for engine work, have either;
1, recently had a service
or
2/ just bought the car.
David
#33
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sounds like these guys have it pinned down. I must say I cringed a bit when you said you put ultimate in
This is a long shot, but if it turns out not to be the bottom end - I had something happen last year in my legacy that started as a strange ticking/tapping sound and then all of a sudden got really load and nasty sounding. My first thought was bottom end (having never actually heard a failed one first hand), but it turned out one of the timing idler pulleys had disintegrated it's bearing and collapsed, it's teeth grinding agains the oil pump.
Luckily the belt didn't slip and it caused no further damage.
Anyway, hope by some miracle it turns out to be something simple.
This is a long shot, but if it turns out not to be the bottom end - I had something happen last year in my legacy that started as a strange ticking/tapping sound and then all of a sudden got really load and nasty sounding. My first thought was bottom end (having never actually heard a failed one first hand), but it turned out one of the timing idler pulleys had disintegrated it's bearing and collapsed, it's teeth grinding agains the oil pump.
Luckily the belt didn't slip and it caused no further damage.
Anyway, hope by some miracle it turns out to be something simple.
#34
Just wondering as many years ago I had an engine fail only a few 100 miles after a service and was convinced the 2 were connected however the garage (main stealer) at the time wanted nothing to do with it and adament it was nothing to do with them - plus it was JDM so they didnt give a hoot.
Is there an inherent fault that people make at service time which can increase risks?
#35
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BP ultimate + p1 + spirited drive = 'click'
Which is a big end failure on an EJ engine.
Ultimate is no better than 97 on a good day and is unsuitable for lmpreza turbos.
Assuming all else is OK, the engine will need a new crank and bearings, 1 con rod, gaskets and seals. We do that, drive in - drive out £1500.00 + VAT.
No catches.
I am out of the office until weds AM call me then if we can help.
David APi
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Which is a big end failure on an EJ engine.
Ultimate is no better than 97 on a good day and is unsuitable for lmpreza turbos.
Assuming all else is OK, the engine will need a new crank and bearings, 1 con rod, gaskets and seals. We do that, drive in - drive out £1500.00 + VAT.
No catches.
I am out of the office until weds AM call me then if we can help.
David APi
Agents for:
Simtek, the most exciting new Ecu for years
Buddy Club exhausts
Scoobysport exhausts
Eibach suspension
Hybrid front mount intercooler kits
AP Racing brakes and clutches
And of course; the well known APi Performance Exedy organic clutch
www.apiengines.com
01926 614333
#36
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Thats really bad luck if it is you bottom end, especially after driving that far to collect the car.
I have always been wary of letting the needle drop below a quarter of a tank after hearing advice from folks on here.
I have always been wary of letting the needle drop below a quarter of a tank after hearing advice from folks on here.
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While the fuel issues are commonly known, whats likely to occur after a service that would cause failure to be more likely than after say a further period of time?
Just wondering as many years ago I had an engine fail only a few 100 miles after a service and was convinced the 2 were connected however the garage (main stealer) at the time wanted nothing to do with it and adament it was nothing to do with them - plus it was JDM so they didnt give a hoot.
Is there an inherent fault that people make at service time which can increase risks?
Just wondering as many years ago I had an engine fail only a few 100 miles after a service and was convinced the 2 were connected however the garage (main stealer) at the time wanted nothing to do with it and adament it was nothing to do with them - plus it was JDM so they didnt give a hoot.
Is there an inherent fault that people make at service time which can increase risks?
#38
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There was half a tank or so of Vpower when i topped up with BP. Would of dropped the octane level, not sure by how much tho.
#39
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UPDATE:
Spoke to Andrew @ David Hendry, Malmesbury, got an appointment at 2.30 this arvo.
Seemed very pleasent and knowledgeable to speak too.
Fingers crossed time!!
Cheers
Sam
Spoke to Andrew @ David Hendry, Malmesbury, got an appointment at 2.30 this arvo.
Seemed very pleasent and knowledgeable to speak too.
Fingers crossed time!!
Cheers
Sam
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when you said bp ultimate i thought oh dear. also i would NEVER of gave a car ive just bought beans untill i got it home and checked oil and the rest of the car over with a tooth comb, im not telling you how to suck eggs but i always poodle home in a new car. also you need to get the car properly diagnosed not just a click noise and curtain tuners telling you an engine rebuild is needed without even getting the car to look at lol
let us know what happens
let us know what happens
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when you said bp ultimate i thought oh dear. also i would NEVER of gave a car ive just bought beans untill i got it home and checked oil and the rest of the car over with a tooth comb, im not telling you how to suck eggs but i always poodle home in a new car. also you need to get the car properly diagnosed not just a click noise and curtain tuners telling you an engine rebuild is needed without even getting the car to look at lol
let us know what happens
let us know what happens
#45
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Good luck Sam.
The OP has the car booked in for a professional diagnostic session this afternoon.
As APIDavid (who i pressume you mean by 'certain tuners') rebuilt this engine 25k ago, i consider him to be very well placed to offer his views on the situation.
FWIW, APIDavid FTW. Though i hope for the OP's sake, that both David and i are wrong.
I fear we shall soon find out.
The OP has the car booked in for a professional diagnostic session this afternoon.
As APIDavid (who i pressume you mean by 'certain tuners') rebuilt this engine 25k ago, i consider him to be very well placed to offer his views on the situation.
FWIW, APIDavid FTW. Though i hope for the OP's sake, that both David and i are wrong.
I fear we shall soon find out.
Last edited by Glowplug; 19 October 2010 at 03:30 PM.
#47
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+1 for.......
David @ API and b13bat!!!
The mechanic at Hendrys was in no doubt as to the problem!! Bottom end rebuild required!!
Now the question, do I
a) Go standard
b) Go forged
c) Go and sulk in the corner!!
Got a rough quote from Hendry's for the work which seems reasonable and includes a 12 month warranty. I will also be speaking to API tomorrow.
Anyone had any dealings with Norris Designs with their Scoobies? Used him a few times for my Pulsar's and Evo, with varied results, but he is local.
Is it worth buying the parts and have a go at the re-build myself? (with some expert guidance of course!!)
Unless theres anyone out there willing to work for free beer and cider!!??
David @ API and b13bat!!!
The mechanic at Hendrys was in no doubt as to the problem!! Bottom end rebuild required!!
Now the question, do I
a) Go standard
b) Go forged
c) Go and sulk in the corner!!
Got a rough quote from Hendry's for the work which seems reasonable and includes a 12 month warranty. I will also be speaking to API tomorrow.
Anyone had any dealings with Norris Designs with their Scoobies? Used him a few times for my Pulsar's and Evo, with varied results, but he is local.
Is it worth buying the parts and have a go at the re-build myself? (with some expert guidance of course!!)
Unless theres anyone out there willing to work for free beer and cider!!??
#49
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Bugga! Sorry Sam.
Look at it as an opportunity. Bigger, better, stronger.
IMHO, it is always worth doing it yourself. Imagine the self satisfaction
All the best which ever way you go Sam.
ps A good sulk never hurt anyone.
Look at it as an opportunity. Bigger, better, stronger.
IMHO, it is always worth doing it yourself. Imagine the self satisfaction
All the best which ever way you go Sam.
ps A good sulk never hurt anyone.
Last edited by Glowplug; 19 October 2010 at 04:48 PM.
#51
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Hendry's has quoted 2.5k which would include;
1no Con Rod
1no Engine Gasket Set
1no RH Rocker Gasket
1no LH Rocker Gasket
4no Rocker Chest Gasket
4no Plug Cylinder Head
16no Washer Rocker
1no Grey Sealer
1no Air Flow Meter
1no Crank Shaft
1no ACL Race Bearing Set
1no Oil Pump
1no Gasket Exhaust Centre
1no Gasket Turbo
1no Gasket
1no Gasket Turbo-Downpipe
1no Belt Timing Turbo 94-
3no Anti Freeze
4no Helix F 5W-30
1no Stud Turbo
4no Flange Nut
1no Oil Cooler
Obviously when they break the block down then they can give a true estimate, but based on a previous rebuild this is what they quoted.
All parts are new and the whole job carries a 12month warranty
Would this sound reasonable?
1no Con Rod
1no Engine Gasket Set
1no RH Rocker Gasket
1no LH Rocker Gasket
4no Rocker Chest Gasket
4no Plug Cylinder Head
16no Washer Rocker
1no Grey Sealer
1no Air Flow Meter
1no Crank Shaft
1no ACL Race Bearing Set
1no Oil Pump
1no Gasket Exhaust Centre
1no Gasket Turbo
1no Gasket
1no Gasket Turbo-Downpipe
1no Belt Timing Turbo 94-
3no Anti Freeze
4no Helix F 5W-30
1no Stud Turbo
4no Flange Nut
1no Oil Cooler
Obviously when they break the block down then they can give a true estimate, but based on a previous rebuild this is what they quoted.
All parts are new and the whole job carries a 12month warranty
Would this sound reasonable?
#52
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That's a comparable price to sticking in a whole new bottom end straight out of the box from Subaru.
If you are going to be spending that sort of money anyway I wouldn't mess about with splitting the block and replacing just the knackered bits.
If you are going to be spending that sort of money anyway I wouldn't mess about with splitting the block and replacing just the knackered bits.
#53
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Hendry's has quoted 2.5k which would include;
1no Con Rod
1no Engine Gasket Set
1no RH Rocker Gasket
1no LH Rocker Gasket
4no Rocker Chest Gasket
4no Plug Cylinder Head
16no Washer Rocker
1no Grey Sealer
1no Air Flow Meter
1no Crank Shaft
1no ACL Race Bearing Set
1no Oil Pump
1no Gasket Exhaust Centre
1no Gasket Turbo
1no Gasket
1no Gasket Turbo-Downpipe
1no Belt Timing Turbo 94-
3no Anti Freeze
4no Helix F 5W-30
1no Stud Turbo
4no Flange Nut
1no Oil Cooler
Obviously when they break the block down then they can give a true estimate, but based on a previous rebuild this is what they quoted.
All parts are new and the whole job carries a 12month warranty
Would this sound reasonable?
1no Con Rod
1no Engine Gasket Set
1no RH Rocker Gasket
1no LH Rocker Gasket
4no Rocker Chest Gasket
4no Plug Cylinder Head
16no Washer Rocker
1no Grey Sealer
1no Air Flow Meter
1no Crank Shaft
1no ACL Race Bearing Set
1no Oil Pump
1no Gasket Exhaust Centre
1no Gasket Turbo
1no Gasket
1no Gasket Turbo-Downpipe
1no Belt Timing Turbo 94-
3no Anti Freeze
4no Helix F 5W-30
1no Stud Turbo
4no Flange Nut
1no Oil Cooler
Obviously when they break the block down then they can give a true estimate, but based on a previous rebuild this is what they quoted.
All parts are new and the whole job carries a 12month warranty
Would this sound reasonable?
See my post #26 and then call me Wednesday morning.
David APi
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To the OP, I put my vote in for API too.
David looked after me well when my 135k gearbox went. His gearbox guy built me a nice freshly reconed unit and it was posted safe wrapped on an overnight pallet to a (then) local specialists where it was fitted.
Wouldn't have anyone else do major gearbox/engine work. You'll find that it's not always about the cost but also the service, knowledge and integrity of the person doing the work.
Good luck buddy.... and GO FORGED
David looked after me well when my 135k gearbox went. His gearbox guy built me a nice freshly reconed unit and it was posted safe wrapped on an overnight pallet to a (then) local specialists where it was fitted.
Wouldn't have anyone else do major gearbox/engine work. You'll find that it's not always about the cost but also the service, knowledge and integrity of the person doing the work.
Good luck buddy.... and GO FORGED
#58
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Still not decided yet, theres a few forged units for sale on here so may get one of them. Then at least I will still have my engine and I can either break it or rebuild it at my leisure!!
#59
Sorry to hear about this, mate.
I've had a P1 from new and mine coughed its guts soon after a main dealer service - the MAF sensor failed (I suspect because they 'dry-cranked' it after the oil change, rather than manually doing it to lube the system, but I could be talking pants - needless to say it's now looked after by a chap I trust, and hasn't been near a main dealer since. They did sort it under extended warranty - £6k).
After the re-build I had mine mapped to Shell Optimax (and a few other bits done) - I wouldn't dream of putting anything less than 98 Ron in it now, and only currently trust either Shell or (if desperate) Tesco Super.
Good luck - the work sounds sensibly priced to me.
Gordo
I've had a P1 from new and mine coughed its guts soon after a main dealer service - the MAF sensor failed (I suspect because they 'dry-cranked' it after the oil change, rather than manually doing it to lube the system, but I could be talking pants - needless to say it's now looked after by a chap I trust, and hasn't been near a main dealer since. They did sort it under extended warranty - £6k).
After the re-build I had mine mapped to Shell Optimax (and a few other bits done) - I wouldn't dream of putting anything less than 98 Ron in it now, and only currently trust either Shell or (if desperate) Tesco Super.
Good luck - the work sounds sensibly priced to me.
Gordo
#60
I have a Knocklink in my STi6 and its very obvious that V-Power (or Tesco 99) is much better than BP Ultimate. Admittedly it was mapped for Tesco 99, but it works well with V-Power too. Only ever used BP Ultimate the once in an emergency - won't do it again.