angry_boy

Whichever way I decide I will be budgeting for a simtek to delete that pesky MAF tho!!
Does anyone know if they have released the update for the Simtek? Also whats the deal with Knock detection/protection? I've read that they can use the check engine light to warn of knock but was a bit confused as to wether it did anything about it?

Cheers
Sam

scooblee

How can anyone say p1's are not prone to engine failure, I would say most have had a rebuild before 50k, looked at many cars that had all been rebuilt then just bought an evo, back in a uk turbo now as a daily runner for work.
What's the deal with the fuel, I run mine on 95 unleaded, tenner at a time so is always nearly empty, do I have to stop being tight and put better fuel in?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Nope, just keep doing what you are doing and keep my phone number on you at all times.

Good luck, [ you'll need it ]

David APi

01926 614333

arumdevil

YES! unless it's a standard a standard UK turbo, then you might get away with it

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Might !! Well said Arum

arumdevil

I just don't understand why people get the cheaper fuel. These cars actually run more efficiently on the better fuel and in my experience it's enough of a difference to make up for the difference in price.

Oh well.

Tidgy

put **** in, get **** engine out,,,

o and i had to larf at the price of the quotes, save yourself a grand + vat and go to api lol, quids and quality in there me thinks lol

farmerwrx

what actually happens when you run the car low on fuel ?

Tidgy

causes detonation and melts the piston basicly,

heres a good link with damage pics

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_piston_fail.htm

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Two things really:

One is surge in the tank, when cornering on low fuel level, the system picks up air which shortchanges the injectors momentarily.

Second is that the returned fuel from the injector rails spill off is hot and that increases the temperature of the low fuel level in the tank. So the fuel tends to get hotter and hotter as you run low.

Keep a decent amount in the tank and the larger quantity will cool the returned fuel rather than the returned fuel heating up the tank contents.

We advise customers in our engine rebuild fact sheets to treat 1/4 tank as empty. Running lower can be dangerous.

David APi

bunsofsteeeel

iTrader: (1)

if you haven't had it rebuilt yet try powerstation they have worked on my scoobs for years and been nothing but awesome!

Terminator X

iTrader: (7)

**** me, did you (the OP) read about P1s on here before hand ... shame it happened though of course

TX.

classic Subaru Si

Didn't they bend some poor fellow over on here not so long ago??

Terminator X

iTrader: (7)

Happened just like that with my old STi V (v similar car to the P1 of course) ... garage crapped it when I called them although relaxed after I confirmed that yes it had oil in it

TX.

Terminator X

iTrader: (7)

Interesting ... you'll have a regular supply of old fuel in the tank then though albeit mixed with 3/4 new stuff every now & then (assuming you fill up rather than top up). Isn't that bad too?

TX.

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

That was the general feeling at the time. Don't know what the final out come was though.

farmerwrx

thanks for explaining that very interesting

angry_boy

They're essentially the same as the Type-R just extra knock factoring in the map IIRC.
And this particular one had the all important rebuild around 25k ago so thought that this would have covered the bases, unfortunately, it didn't!!

K1985

iTrader: (1)

I'm worried now. I've just bought a 95my wrx, and have been running it on sainsburys 97ron as the previous owner told me it had been mapped to do so with a piggyback chip, which I can't remember the name of (polas or something - anyone?)

How do I know if he was telling the truth? I do have a RR printout showing car giving out 278 bhp which is more than the 260 it should have, but wonder if this is down to the full RCM exhaust?

Someone calm my fears please!

arumdevil

it should be fine but I would run it on V-Power anyway.

angry_boy

Not sure on the piggyback chip, AFAIK there are different types of chip, solder in chips or external 'piggyback' like the old unichip, (not sure if these even exist anymore!!?) or then theres a fuel computer such as an Apex'i AFC?

I would of thought you would achieve more power than that with a standard remap, unless it is just purely been re-mapped for 97ron.
I'm sure someone with more technical knowledge will be able to advise in a bit more detail.

Either way I would get it checked by a reputable tuner/mapper of which there are many on here, just to be on the safe side!!

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Easy enough to check. Pull back the passenger carpet, remove kick plate and ECU, look for anything that is hanging from or connected to the ECU (apart from the yellow plugs). Once removed, undo the 3 brass screws on each side, remove lid. You should see some thing like:



Note the code on the lid, Z4 in my case. Also in the bottom right hand corner you will see the DIL socket where any chip will be fitted.

JohnD

iTrader: (5)

had the ECU been re-mapped at any time during it's previous ownership?
I believe the P1 engine was a V5 STi unit with octane booster "tablets" suspended in the tank? (Bouquet???) to satisfy the Japanese map? These "tablets" were sacrificial and once disolved, left the fuel below the octane requirement of the map. If I'm in error here, I'm sure someone will correct the above information?
If the OP finds that no re-map was done, that must be a priority as soon as possible after the re-build. Also - always carry a bottle of NF or similar in the boot in case the only petrol available is from a station with a green logo!!

JohnD

rezaP1

Broquets were claimed to be able to last 250,000 miles if i remember correctly .... they apparently reduced temps and improved emissions ... and also claimed that they reduced knock but not sure if this part was ever proved conclusively

I think it is generally accepted across the board that Ulitmate is NOT good for scoobies
Shell claims average of 99.2 RON at the pumps ... Id never use anyhting other than V-Power ...

Ive now clocked 85k in my P1, owned her from 15k, standard and still original engine (.... touchwood lol!!! )

Good luck sorting yours fella ...

angry_boy

You lucky *******!! LOL!

Cheers chap hopefully its all in hand, not holding my breath for this side of new years tho.

angry_boy

AFAIK yes but have no paperwork to support this, just a RR printout, but we all know how reliable they can be!!

Well the plan is to go Simtek, so MAF less and mapped by Bob Rawle.

classicgc8

iTrader: (4)

thanks david time for me to gently drive to a petrol station this morning ,shame nearest shell is about fifteen miles away

CRAZY DAVE4

does the quarter of a tank apply to classics only or all imprezas (new age aswell). Not heard this before.

MaDaSS

Well I have spent many a day with my fuel light on BUT I drive like a wuss so no problems caused there then! LOL.
Of late I have been filling up a lot lot sooner but still do not understand the 1/4 tank thing. Is this mentioned in the handbook? If it is such a severe issue.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

No it's not in the handbook. But research here and at other tuners has thrown up the fact that almost all of the cars that arrive with a blown bottom end, have NO FUEL in them. We sometimes do not have enough to even run the car for 1/2 an hour whilst it is warming up after the new engine is fitted. I doubt if we ever see a car in for rebuild with more than 1/2 a tank in it.

It wouldn't look good in a ' handbook ' [ who reads them anyway ] to say that the engine might fail if you run low of fuel. Not a great publicity plus point.

David