Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

Well i don't know what to say <blush icon>.


I can't speak for Splitpin, well i could, but i won't.
Your welcome mate.


New plugs will be good NGK 7's, gapped to 0.65mm.

Splitpin

It is difficult to envisage a circumstance where an FMIC would "benignly" cause behaviour like this. If the PP chip has been mapped with the FMIC in mind then this should be a moot point to start with. If it hasn't been mapped with the intercooler change in mind then about the only way it could cause (either directly or indirectly) this sort of behaviour is if there is a huge amount of det going on, which is not good and, either way, still in need of investigation/pinpointing.

Definitely do this. The green one has already given you the right recommendation for the plugs (NGK PFR7B's are usually the best option) and gapping (you need to make sure this is right before fitting them).

I'm a bit confused here. When you say that it "sounds like the TPS has cured the idle problem", have you actually changed the TPS position as per my previous post, or is the only thing you've done so far simply unplugging it yesterday?

Again there's a bit of a black hole in my knowledge with the early ECUs here, but, as has already been said, if the earlier ones work in the same manner as the later ones, the reset procedure will only successfully complete if it gets an all clear from all the sensors it tests. As such if it gives you an error code rather than the all clear signal, the normal assumption under these circumstances is that the ECU has not reset.

What I don't know is how this modified/chipped ECU is programmed to behave. You can make them do all sorts of unusual (and sometimes unexpected) things when you alter the firmware and/or map data.

No, that's exactly the right tree. The ECU stores the error data, plus all the learned corrections and so-forth in RAM. When you execute the reset sequence and complete it successfully, it runs some code that goes through all the parts of the RAM that store learned data - error codes, learned corrections and so-on, and either zeroes them or returns them to whatever their startup defaults should be.

If you pull the battery for long enough to run down the internal capacitors in the control unit, the processor will lose power and so will cold start when you connect it back up. Again it will zero or default all the RAM values - but without going through the active self test first.

musso2010

Splitpin - Thank you for your thorough replys, i appreciate you taking the time to help me. Yesterday i did indeed fit a new TPS, and that has cured all off my idle problems.

I still have some hesitation at 4k as the car comes onto boost, but i believe that this is due to the plugs being worn. I will also check the coils whilst im there.

Splitpin

Good stuff. As per previous it's worth checking the calibration on it is spot on - but as it idles properly immediately after a reset, it's safe for the time being to assume it's in the ballpark.

Aye - let us know how it goes. If the plugs solve it, cracking. If not, "hesitations", even if they feel inconsequential, can often be a symptom of a problem that needs fixing so don't assume it's minor just because it feels that way. Incidentally, when you say it's coming onto boost at 4krpm, do you mean that literally (or does it spool up and start to go earlier than that)? If so it's very late - this too might be worth some looking into.

musso2010

Have stuck the new plugs in and can definatly feel an improvement. However, during the plug change ive noticed 2 coil packs with very slight cracks, and one with the insulation on the wiring split just as it goes into the coil... Grrrr, they are only 3 months old!!!!

Can i possibly ditch the coils and convert it to run on a single coil???

Glowplug

iTrader: (8)

I can't see it being that difficult.

I think you would/could just take triggers for cylinders 1 and 2 and wire to one side of the new coilpack and triggers for cylinders 3 and 4 and with to the other side of the coilpack.

But having never done this myself, i maybe oversimplifying the job.

Another way would be purchase a set of
http://www.mocomracing.com/product_d...&cat=16&sub=46
they still work out cheaper than a new set of OE packs and i would think the work involved would be simular to above. But you would also need some regular HT leads.

Here's a thread with the pin-outs to help melt your brain;
https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...oil-setup.html

I'm sure 'someone' will be along shortly to clarify one way or the other.

edit: also read the 'wasted spark' link in the above link.

musso2010

Its something i am definatly going to look into in 2011!

In the mean time, im going to have to do a bodge job on the coils with some expoxy resin and heat shrink untill after christmas