classic sti type r differences
28 December 2010, 11:02 AM
#61
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http://www.sennsports.co.uk/vehicle/...-R,_STI,_VER_3.
is there many differences with a ver3/4?
28 December 2010, 11:12 AM
#62
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i know its not white but this also looks very nice. starting to really like ver3 type r....
http://www.sennsports.co.uk/vehicle/...YPE-R,_VER_3._
http://www.sennsports.co.uk/vehicle/...YPE-R,_VER_3._
28 December 2010, 01:12 PM
#63
ive already seen that one,it does look nice but definetely set on getting a white one,this is exactly what i want....it says version 3 is that right?
http://www.sennsports.co.uk/vehicle/...-R,_STI,_VER_3.
is there many differences with a ver3/4?
http://www.sennsports.co.uk/vehicle/...-R,_STI,_VER_3.
is there many differences with a ver3/4?
Mechanically I think the v3 and v4 are identical.
28 December 2010, 01:46 PM
#64
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The Type R is actually heavier than a UK turbo, you also have some differences between the MY98 version 4 and the MY99 version 5 STI's, so MY99 version 5 first, mappable ecu , needs 100 ron minimum, phase 2 engine, more agressive map, then look at the MY98 version 4 STI, none mappable ecu but its mapped for 97 ron fuel out of the factory, phase 1.5 engine.
Tony
Tony
28 December 2010, 05:03 PM
#68
28 December 2010, 06:06 PM
#69
Over time iv changed the wheels, suspention, brakes, exhaust, fmic etc. As you cant remap the v3 ecu i went for the Apexi PFC running 340bhp `thanks to simon at JGM`
I did look at the later versions at the time of buying but saw this mint sonic blue v3 not far from me at a good price, so went for it and never looked back. Theres nothing wrong with the early spec dash and bumpers and im not personally a big fan the v5/v6 rear spioler.
It might be alittle bit more tail happy than other scoobs but not dangerously. Theres a few pics of mine in my gallery if your interested.
28 December 2010, 06:28 PM
#72
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I do. Iv had mine for almost 2 years and loving every minute. It came standard apart from a roll cage, with 46k covered. I paid just under 5k for it.
Over time iv changed the wheels, suspention, brakes, exhaust, fmic etc. As you cant remap the v3 ecu i went for the Apexi PFC running 340bhp `thanks to simon at JGM`
I did look at the later versions at the time of buying but saw this mint sonic blue v3 not far from me at a good price, so went for it and never looked back. Theres nothing wrong with the early spec dash and bumpers and im not personally a big fan the v5/v6 rear spioler.
It might be alittle bit more tail happy than other scoobs but not dangerously. Theres a few pics of mine in my gallery if your interested.
Over time iv changed the wheels, suspention, brakes, exhaust, fmic etc. As you cant remap the v3 ecu i went for the Apexi PFC running 340bhp `thanks to simon at JGM`
I did look at the later versions at the time of buying but saw this mint sonic blue v3 not far from me at a good price, so went for it and never looked back. Theres nothing wrong with the early spec dash and bumpers and im not personally a big fan the v5/v6 rear spioler.
It might be alittle bit more tail happy than other scoobs but not dangerously. Theres a few pics of mine in my gallery if your interested.
28 December 2010, 07:10 PM
#73
28 December 2010, 09:32 PM
#74
The Type R is actually heavier than a UK turbo, you also have some differences between the MY98 version 4 and the MY99 version 5 STI's, so MY99 version 5 first, mappable ecu , needs 100 ron minimum, phase 2 engine, more agressive map, then look at the MY98 version 4 STI, none mappable ecu but its mapped for 97 ron fuel out of the factory, phase 1.5 engine.
Tony
Tony
,but i believe the op has a uk wagon like myself and they weigh in at 1,306 Kg std, either way my mates std V5 type is slightly quicker off the mark than mine,but after 60 mph my 325 lb/ft compared to his 260 lb/ft starts to show,and after 90 mph + its game over 
.
28 December 2010, 11:45 PM
#75
how do you tell the difference between a v4 and a v5/6 easily?
im looking around for a v4, i like the idea that they are ok with 97 ron and a v4 is probly fit better in my budget. dont fancy the old dash again in the v3.
im looking around for a v4, i like the idea that they are ok with 97 ron and a v4 is probly fit better in my budget. dont fancy the old dash again in the v3.
29 December 2010, 01:21 AM
#77
If you want to run a V4 or V5 STi safely without remapping it you really ought to be using an octane booster and the best SUL you can buy locally.
29 December 2010, 02:05 PM
#79
there are conflicting posts:
Tony says
"so MY99 version 5 first, mappable ecu , needs 100 ron minimum, phase 2 engine, more agressive map, then look at the MY98 version 4 STI, none mappable ecu but its mapped for 97 ron fuel out of the factory, phase 1.5 engine."
John says
"The V4 STi was always designed to produce the book 280PS using 100RON fuel, so trying to run it on 97RON will have it on the edge of it's det capability and it will be down on power."
who is right? ..theres only one way to find out.....FIGHT!
Tony says
"so MY99 version 5 first, mappable ecu , needs 100 ron minimum, phase 2 engine, more agressive map, then look at the MY98 version 4 STI, none mappable ecu but its mapped for 97 ron fuel out of the factory, phase 1.5 engine."
John says
"The V4 STi was always designed to produce the book 280PS using 100RON fuel, so trying to run it on 97RON will have it on the edge of it's det capability and it will be down on power."
who is right? ..theres only one way to find out.....FIGHT!
29 December 2010, 02:35 PM
#80
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there are conflicting posts:
Tony says
"so MY99 version 5 first, mappable ecu , needs 100 ron minimum, phase 2 engine, more agressive map, then look at the MY98 version 4 STI, none mappable ecu but its mapped for 97 ron fuel out of the factory, phase 1.5 engine."
John says
"The V4 STi was always designed to produce the book 280PS using 100RON fuel, so trying to run it on 97RON will have it on the edge of it's det capability and it will be down on power."
who is right? ..theres only one way to find out.....FIGHT!
Tony says
"so MY99 version 5 first, mappable ecu , needs 100 ron minimum, phase 2 engine, more agressive map, then look at the MY98 version 4 STI, none mappable ecu but its mapped for 97 ron fuel out of the factory, phase 1.5 engine."
John says
"The V4 STi was always designed to produce the book 280PS using 100RON fuel, so trying to run it on 97RON will have it on the edge of it's det capability and it will be down on power."
who is right? ..theres only one way to find out.....FIGHT!
,id also like to know "which is the best car"? oh dear.......
29 December 2010, 03:56 PM
#81
id love a type r but i must research this fuel issue becuase i dont want to buy a ticking time bomb that someone has been ragging round on tesco 95 ron. its hard to tell if the previous owners have used the correct fuel. a bit of a gamble when you buy.
they can lie and tell you anything.
they can lie and tell you anything.
29 December 2010, 04:03 PM
#82
None of the classic STi's will be running to their potential on UK SUL only.
If you want peace of mind motoring, stick some Octane Booster in as a minimum.
The more fragile issue with the V5 was the MAF sensor, they dont like being used with oiled air filters, plus they get tired, so are worth changing every 30K miles even with a dry filter in use. When the MAF sensor deteriorates it makes the engine run lean, hence why some P1 and STi5/6 engine reliability issues were occuring around the 50K mile mark. Hardly a big cost issue to replace on that sort of schedule, they are about £90.
I'd always sugest you go for the newest classic model you can afford, the cars tend to get better every MY (V5 and V6 are the same bar a few cosmetics)
If you want peace of mind motoring, stick some Octane Booster in as a minimum.
The more fragile issue with the V5 was the MAF sensor, they dont like being used with oiled air filters, plus they get tired, so are worth changing every 30K miles even with a dry filter in use. When the MAF sensor deteriorates it makes the engine run lean, hence why some P1 and STi5/6 engine reliability issues were occuring around the 50K mile mark. Hardly a big cost issue to replace on that sort of schedule, they are about £90.
I'd always sugest you go for the newest classic model you can afford, the cars tend to get better every MY (V5 and V6 are the same bar a few cosmetics)
29 December 2010, 04:15 PM
#83
id love a type r but i must research this fuel issue becuase i dont want to buy a ticking time bomb that someone has been ragging round on tesco 95 ron. its hard to tell if the previous owners have used the correct fuel. a bit of a gamble when you buy.
they can lie and tell you anything.
they can lie and tell you anything.
These cars are getting quite old now, even the latest classic is now looking at 10 years old, so you are always taking a punt when buying. If you are on your last few £ to buy the car, then maybe a 276BHP car isn't a realistic proposition for you.
Otherwise check the car out as best you can and take an educated decision on it's general condition, if there are engine issues you can normally spot them at the time of purchase, so dont be too scared of taking one on, if it checks out healthy at the time. Just make sure once bought you look after it properly.
29 December 2010, 04:54 PM
#84
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You can have that issue with any second hand car, if you dont like the people selling, dont buy it.
These cars are getting quite old now, even the latest classic is now looking at 10 years old, so you are always taking a punt when buying. If you are on your last few £ to buy the car, then maybe a 276BHP car isn't a realistic proposition for you.
Otherwise check the car out as best you can and take an educated decision on it's general condition, if there are engine issues you can normally spot them at the time of purchase, so dont be too scared of taking one on, if it checks out healthy at the time. Just make sure once bought you look after it properly.
These cars are getting quite old now, even the latest classic is now looking at 10 years old, so you are always taking a punt when buying. If you are on your last few £ to buy the car, then maybe a 276BHP car isn't a realistic proposition for you.
Otherwise check the car out as best you can and take an educated decision on it's general condition, if there are engine issues you can normally spot them at the time of purchase, so dont be too scared of taking one on, if it checks out healthy at the time. Just make sure once bought you look after it properly.
29 December 2010, 05:12 PM
#87
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wel surely that depends on what year? as you can get very low mileage minters! ver3/4.i may be able to go a lttle more than 5k,but not much.i personally think that for 5k i should be able to find one that is perfect.
