No worries.

 

hello steve fiited new knock sensor and that fault has gone and hasn't returned, i had a bit of trouble with locating throttle position sensor, i.e being sent the wrong 1, bought 1 off mattybr5 and recieved it pretty promptly but since fitting it still reads the same fault 3 long pulses and 1 short pulse tps, any ideas

 

Have you reset the ECU after fitting the TPS??

 

disconnected the battery overnight which someone told me was another way to reset the ECU i tried connecting green to green black to black and resetting that way but didnt perform a reset is there any chance you can talk me through the best way?

 

Here you go:

Classic (JECS) ECU Reset

1. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature, turn engine off

2. Locate the two ECU connectors, located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector

3. With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.

4. Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle, then return it to the half-throttle position and hold for a few seconds, and then release

5. Engine Check lamp turns on

6. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h.

7. ECU is now re-set.

8. At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.

9. Stop the car and turn off the engine.

10. Disconnect the black and green connectors.

11. Job complete

 

when i tried this procedure this morning i connected green to green black to black as you just said turned the ignition on depressed accelerator and lifted to half and my check engine lamp didnt stay on it kept flashing the code procedure tried it several times

 

Which it did. Technically, you have checked it's operation, it 'turned on'.

So do the next step:

 

No worries mate I'll try that tomorrow and let you know the outcome thanks for your help

 

hello steve
took the subaru out today to do the reset procedure it didnt work fully well it did in a way its bringing up 31 still but now bringing up 32 and 12 looked them up and these seem to all be linked to circuits could my faults be electrical and not actually sensors as ive already changed 31 and its still bringing it back
thanks laurence

 

Difficult to say really.
As the TPS is second hand there is no guarantee that it is good. The Lambda is just as likely to be fudged as any other sensor. The starter switch, in my experience has been a earthing problem.

You really need to replace the Lambda sensor and perhaps try another TPS to be sure. By all means test/check/clean your main earths, and check visible connectors for broken wires and/or water ingress. But i would still replace the sensors as a first step.

 

the lambda sensor is onli a few weeks old and i brought a genuine brand new one, i will purchase another throttle position sensor but a new one this time, number 12 code i have never seen before until i took it out last night, i was just cruising doing about 40 in 4 then dropped it down and accelerated just reaching 4000 rpm it had the major missfire issue and brought on the number 12 code, when the miss fire problem occured before it never brought this code up

 

Have you set the TPS up correctly?

 

hello mate thanks for the reply whats the coreect way of setting it up

 

You will need a multimeter.

You probe it to the TPS singal wire from the ECU. You can find a diagram here - http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/pinouts.htm

Start the car and check the voltage, it should be (iirc) between 0.48-0.5 volts.
If it isnt in the correct range you need to rotate the sensor untill it is.

That is the jist of it, im sure someone will be able to confirm... but that is how i checked mine.

 

I had a problem like this a few years back and it was a loose earth to the block, the cel was flashing aswell but i cant remember what codes it brought up.

 

I agree. If its anything like my MY95 the earths will be useless. I am getting some 8 gauge wire to make up an earthing kit.

 

I which case, go with Musso's advice. Check the inputs/outputs at the ECU and get a good earth to the block. For testing you can do worse than put a jump lead from the battery neg (-ve) terminal straight onto the block.

 

How you getting on with this mate?

 

I am currently having very similar problems with my car, so would really like to hear how you're getting on too!

am suspecting something electrical, but i already have an earthing kit, so not sure what it could be. might check my coils/plugs, though i'm wondering if recent engine work has caused it, and something has either a loose connection or has been damaged in the engine removal.

as i say, if you find out what yours is, i would be very interested as it may sort mine too..

 

I had exactly the same problem with my '97 WRX.
I would be ok when cold but once the engine was warm, try and go over 3500k and it would miss and splutter, and the engine check light would come on and off at random.
I took the car to the garage where I bought it, they changed the plugs, gapped them properly, new leads, this didn't cure it so I went around breakers and picked up a few coil packs, none of these made a difference, back to the garage, they said it was what I suspected, the MAF.
They wouldn't cover it under warranty and I didn't wanna pay £365 plus labour so I searched the Bay of E and found one after about 3 months of looking, for £75, Bargin! The car has been sweet ever since.

I found that once the car was warm and it started playing up, if I unplugged the MAF it would run better, but you need it plugged it when starting from cold. Obviously not advisable but it got me by while I was waiting for Ebay to come up with the goods.

 

hello thanyou for all your help and replies, i haven't been able to work on the car during this week due to working such long hours, got this weekend off though so will have a play with it, i need to set up the throttle position sensor, clear the codes and then see what i have,i managed to run new earths last week but going to test drive after setting up the tps, if no joy then i will try unplugging the maf once the car is at running temperature to see if it gets any better, will post the progress saturday night thanks laurence

 

I have the same problem on my car please keep us posted!

 

I would also check the timing... i spent a fortune on new sensors, coils, plug only to find out last week my timing was 2 teeth out... that would explain why my car wasnt behaving as it should... worth a try...

 

hello mate set the throttle position sensor up today, set it at 4.7 closed which it said on jolly green monster but still showing 31 which is tps, and even revving the car in neutral it's fine between idle and 3000 as soon as you rev it 3500 to 4000 it backfires pops and bangs, you rekon it sounds like timing. or something totally different, ran the car up for about 10 mins idling temp was in the middle unplugged the maf and it ran even worse did i unplug it to quick

 

was reading other posts about lamba sensors and i no they have two, one on top infront of turbo, and one underneath at the front, well my 1 at the top is not conected and is a 4 wire 1 should this be connected, (was cut when i brought it)

 

The cut sensor you see if the cat on fire sensor. I assume you have a decated downpipe? Your lambda is in the headers under the car. Drivers side iirc. Oh and there is only one lambda sensor.

Whip of the timing belt covers and check the timing out. Worth a try...

 

yea got a decat, extremly loud :-) will have a look at the timing tomorrow it will rule it out if it is, it would be good to narrow it down because its got to be either fuel, electrical, or timing

 

Check all the wiring to the TPS. Also was it a new one or second hand? Its possibe you may have a dud one? Let me know what you find tomorrow.

 

If you unplugged the MAF and it ran worse, that means it's working. But still if you've only done it sitting on the drive, if you take it out anywhere try it again after run, when mine was going wrong it was really temperamental. Only take a minute to do.

Good luck with the other bits to check.

 

had a look at the subaru today managed to get both end cases off to show the belt but cant undo the crank pulley bolt anyone know a good way of locking it to do it i know that the timing is definatly out because if you line up one side the other side is out by two teeth but wont know which side it is until i get the middle case off any ideas