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VAG COM help please.

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Old 04 January 2011, 10:00 AM
  #31  
Rob Day
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Originally Posted by bengo
Hi Rob,

You'll need to drive the car a bit (at different revs/load) to get a useful reading from learning view, so a bit early to tell anything from the tables. IAM has risen to 16 which is good though.

Regarding the fault codes, what fuel are you using? Have you checked the spark-plugs recently - this would be the first thing to check. Are you getting a CEL on the dashboard?

Ben
Hiya Ben,

I'll have a drive out later today and post up the readings.
( Ive ordered a new laptop battery which will help )

When it comes to getting the readings with this programme, is it a case of going for a drive out as you mentioned, then plugging the car up afterwards, or do you need to refresh the data during the different runs/loads to get a snap shot of the current "live" data?

The Spark Plugs are Brand new and have only covered around 120miles since, and its the CEL thats making me want to investigate the problem. As said the car is sweet when its Warm, but when Cold and Idling or even just pottering when its cold its very lumpy, almost like its on 3 cylinders. Ive contacted the garage that undertook the engine work, im just awaiting a response


Originally Posted by phil739
ordered


will be keeping an eye on this thread rob , may need advise myself ....lol
Please do keep an eye on the thread mate, but dont listen to me I know next to nothing when it comes to brains of a car. The days have gone when I use to spend the weekend removing engines out of retro Fords, and the occassional Renault. Engine bays of the last 10yrs have become more complex and im very rusty since moving to a house that doesnt have a large garage to work in. My house I had 11yrs ago had 2 bays with an updatairs. Pit and B&T!!! I miss all that

Anyway back to your OBD cable, I can show you how to get it configured and hooked up, reading, and deleting codes, the rest im afraid im sill learning.
Old 04 January 2011, 11:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by UK300 PRODRIVE
Hiya Ben,

When it comes to getting the readings with this programme, is it a case of going for a drive out as you mentioned, then plugging the car up afterwards, or do you need to refresh the data during the different runs/loads to get a snap shot of the current "live" data?

The Spark Plugs are Brand new and have only covered around 120miles since, and its the CEL thats making me want to investigate the problem. As said the car is sweet when its Warm, but when Cold and Idling or even just pottering when its cold its very lumpy, almost like its on 3 cylinders. Ive contacted the garage that undertook the engine work, im just awaiting a response
Hi Rob,

Yes that's correct, to get a reliable reading from Learning View you need to go for a good drive (50-100 miles), then hook up the computer and take a reading. The Subaru's knock control strategy is quite complicated and it takes a while for the ECU to learn what corrections (if any) it needs to make.

When you reset the ECU a couple of things happen. All trouble codes are wiped, any learned air/fuel and knock corrections are cleared (zeros in the tables) and usually your IAM value is reset to 8 (on 16 bit ECUs). After you've driven the car for a bit the ECU will decide whether the car is 'happy' and gradually start raising the IAM value to 16. Once IAM is at 16 the ECU will be running the full timing specified in your Timing Advance table. When the IAM is at 8 it will only use half the timing in the Timing Advance table, so your car will feel quite sluggish after a reset.

I rarely reset my ECU but I do tend to check my learning view every couple of weeks. A table full of zeros is best as it shows that the car has has not had to make any corrections to compensate for regular knock, but as i said earlier it will take the car a while to learn.

I hope this makes sense, I'm not too good at explaining things by text?!

Ben
Old 05 January 2011, 09:25 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bengo
Hi Rob,

Yes that's correct, to get a reliable reading from Learning View you need to go for a good drive (50-100 miles), then hook up the computer and take a reading. The Subaru's knock control strategy is quite complicated and it takes a while for the ECU to learn what corrections (if any) it needs to make.

When you reset the ECU a couple of things happen. All trouble codes are wiped, any learned air/fuel and knock corrections are cleared (zeros in the tables) and usually your IAM value is reset to 8 (on 16 bit ECUs). After you've driven the car for a bit the ECU will decide whether the car is 'happy' and gradually start raising the IAM value to 16. Once IAM is at 16 the ECU will be running the full timing specified in your Timing Advance table. When the IAM is at 8 it will only use half the timing in the Timing Advance table, so your car will feel quite sluggish after a reset.

I rarely reset my ECU but I do tend to check my learning view every couple of weeks. A table full of zeros is best as it shows that the car has has not had to make any corrections to compensate for regular knock, but as i said earlier it will take the car a while to learn.

I hope this makes sense, I'm not too good at explaining things by text?!

Ben
Thanks Ben

It makes perfect sense to me mate, very well written

I have no intention of going far in the car over the next few days as im back at work, but I will try and get some miles racked up to get some readings. I did 20 miles yesterday, and will be doing the same today. So I will leave it until the back end of this week and report back using the car as much as I can .

What is the reason for you reading your ECU regular, is this personal interest, or are you having issues?

My car is so sluggish when its cold its almost un-driveable. Im going to try the Injector cleaner today, and if this fails I will ask Brain to take it back off me

Rob
Old 08 January 2011, 04:43 PM
  #34  
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Well here is an update, the car is still running very poor when cold. Here is a snapshot of the Learning View from 10mins ago:

EDIT - I have tried the injection cleaner and this had no impact on how it performs.

Name:  LearningView_SS_08-01-2011163919.jpg
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Last edited by Rob Day; 08 January 2011 at 04:47 PM.
Old 08 January 2011, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by UK300 PRODRIVE
Well here is an update, the car is still running very poor when cold.
You seem to be stuck on Learning View, all that does is shows your a/f's and any logged faults. The Evoscan s/w for example will give you a more detailed view of what is happening, ie duty cycles, knock, afr's etc. Alot more useful than 'just' afr's and gives you a chance of 'seeing' the problem.

Old 08 January 2011, 05:49 PM
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where can you get a copy of that? is it freeware, and will it work on my99 cars?
Old 08 January 2011, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by b13bat
You seem to be stuck on Learning View, all that does is shows your a/f's and any logged faults. The Evoscan s/w for example will give you a more detailed view of what is happening, ie duty cycles, knock, afr's etc. Alot more useful than 'just' afr's and gives you a chance of 'seeing' the problem.


Ben mentioned that I should run it after doing XYZ miles to see the knock correction to which I have, well £50 of fuel later .

Im going back to the garage with the car for sure, and I have been in contact with them since and during this ordeal.

Im not advanced enough to understnad what it is im looking at in any of the tables, so no matter what programme i run I would still be none the wiser personally.

Rob
Old 08 January 2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyboothy
where can you get a copy of that? is it freeware, and will it work on my99 cars?
Nah not free $25 Aus. But worth every penny for me as i can't use RomRaider. You may be as well using RR as it will support your MY.

Here's the linky:
http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...oscan-software
Old 08 January 2011, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by UK300 PRODRIVE
Ben mentioned that I should run it after doing XYZ miles to see the knock correction to which I have, well £50 of fuel later .

Im going back to the garage with the car for sure, and I have been in contact with them since and during this ordeal.

Im not advanced enough to understnad what it is im looking at in any of the tables, so no matter what programme i run I would still be none the wiser personally.

Rob
No probs mate.
Old 08 January 2011, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by b13bat
Nah not free $25 Aus. But worth every penny for me as i can't use RomRaider. You may be as well using RR as it will support your MY.

Here's the linky:
http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...oscan-software
I already use RR, but only supports the basics on my MY (no IAM,airflow in g/s etc)

would evoscan log these on my MY?
Old 08 January 2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyboothy
I already use RR, but only supports the basics on my MY (no IAM,airflow in g/s etc)

would evoscan log these on my MY?
Yeah logs both of those and many many more. It is pretty comprehensive.
Old 08 January 2011, 08:30 PM
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one last quick question, does it work with the vag cable??
Old 08 January 2011, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyboothy
one last quick question, does it work with the vag cable??
Yes, defo for logging. Don't know about flashing, think you need an adaptor for that.
Old 08 January 2011, 08:49 PM
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cheers mate

not bothered about reflashing as it's an ecutek ecu anyway. just like to make my own diagnosis on problems before going to the proffesionals
Old 08 January 2011, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by scoobyboothy
just like to make my own diagnosis on problems before going to the proffesionals
Me too. It's nice to know where your at eh.
Old 09 January 2011, 12:15 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by b13bat
You seem to be stuck on Learning View, all that does is shows your a/f's and any logged faults. The Evoscan s/w for example will give you a more detailed view of what is happening, ie duty cycles, knock, afr's etc. Alot more useful than 'just' afr's and gives you a chance of 'seeing' the problem.
Hi B13BAT, The only reason I suggested Learning View was because it is a free way to see the fault codes and clear them. Looking at A/F corrections and knock is also a good indication of how the engine is running.

Rob, you've got a bit of knock at low load. What mods have you got and have you had a re-map at any point? Have you removed your TGVs, I only ask because of your cold start problems?
Old 09 January 2011, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bengo
Hi B13BAT, The only reason I suggested Learning View was because it is a free way to see the fault codes and clear them. Looking at A/F corrections and knock is also a good indication of how the engine is running.
No probs mate, just that with the cold start issue, i thought it may log a little more info than LV and point UK300 in the right direction.
Old 09 January 2011, 01:19 AM
  #48  
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VAGCOM is for German cars not japanese clutter.Volkswagon Audi Group is the VAG part
Old 09 January 2011, 01:33 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by scooby-tc
VAGCOM is for German cars not japanese clutter.

You could try reading the thread from the start.

Then you would also of known:



Originally Posted by scooby-tc
Volkswagon Audi Group is the VAG part
That actually, the VAG stands for:


Originally Posted by b13bat
Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft or Volkswagen-AG

Aktiengesellschaft is a German term that refers to a corporation that is limited by shares.

Old 09 January 2011, 09:09 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by scooby-tc
VAGCOM is for German cars not japanese clutter.Volkswagon Audi Group is the VAG part
...
Old 09 January 2011, 09:24 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by bengo
Rob, you've got a bit of knock at low load. What mods have you got and have you had a re-map at any point? Have you removed your TGVs, I only ask because of your cold start problems?
Thanks Ben for getting back,

There is no Mods whatsoever, I mean the car has not be altered away from a completly standard car, which I know is boring, but this is a project for me thus I want to bottom these issues before starting. I have a MD321, decat, and coilovers on my list at present and im doing some searching, but the poor running is paramount before any of this can go ahead.

As for the TGV's, I thought these only operated at the very start of the engine being cranked over from cold acting as some kind of choke? If Im right then this will only be for a minute max?!?

The trouble with mine is its rough and lumpy for around 5mins (and lets not forget the misfire codes I had previously), and If I was to say drive from house to a major 'A road' which would be around 600yrds, when I get to the junction and set off in 1st the car is so sluggish I almost have to slip the clutch to get it going, and then if I select 2nd at less that 3.5k revs (cold engine dont forget) the car really struggles, so foot to the floor it just shuffles along at 20mph struggling to gather momentum. Eventually into 3rd / 4th and around 1.5miles covered the car starts to come to life a little.

The Misfire code (CEL) only seems to appear when I leave the car idling (no revs) for a while, say 10mins+ sat outside my house. However I get no CEL If I jump in the car and drive off from cranking over although its so slugglish...

As said though I need to take it back to the garage as they recently carried out the engine install.

Rob

Last edited by Rob Day; 09 January 2011 at 09:27 AM.
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