VAG COM help please.
#31
Hi Rob,
You'll need to drive the car a bit (at different revs/load) to get a useful reading from learning view, so a bit early to tell anything from the tables. IAM has risen to 16 which is good though.
Regarding the fault codes, what fuel are you using? Have you checked the spark-plugs recently - this would be the first thing to check. Are you getting a CEL on the dashboard?
Ben
You'll need to drive the car a bit (at different revs/load) to get a useful reading from learning view, so a bit early to tell anything from the tables. IAM has risen to 16 which is good though.
Regarding the fault codes, what fuel are you using? Have you checked the spark-plugs recently - this would be the first thing to check. Are you getting a CEL on the dashboard?
Ben
I'll have a drive out later today and post up the readings.
( Ive ordered a new laptop battery which will help )
When it comes to getting the readings with this programme, is it a case of going for a drive out as you mentioned, then plugging the car up afterwards, or do you need to refresh the data during the different runs/loads to get a snap shot of the current "live" data?
The Spark Plugs are Brand new and have only covered around 120miles since, and its the CEL thats making me want to investigate the problem. As said the car is sweet when its Warm, but when Cold and Idling or even just pottering when its cold its very lumpy, almost like its on 3 cylinders. Ive contacted the garage that undertook the engine work, im just awaiting a response
Anyway back to your OBD cable, I can show you how to get it configured and hooked up, reading, and deleting codes, the rest im afraid im sill learning.
#32
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (17)
Hiya Ben,
When it comes to getting the readings with this programme, is it a case of going for a drive out as you mentioned, then plugging the car up afterwards, or do you need to refresh the data during the different runs/loads to get a snap shot of the current "live" data?
The Spark Plugs are Brand new and have only covered around 120miles since, and its the CEL thats making me want to investigate the problem. As said the car is sweet when its Warm, but when Cold and Idling or even just pottering when its cold its very lumpy, almost like its on 3 cylinders. Ive contacted the garage that undertook the engine work, im just awaiting a response
When it comes to getting the readings with this programme, is it a case of going for a drive out as you mentioned, then plugging the car up afterwards, or do you need to refresh the data during the different runs/loads to get a snap shot of the current "live" data?
The Spark Plugs are Brand new and have only covered around 120miles since, and its the CEL thats making me want to investigate the problem. As said the car is sweet when its Warm, but when Cold and Idling or even just pottering when its cold its very lumpy, almost like its on 3 cylinders. Ive contacted the garage that undertook the engine work, im just awaiting a response
Yes that's correct, to get a reliable reading from Learning View you need to go for a good drive (50-100 miles), then hook up the computer and take a reading. The Subaru's knock control strategy is quite complicated and it takes a while for the ECU to learn what corrections (if any) it needs to make.
When you reset the ECU a couple of things happen. All trouble codes are wiped, any learned air/fuel and knock corrections are cleared (zeros in the tables) and usually your IAM value is reset to 8 (on 16 bit ECUs). After you've driven the car for a bit the ECU will decide whether the car is 'happy' and gradually start raising the IAM value to 16. Once IAM is at 16 the ECU will be running the full timing specified in your Timing Advance table. When the IAM is at 8 it will only use half the timing in the Timing Advance table, so your car will feel quite sluggish after a reset.
I rarely reset my ECU but I do tend to check my learning view every couple of weeks. A table full of zeros is best as it shows that the car has has not had to make any corrections to compensate for regular knock, but as i said earlier it will take the car a while to learn.
I hope this makes sense, I'm not too good at explaining things by text?!
Ben
#33
Hi Rob,
Yes that's correct, to get a reliable reading from Learning View you need to go for a good drive (50-100 miles), then hook up the computer and take a reading. The Subaru's knock control strategy is quite complicated and it takes a while for the ECU to learn what corrections (if any) it needs to make.
When you reset the ECU a couple of things happen. All trouble codes are wiped, any learned air/fuel and knock corrections are cleared (zeros in the tables) and usually your IAM value is reset to 8 (on 16 bit ECUs). After you've driven the car for a bit the ECU will decide whether the car is 'happy' and gradually start raising the IAM value to 16. Once IAM is at 16 the ECU will be running the full timing specified in your Timing Advance table. When the IAM is at 8 it will only use half the timing in the Timing Advance table, so your car will feel quite sluggish after a reset.
I rarely reset my ECU but I do tend to check my learning view every couple of weeks. A table full of zeros is best as it shows that the car has has not had to make any corrections to compensate for regular knock, but as i said earlier it will take the car a while to learn.
I hope this makes sense, I'm not too good at explaining things by text?!
Ben
Yes that's correct, to get a reliable reading from Learning View you need to go for a good drive (50-100 miles), then hook up the computer and take a reading. The Subaru's knock control strategy is quite complicated and it takes a while for the ECU to learn what corrections (if any) it needs to make.
When you reset the ECU a couple of things happen. All trouble codes are wiped, any learned air/fuel and knock corrections are cleared (zeros in the tables) and usually your IAM value is reset to 8 (on 16 bit ECUs). After you've driven the car for a bit the ECU will decide whether the car is 'happy' and gradually start raising the IAM value to 16. Once IAM is at 16 the ECU will be running the full timing specified in your Timing Advance table. When the IAM is at 8 it will only use half the timing in the Timing Advance table, so your car will feel quite sluggish after a reset.
I rarely reset my ECU but I do tend to check my learning view every couple of weeks. A table full of zeros is best as it shows that the car has has not had to make any corrections to compensate for regular knock, but as i said earlier it will take the car a while to learn.
I hope this makes sense, I'm not too good at explaining things by text?!
Ben
It makes perfect sense to me mate, very well written
I have no intention of going far in the car over the next few days as im back at work, but I will try and get some miles racked up to get some readings. I did 20 miles yesterday, and will be doing the same today. So I will leave it until the back end of this week and report back using the car as much as I can .
What is the reason for you reading your ECU regular, is this personal interest, or are you having issues?
My car is so sluggish when its cold its almost un-driveable. Im going to try the Injector cleaner today, and if this fails I will ask Brain to take it back off me
Rob
#34
Well here is an update, the car is still running very poor when cold. Here is a snapshot of the Learning View from 10mins ago:
EDIT - I have tried the injection cleaner and this had no impact on how it performs.
EDIT - I have tried the injection cleaner and this had no impact on how it performs.
Last edited by Rob Day; 08 January 2011 at 04:47 PM.
#35
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
#37
You seem to be stuck on Learning View, all that does is shows your a/f's and any logged faults. The Evoscan s/w for example will give you a more detailed view of what is happening, ie duty cycles, knock, afr's etc. Alot more useful than 'just' afr's and gives you a chance of 'seeing' the problem.
Ben mentioned that I should run it after doing XYZ miles to see the knock correction to which I have, well £50 of fuel later .
Im going back to the garage with the car for sure, and I have been in contact with them since and during this ordeal.
Im not advanced enough to understnad what it is im looking at in any of the tables, so no matter what programme i run I would still be none the wiser personally.
Rob
#38
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
Here's the linky:
http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...oscan-software
#39
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (8)
Ben mentioned that I should run it after doing XYZ miles to see the knock correction to which I have, well £50 of fuel later .
Im going back to the garage with the car for sure, and I have been in contact with them since and during this ordeal.
Im not advanced enough to understnad what it is im looking at in any of the tables, so no matter what programme i run I would still be none the wiser personally.
Rob
Im going back to the garage with the car for sure, and I have been in contact with them since and during this ordeal.
Im not advanced enough to understnad what it is im looking at in any of the tables, so no matter what programme i run I would still be none the wiser personally.
Rob
#40
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: notts
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nah not free $25 Aus. But worth every penny for me as i can't use RomRaider. You may be as well using RR as it will support your MY.
Here's the linky:
http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...oscan-software
Here's the linky:
http://www.evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-o...oscan-software
would evoscan log these on my MY?
#46
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (17)
You seem to be stuck on Learning View, all that does is shows your a/f's and any logged faults. The Evoscan s/w for example will give you a more detailed view of what is happening, ie duty cycles, knock, afr's etc. Alot more useful than 'just' afr's and gives you a chance of 'seeing' the problem.
Rob, you've got a bit of knock at low load. What mods have you got and have you had a re-map at any point? Have you removed your TGVs, I only ask because of your cold start problems?
#51
There is no Mods whatsoever, I mean the car has not be altered away from a completly standard car, which I know is boring, but this is a project for me thus I want to bottom these issues before starting. I have a MD321, decat, and coilovers on my list at present and im doing some searching, but the poor running is paramount before any of this can go ahead.
As for the TGV's, I thought these only operated at the very start of the engine being cranked over from cold acting as some kind of choke? If Im right then this will only be for a minute max?!?
The trouble with mine is its rough and lumpy for around 5mins (and lets not forget the misfire codes I had previously), and If I was to say drive from house to a major 'A road' which would be around 600yrds, when I get to the junction and set off in 1st the car is so sluggish I almost have to slip the clutch to get it going, and then if I select 2nd at less that 3.5k revs (cold engine dont forget) the car really struggles, so foot to the floor it just shuffles along at 20mph struggling to gather momentum. Eventually into 3rd / 4th and around 1.5miles covered the car starts to come to life a little.
The Misfire code (CEL) only seems to appear when I leave the car idling (no revs) for a while, say 10mins+ sat outside my house. However I get no CEL If I jump in the car and drive off from cranking over although its so slugglish...
As said though I need to take it back to the garage as they recently carried out the engine install.
Rob
Last edited by Rob Day; 09 January 2011 at 09:27 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post