ok so best to just get the right ones grey 380's

 

Yeah, no doubt about it. Just get some 380's. If you plan to modify the car in the future then you can start looking into bigger injectors etc...

 

i was planning on getting it remapped, a bigger turbo, a walbro 255 fuel pump and obviously bigger injectors in the future but not right now, so if i did use 440cc injectors they wouldnt work as it is then? its got an sti v6 intercooler, blitz sus induction kit, blitz bov, manual boost controller and a scorpion cat back exhaust system at the moment.

 

No, It will run crap. Bigger injectors need mapping for which you will need a new ECU.

 

ok no worries so for now ill just stick the the standard injectors until i get into more modification, do you know where i can get the standard 380 grey injectors from? i couldnt see any on ebay.

 

Try contacting mattybr5@poleposition or any of the other breakers in the traders section. Matty hasnt let me down yet, so i reackon he would have a set.

 

OR this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-IMPREZA...item256277eca0

Have bought from them before, very good guys.

 

ok cheers mate

 

Did you solve the problem? I have same stalling/tickover issue on my MY00. Have had this before and replacing the Lambda sensor solved the problem. This time I've replaced both the Lambda and the MAF but the problem still exists.

Think it could be the Lambda sensor as I bought it cheap off eBay (£20!) and it could be a piece of cheap crap - although it was sold as a dirct replacement.

 

first i had a mobile diagnostic guy come round and check it over, he checked fuel pressure and that was fine and i already cleared the boost solenoid so wasnt that, then he did a live test plugged in while running and i had no reading on the lambda sensor and also not very good reading on the maf so he said replace both of them and see. so i got a genuine subaru lambda sensor first and that didnt solve the problem, i then did an ecu reset and i got codes 23 maf and 17 4th injector, so i then got a 2nd hand maf off ebay and put that in and did another ecu reset and it solved the problem even cleared both codes and i'd got some 2nd hand injectors just incase but didnt put them in yet but has been fine ever since... so what symptoms does yours have?

 

Basically, I have some hesitation below 3000rpm. But hardly noticeable, probably just me that could feel it. Smooth as silk above 3000rpm. But main problem is when you back off the gas the revs drop right down past the tickover point and frequently the engine just stalls. Sometimes it will recover after hunting around between 100rpm and 800rpm before settling back on 800rpm. Its got worse over the last week.

Have had this problem twice before and a new lambda sensor or MAF solved it. So a bit annoyed that I still have the problem after replacing both. Probably my fault for buying a cheap Lambda sensor off ebay

 

well you could try a proper genuine subaru lambda sensor i paid £140 i think through a company suggested to me on here as couldnt find right one on ebay but i didnt get any change so i only got a 2nd hand maf but that did solve my problem, i would of liked to of got a new maf but theyre nearly £300 new and dont fancy that. do you have an induction kit or standard air box?

 

Standard air box on mine.

Going to do the MAF test where you pull out the plug and see if it stalls. That should help narrow it down to MAF or Lambda.

 

ah ok because induction kits damage maf's specially k&n and other paper type that are paper covered in oil, the oil contaminates the sensor wire in the maf. also i was told the main reason a maf fails is due to a lot of movement and vibration which breaks the circuitry in the top square part also people with induction kits most of the time dont intall the bracket (like me) to hold it in place so it moves around alot so i now have put in a bracket. oh and when i did the maf test unplugging it with the engine running it just cut the engine so that test doesnt work.

 

It proves nothing, it is a myth.
All you will achieve is a stored fault on the ECU.

I think you need to do a little more research on suitable air filters.


That, imho is the cause of most MAF failure, especially on the OP's MY.

 

hello b13bat...so are you disagreeing with what i said? about what causes maf failure because the 2 reasons i gave are correct. 1) oil from paper induction kits contaminating the sensor wire in the maf and 2) excess movement of maf with induction kits with no bracket causing circuit damage. anyway the guy has a standard air box so it probably doesnt apply to him. he doesnt have the same symptoms i had so not really sure all i know is between the new lambda and 2nd hand maf it cured my problem also the popping from the exhaust must just be because it a catback system with an induction kit (dry metal mesh type)

 

Me, disagree? Noooooooooo! Well only half.

For starters, point 1) KnN are NOT paper,

"The most basic description of K&N's filter construction is: four to six layers of oleophilic cotton in a specific mesh pattern, which is then coated in a light oil in order to trap dust."

I can't speak for 'other' oiled filters, but the only way i can see you having problems with a KnN and oil is if you 'over oil' it after a service.
I have used KnN for 29 years (3 years on Scoobs) with zero issues. I would, as many do, recommend them.
As i said, point 2 is more likely to do the damage and cost the ££'s.

 

ah ok, im just going by what others have told me, i myself have a blitz sus metal mesh dry type. maybe people do over oil k&n's i dont know but i personally would prefer not to run the risk of oil micro particles getting sucked through to the maf, im not sure what messed up my maf but the replacement has done the job.

 

My goal for this year

No worries mate, just do search on here for "KnN" or "best air filter" or similar. Some very good posts by some very knowledgeable people.