Base OS Maps / ECU tuning
#37
Personally I'd get the car remapped by a travellong OS mapper and bung him a few quid to show you the basic steps. Then keep the Mappers map, stick back on the OEM map and DIY. You will then at least have a "propper" map to fall back on
Shaun
Shaun
#38
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i agree. to the OP, graham (engine mapper) has recently mapped my car and if you were to pay him the very competitive Ł225 fee he would/is more than happy to take things step by step with you ensuring you personally are a part of the process rather than just a passenger. Grahams very nature is that of a very helpful and extremely meticulous lover of tuning scoobys and evos. would happily vouch for this mappers professional attitude and his after sales care. thanks again Graham
#39
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/tuning...-ecuflash.html
This might help.
This might help.
Looks like I'll have to have a better look
#41
Had a dig around and found all the plugs.
Question Is - shoul I have a few extra small connector blocks?
I also have two spare wires that aren't connected into the green plug but are terminated by being bent back on themselves and then taped with electrical insulation tape ... Is this normal???
Question Is - shoul I have a few extra small connector blocks?
I also have two spare wires that aren't connected into the green plug but are terminated by being bent back on themselves and then taped with electrical insulation tape ... Is this normal???
#42
Engine Specialist
Had a dig around and found all the plugs.
Question Is - shoul I have a few extra small connector blocks?
I also have two spare wires that aren't connected into the green plug but are terminated by being bent back on themselves and then taped with electrical insulation tape ... Is this normal???
Question Is - shoul I have a few extra small connector blocks?
I also have two spare wires that aren't connected into the green plug but are terminated by being bent back on themselves and then taped with electrical insulation tape ... Is this normal???
I understand what you are saying about not needing a wideband or det cans. Unfortunately though you are tuning blind without them. The original narrow band, well semi wideband O2 sensor is pretty innacurate unless set up properly. This is where you will extract a lot of power and efficiency for the amount of boost you currently run. Without accurate O2 readings you're taking a stab in the dark. So I would say, tune, but only with the right equipment. You won't for example see the car running extremely lean up top if your pump is weak due to the way in which the original O2 sensor works.
Obviously if the car is running healthily now and you tune with very safe limits you'll get away with it for certain. But checking it's health is the first step and without the necessary equipment this will definately leave a problem unidentified and potential failure.
At the end of the day it'll probably cost you more to buy the equipment and learn to tune than it would to pay a mapper. As Lee has said I'm happy to help if I can and he has a sensible idea of buying a map and learning from a mapper on the job. Others probably wouldn't, but I'm happy to spend the time to show you what i'm doing. (Within reason!)
Graham
#43
Full respect to you Graham for actually taking time to reply to someone who wants to have a go at tuning their car. You can bet that other mappers wouldnt entertain the thought of given guidance, its always seemed to me that the world of mapping is tighter than the fricking magicians code!
#44
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hi m8 i was looking at mapping mine, did a lot of reseach and downloaded loads of stuff including
ECU Explorer
ECU Flash
RomRaider
EcuEdit
i also have some stock maps and modified maps but after loads of reading i didnt go for it. i got Duncan @ racedynamix to do mine and he did a very good job
my problem was that some of the modified maps i downloaded i didnt know if they were ok or not and i thought for the sake of a few ŁŁŁ its worth paying to get it done right.
ECU Explorer
ECU Flash
RomRaider
EcuEdit
i also have some stock maps and modified maps but after loads of reading i didnt go for it. i got Duncan @ racedynamix to do mine and he did a very good job
my problem was that some of the modified maps i downloaded i didnt know if they were ok or not and i thought for the sake of a few ŁŁŁ its worth paying to get it done right.
#45
Graham, you're a gent and I will probably take you up on the offer
I just like to have a play myself - hopefully just reading and understanding roms won't cause any issues!
Are you ever in the West Mids - specifically anywhere local to J9, M6?
thanks
I just like to have a play myself - hopefully just reading and understanding roms won't cause any issues!
Are you ever in the West Mids - specifically anywhere local to J9, M6?
thanks
Yes that's normal, two green connectors need to be connected for flashing as well as the plug that you short out or buy the flash connector from Tactrix with the cable. ODB2 connector is bottom of the dash and is used by the Tactrix cable to log and flash when the computer is connected.
I understand what you are saying about not needing a wideband or det cans. Unfortunately though you are tuning blind without them. The original narrow band, well semi wideband O2 sensor is pretty innacurate unless set up properly. This is where you will extract a lot of power and efficiency for the amount of boost you currently run. Without accurate O2 readings you're taking a stab in the dark. So I would say, tune, but only with the right equipment. You won't for example see the car running extremely lean up top if your pump is weak due to the way in which the original O2 sensor works.
Obviously if the car is running healthily now and you tune with very safe limits you'll get away with it for certain. But checking it's health is the first step and without the necessary equipment this will definately leave a problem unidentified and potential failure.
At the end of the day it'll probably cost you more to buy the equipment and learn to tune than it would to pay a mapper. As Lee has said I'm happy to help if I can and he has a sensible idea of buying a map and learning from a mapper on the job. Others probably wouldn't, but I'm happy to spend the time to show you what i'm doing. (Within reason!)
Graham
I understand what you are saying about not needing a wideband or det cans. Unfortunately though you are tuning blind without them. The original narrow band, well semi wideband O2 sensor is pretty innacurate unless set up properly. This is where you will extract a lot of power and efficiency for the amount of boost you currently run. Without accurate O2 readings you're taking a stab in the dark. So I would say, tune, but only with the right equipment. You won't for example see the car running extremely lean up top if your pump is weak due to the way in which the original O2 sensor works.
Obviously if the car is running healthily now and you tune with very safe limits you'll get away with it for certain. But checking it's health is the first step and without the necessary equipment this will definately leave a problem unidentified and potential failure.
At the end of the day it'll probably cost you more to buy the equipment and learn to tune than it would to pay a mapper. As Lee has said I'm happy to help if I can and he has a sensible idea of buying a map and learning from a mapper on the job. Others probably wouldn't, but I'm happy to spend the time to show you what i'm doing. (Within reason!)
Graham
#46
Well I hooked it all up - I've always had the CEL light on for low alternator voltage.
When it was all plugged up the connections caused the CEL to keep flashing!
The 'Learning View' app also found the following issues within the diagnostic codes:
7 codes found:
P1518 STARTER SWITCH LOW INPUT
P0851 NEUTRAL SWITCH INPUT LOW
P1152 FRONT O2 SENSOR RANGE/PERF LOW B1 S1
P1153 FRONT O2 SENSOR RANGE/PERF HIGH B1 S1
P0137 REAR O2 SENSOR LOW VOLTAGE
P0502 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOW INPUT
P0503 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR INTERMITTENT
The low alternator voltage was cleared when I did an ECU reset.
I'm thinking the O2 sensor codes are related to the exhaust? After doing the ECU reset the car sounds 'rougher' but I believe thats because I've reset all of the learning data from it.
Time to get on Google and fish out the codes above!
When it was all plugged up the connections caused the CEL to keep flashing!
The 'Learning View' app also found the following issues within the diagnostic codes:
7 codes found:
P1518 STARTER SWITCH LOW INPUT
P0851 NEUTRAL SWITCH INPUT LOW
P1152 FRONT O2 SENSOR RANGE/PERF LOW B1 S1
P1153 FRONT O2 SENSOR RANGE/PERF HIGH B1 S1
P0137 REAR O2 SENSOR LOW VOLTAGE
P0502 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOW INPUT
P0503 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR INTERMITTENT
The low alternator voltage was cleared when I did an ECU reset.
I'm thinking the O2 sensor codes are related to the exhaust? After doing the ECU reset the car sounds 'rougher' but I believe thats because I've reset all of the learning data from it.
Time to get on Google and fish out the codes above!
#49
I guess the lambda issue is something that won't go away when disconnecting. WIll pop in to my Scooby specialist in the morning and see what he thinks!
#51
Wideband gauge and sensor:
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=204
Make your own det cans:
http://passionford.com/forum/technic...-det-cans.html
Do not mess with the ECU without these two things. Logs will be good for fine tuning and resolving issues, but your going to need live accurate data. My opinion, but I'm no mapper. Like you though I am looking into doing my own car, not for trying to save money, but just to be able to tune it myself.
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=204
Make your own det cans:
http://passionford.com/forum/technic...-det-cans.html
Do not mess with the ECU without these two things. Logs will be good for fine tuning and resolving issues, but your going to need live accurate data. My opinion, but I'm no mapper. Like you though I am looking into doing my own car, not for trying to save money, but just to be able to tune it myself.
#53
Wideband gauge and sensor:
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=204
Make your own det cans:
http://passionford.com/forum/technic...-det-cans.html
Do not mess with the ECU without these two things. Logs will be good for fine tuning and resolving issues, but your going to need live accurate data. My opinion, but I'm no mapper. Like you though I am looking into doing my own car, not for trying to save money, but just to be able to tune it myself.
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=204
Make your own det cans:
http://passionford.com/forum/technic...-det-cans.html
Do not mess with the ECU without these two things. Logs will be good for fine tuning and resolving issues, but your going to need live accurate data. My opinion, but I'm no mapper. Like you though I am looking into doing my own car, not for trying to save money, but just to be able to tune it myself.
#54
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like the det cans link, think il give them a go.
im using evoscan on my 95 wrx to log my ecu at the minute, before i start modifying it. i have a piggyback ecu to go on my z4 and may try mapping that.
im using evoscan on my 95 wrx to log my ecu at the minute, before i start modifying it. i have a piggyback ecu to go on my z4 and may try mapping that.
#56
#59
I do think this is why the car is smelling of petrol after a drive.
I also observed the o2 seńsor voltage fluctuating between 0.02 and 3.5v constantly so I am going to replace that to see if that changes things.
The readings were during closed loop as I was sitting idle with the engine running.
I think I am talking some sense but I might have things completely **** over face lol
#60
Sitting at idle the engine is in open loop and the ECU calculates "on the fly" using the MAF / front 02 sensor etc. I thought the ECU looked for schoicimetic fuelling at idle.
When on boost the ECU uses stored values in ROM to look after Boost / fuel /ignition. At least that's how I thought things worked ?
Shaun
When on boost the ECU uses stored values in ROM to look after Boost / fuel /ignition. At least that's how I thought things worked ?
Shaun