DAVE26

ok guys...
not sure if any1 is following this thread anymore lol

but changed the actuator today
still the same.
not boosting all the way up

i have a 3 port boost solenoind here
i know these are better than the 2 ports

does any1 know the wire up for them and which pipes go where ?

thanks

dave

scoobyboothy

iTrader: (1)

http://www.tyneteesscoobies.co.uk/fo...ad.php?t=23150

I don't the restrictor is required, I've got an apexi 3 port running with no restrictor

Also it needs to be mapped to make the 3 port boost to work properly

DAVE26

ahh ok
so im not fitting hte 3 port then
ill just double check it with the 2 greens connected to see if its working right.

think its change turbo time then !!!

tjmatt

iTrader: (1)

Did you find the fault code causing the Engine management light? If there is a serious fault its possible that the ECU prevents the boost control solenoid working leaving you with the actuator set boost level.

A (dangerous) way to check would be to pull the pipe off the wastegate completely so that the wastegate remains shut, then take the car for a drive careful applying throttle and see if your can get more than 0.4bar boost then. Do so very carefully as you'll quickly build up a lot of boost if its not the turbo at fault. At least this way you know that the turbo is ok, and the problem is with the boost control piping/solenoids/wiring, or with the ECU in a limp home type mode.

DAVE26

hi matt

i noticed today when i joined the 2 green plugs that the BCS is not ticking away under the tests !!!!
sure it should tick with the testing yeah ?

does any1 know what voltage should be at the 2 pin plug on idle or ignition on

dave

tjmatt

iTrader: (1)

On a classic it definitely ticks (not sure about bugeye) - assuming the solenoid is still controlled by the ECU and somebody hasn't cut the wire from the ECU and replaced it with a different electronic boost controller. I would just have a check under passenger footwell carpet and check all the ECU wiring is original and not been tampered with at any stage. That or the solenoid may have gone - but I don't believe this happens often.

I can't tell you the voltages but "normally" on these types of solenoids, one side is connected to 12V and the other side is pulled to ground via the ECU in order to activate it. So in theory with the car just idling (valve not operating) you would see 12V on both sides of the solenoid but I can't be sure of that at all. All I can say is you should see a difference in potential on the pins when the solenoid should be working, so I would expect to see the multi-meter flickering when connecting the green test connectors. The other test for the solenoid would be to check its resistance is low (in the 20-200 ohm range) and is not open circuit. Another thing to do would be to unplug and temporarily power the solenoid with 12v and 0v whilst trying to blow through it to check that it definitely clicks open and is not blocked with oil. Don't leave connected too long as the solenoid may overheat (they are supposed to be pulsed at less than 100% duty cycle).

DAVE26

excellent info matt
i will check that in the morning
i did the other day have an airline and carb cleaner blown through it to make sure it wasnt sticking
ill test teh solenoid voltages too
like you say there must be some voltage at the pins

ill also test teh 2 points on the solenoid for resistance

thanks mate

dave

DAVE26

ok here is my voltage testings.

with the green connectors connected n the fans etc firing up i tested teh voltage to the pins
i put a ground to teh body of the car
i got 12v on the coloured wire and 0v on the other
the other (black wire i think) didnt been out to the body of the car either
so i think this is controlled by the ecu or what not

so if 12v is at the solenoid and the ohms between the solenoid pins is 31ohms which im not sure is good or bad.

are we saying the solenoid itself is to blame ?
i have just made a pipe up that goes from teh turbo nipple directly ot the actuator
should i see if i get some turbo spool up with a steady drive ?

or is it too risky
saying that i have a spare td04 and td05 to hand

dave

tjmatt

iTrader: (1)

Those readings all sound fine. I'll explain the system in a bit more detail.

If you connect the nipple output directly to the actuator you will get 0.4 - 0.5 bar boost. It will be this pressure that the actuator "see's" that opens the wastegate and stops boost increasing. It has a spring in it which sets this base level of boost assuming it is connected directly to that outlet nipple. If you bleed some of the air out of this pipe (which is what the ECU boost control system does) the actuator and therefore wastegate will open later and your boost will be higher. The reason there should be a restrictor pill in the pipe just after the nipple output on the turbo is because the boost control solenoid cannot get rid of enough air even on high duty cycles in order to attain the required boost level.

Therefore if you want to check whether there is an issue with the turbo and not with the ECU controlled boost system then you need to leave the pipe on the actuator open - it will not see any boost pressure and therefore the wastegate will stay shut. Boost will be detirmined directly by your foot on the throttle and should go up very fast!

It seems that the boost solenoid is working, so what I would check is:
* Wastegate is being held shut by actuator spring - no slack in it. If always open building any boost will be difficult. You should be able to pull it open with some effort.
* ECU fault codes (possible ECU stops any additional boost if error with another sensor, even though the wiring and solenoid work)
* Correct size restrictor pill in correct location (just after nipple, before T to solenoid and actuator if it is meant to be the same as a late classic)
* Boost solenoid is not stuck or blocked - check it clicks open when 12V applied across it and that you can blow air through it when energised but not when it is off. Just test with a couple of wires and spade connectors straight onto car battery, you should feel it click open.

DAVE26

hi mate
thanks once again

yes i tested teh solenoid manually with 12v and its clicking
well it clicks
and then clicks back when i take the 12v away
it shouldnt pulse should it ? (its not)
just a click when i apply 12v and another when i release it.
if so then the solenoid is fine
its teh car thats not controlling IT right then
so not sure where to go from here !!!

i tried the pipe directly to and from the actuator and turbo nipple
seemed a bit nippier but the boost guage still said 0.4/5 bar !!!

when u say try it without it connected to the actuator, you mean block that pipe off yeah

thanks mate

dave

DAVE26

one more thing

does any1 have the ecu pinouts for this year imprza ?
the ecu has 5 plugs to it.
all ive seen are all 3 plugs !!

dave

DAVE26

ok found the ecu pinouts

http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/bob_raw...0STi%20ECU.pdf

im thinking i should be lookiong at WASTEGATE control solenoid yeah ?
its saying there should be 12v at the ecu pug and there is
so not sure why its not firing the solenoid

strange

tjmatt

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like solenoid is fine.

Just pull the pipe off the actuator, and block in order not to introduce a leak which would cause the MAF to read wrong. This will get you lots of boost hopefully. If it doesn't then it means that the wastegate is not being closed fully all the time. If it does boost in this condition, knowing your solenoid works, you can blow air through it when open, then it means the ECU is not controlling the boost.

I thought you mentioned before that you had seen an engine management light, so why not check the error code for it first?

BTW 12V on the wire is probably the "Closed" position. The other side of the solenoid is likely connected to 12V and the ECU pulls this to ground in order to energise the solenoid. So with green test connectors I would expect this wire on the ECU to go to 0V or toggle between the two.

DAVE26

ok understood mate.
i tried as you said above

but still the car seems flat and is hesitant around 3k revs !!!

you think the wastegame could be fluffed ?

i may as well put a TD05 on it eh ?

then that will rule out the waste gate problem.
no biggie to me all good.

im not sure how i can read the code out of the car
can i make a easy to use lead up to read it with my laptop ?

i have the program ecuexplorer.
just wondered if i could make up an easy to lead read out the codes

thanks

dave

tjmatt

iTrader: (1)

You just need a VAG-COM cable I believe, but I've never had a bugeye so someone else would have to confirm. Then ecu explorer or romraider or equivalent.

If you can't get any boost with no pipe on the actuator then likely something is up with it. Have you checked there is no slack in the actuator arm and that it is adjusted so that the wastegate is definately shut? Putting a TD05 on might let you know if the turbo is at fault but will only make the car run worse because your ECU is not mapped for it.

If you have a hesitation as well as low power you definately need to check the fault codes, because a misfire bought on by bad leads, or an erroneous MAF will stop you boosting as well as cause possible engine damage.

DAVE26

ahh okies
i opted for the TD04 turbo change too
the actuator is a second one
and came off a working unit.
so its good
and is nice n tight
adjusted up nicely

ill try find my usb vag com lead
will i need any drivers for it ?
of will they bin the vag com folder ? or does ecu explorer have them ?

dave

DAVE26

here is the turbo now its off.



the circular part where the wastegate closes onto is very corroded and part has broken off
could this be teh reason why its only holding at 0.4bar ?

ive got a new tubro to go on and its not like this one. its very crisp n like new

thanks

dave

DAVE26

ok update guys if any1 is still following me hehehe

i got my vag com lead out n took a reading

about 5 codes
one was wastegate somethign or other
among a few other ones
i should of noted them down lol

but reset n cleared codes.

new turbo on it too along with some pipe work

took it for a run
fine then a bit of hesitation then engine management light came back on

this is the error on its own now
just one
P0340 camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction

any1 any ideas what i should be looking at now ?
is it the top right sensor or the middle one above the main pulley ?
and you think its wiring or the sensor fluffed ?

thanks

dave

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

It's cited on top of the block directly over the passenger side camshaft pulley, toward the front of the engine. You should be able to make out the connector and wiring.

Unplug/reconnect the connector and give the wiring a good wiggle about, do a proper reset and see what happens...

DAVE26

yeah thought it was that top right hand side one
ill give it a check now n reset the ecu again

thanks joz

dave

DAVE26

hi joz

with the car idling i unplugged the top right sensor, the car revs went all over teh gaff nearly stalling.
when i replaced it the car went back to normal idle speed
so i dont thing this sensor is faulty

any other ideas ?

dave

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Did you reset after plugging it back in? The intention was to see if the connector/wiring was causing an intermittent CEL, that's all.

Well, if a CEL still appears even after doing that, then you could do a lot worse than to get a new cam sensor from Import Car Parts... Hopefully your motor will be back to rude health, then.

DAVE26

hi mate

im thinking one of the fault codes in teh ecu was retarding the boost.

as after messing with that sensor the engine management ligth came back on
so i reset and checked again for codes, all gone
now the car pulls as it should

im thinking the wastegate corrosion in the pic above was the problem.

one of the codes mentioned somethgin about the wastegate too.

car is back to full health now.

he is looking for some bits for it

zorst - full 3" system or bigger
boost controller
induction

are these years abled to be remapped on stock ecu ?

thanks

dave

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Great! Have you doused the whole wastegate rod in penetrating oil overnight? That'd probably help.

Yep. MY99/00 cars i.e. those manufacured between Sep 98 and Aug 00, are indeed mapple on the stock ECU via EcuTeK s/w. Does the car have its ignition pack over to the passenger side of the inlet manifold (rather than it being in the centre of it)?

Jolly Green Monster, mapper extraordinaire, travels, and is up the Midlands/north area every 2 weeks I think. Ring/email/PM him - he'll sort you out...

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

you can see from the penny colour on the outside edge that the exhaust gas has been leaking etc..

the corrasion is really a build up more than anything of deposits etc and alittle rust and just normal wear and tear..

you need to ideally remove the deposits and grind the penny to wastegate port like and exhaust valve so it seals properly.. but not ideal.

Thanks for the recommendation Joz.

Simon