bluerigster

iTrader: (9)

Anyone can assemble an engine but it's something else to build one to within the correct clearances when using a used block. As your relying on how accurate the the block has been machined to and not all blocks are worth using, especially if after machining a bore etc is found to be eccentric. Which when using an aluminium block like in a Subaru's is more than often the case.

Also when assembling the mock build to plastigauge (measure) the main bearing journals it's common to find too greater clearances especially on the centre bearings which can require a inner casing skim. But if the deck faces needed doing piston deck protrusion can be a problem, so your left with a block you have spend a small fortune and bearing clearances are out of tolerance. So do you cut your loses or decide to run with a bigger oil pump to feed more oil to aid lubrication on the greater clearances which is going to hinder reliability.

IMO if you decide to opt for a forged engine have the engine built and mapped by the same company so if you experience and problems you're covered. Instead of one person/company blaming the other and don't bother buying any parts etc as most companies only like using a certain brand.

turboDean

iTrader: (4)

I agree think it has a lot to do with how well the block is machined and if it built to the correct tolerances...
From a warrenty point of view having the engine built and mapped by the same company is the best way to go, but unfortunatly most of the best mapper (people who do it everyday JGM, Andy f etc) don't build engines...

I don't really know what to do with the evo, got 3 options really....
1. Leave it as it is running on the limit of the standard rods and risk a rod exiting the side of the block...
2. Have a "Rod-Job" which will take out the weak link, but will still have tge risk of the bearings going as they have done 50k
3. Go fully forged, lot more expensive and still could go bang if it's not built right....

bluerigster

iTrader: (9)

A "Rod-Job" is great option and depending if your car has a full service history and is mapped correctly 50K miles shouldn't be a problem. Personally I wouldn't run the risk of a standard rod failure especially if you're running around 400 bhp as many have failed running far less power.

Most tuners will do drop in pistons at <30K miles but I'm not convinced new piston rings seal correctly even if the bores aren't glazed as many tend to use oil afterwards.

If you're going to go for a forged engine the cheapest option is to use your original block and crank and built another 2 litre, but you will probably find all your engine bearings are in good condition and wish you had done a "Rod-Job" and saved some money.

How are you finding the Evo Dean? It looks stunning from the pictures you posted.

turboDean

iTrader: (4)

Yeah it has got full service history and i would think it's over 400bhp...
If the car had a low mileage i'd of probably gone for drop in's but dont think thats an option with ver 50k

I think i will go down the route of a Norris Design's Rod-Job to be honest....
The EVO is good, not as quick as my Silver Scoob was but its a lovely car, the previous owner has really looked after it well