I'm in the mountains and country roads of croatia, no cameras here

I don't go crazy on the roads as my testosterone levels have subsided some what in recent years

I will do the odd trip to the ring and monza.

But as my forged engine has let go i'm starting to think what the hell, as has been said you can't take it with you so i may as well do it once in my lifetime.

I will by doing it myself have a greater understanding of what is going on Exactly instead of having half an idea.

And as my last engine failed due to a lack of knowledge if i'm going to spend a wedge of cash i want to know everything is done right, no offence to anyone.
I fully understand the concept of letting the man that does it every day do it but that can also lead to complasencey.

And while i respect the knowledge of those who have long standing and experience in the industry engine building is not rocket science despite what those with a vested interest would have us all believe. again no offence intended. as i have done it before many times, all be it a long time ago and different engines.

Again thanks for the replies

 

yeah built my first engine(3sgte) a couple of years ago now and its a satisfying experience and its still going strong

 

No question that if you have all the parts in front of you, spotlessly clean and ready to assemble, it isn't hard to put one together.
If you are talking about preparation however, you need a fully equipped machine shop along with all the facilities that goes with it. EG we trial assemble every Subaru engine and are amazed at how many need careful machining following that information to line everything up correctly. (deck heights etc)
Our vested interest is in ensuring we do the best job we can, and we've made the investment to cover it.

 

The first and most important factor when considering this kind of level.... nothing is fit and forget and the more you move away (by considerable margins) from an OE set-up / power, the risk and reliability is further increased for the first and decreased for the latter.

There is always the old saying..... if you want something quick, buy something that was designed to be quick from the start (and more importantly reliable). If you've owned something like a Porsche before, you may understand what that actually means in the real world.

What most people don't realise is that the price you pay today for this kind of level, will almost certainly not be the only price you pay over the rest of the life of th ownership.

Been there, done it, wore and sold the T-Shirt afterwards.

Just go in to it with your eyes wide open. Accept there will be downsides. Have cash available for future issues and you won't be too disappointed.

 

About any of that i have no doubts.

you are one of the most respected tuners out there, and i'm sure have many happy customers

 

newage sti 2 litre engine
standard sti 3 heads
Rotated Gt3076r turbo
740cc injectors
fuel lab fpr
gt spec headers
6 speed box and twin plate clutch
walbro 290lph fuel pump
hybrid fmic
syvecs ecu
15% meth
= 523bhp @ 2 bar boost

 

Indeed it is, but at that level, I'd argue you'd want to get the whole thing right first time and leave happy never having to worry about it!!

You could save money by going 2.1. (which would be cracking, no doubt)but, like for like, it won't spool as well as a 2.35 or produce as much torque.

Having gone from a 2.0 to 2.5 litre, I don't think I could ever go back. Aint no replacement for displacement as the yanks say!

When you go for a drive in, drive out solution, you want the 'whole package', not some bits that work better than others.

To get that level (as a complete fit and forget) car, you need the best!

If you're doing some of the work yourself, you can look at it a bit more in terms of a project that can be done in stages.

Ns04

 

thanks banny

I don't know anything about going rotated except that it gives better spool, presumably there are others.

So i have the right heads so thats a good start the only real question is price difference between re building my own block against the price of a newage sti block.

Still don't like the idea of going for the the 2.5 block as they seem to max out in this region.

And i don't think some of the numbers i hear for the 2.35 sound good to my wallet, if i was after 700bhp then yes but thats a bridge too far for my requirements.

And as for the drive in drive out service,personally spending 4/5k on labour alone is not for me.

 

We do a whole engine for that, inc parts and vat!

 

The Bishop of Exeter has spoke LOL

 

Soon !

 

Yes but the overall total on a job like this for labour plus vat will be in the 4/5 k region and as i say id rather have that in the build or my pocket not yours.

i think there is a traders section for you to advertise your wears in.

 

Is the old girl still holding together despite your attempts to kill her?

 

At 500bhp there is no such thing as fit and forget imo. Unless drive off boost or park up like an ornament.

 

There's an element of that any stage of tuning admittedly. However as long as you go in to things with your eyes open and have a good set up, the standard newage bottom end and heads will work to around 500 bhp. There are several cars on Scoobynet running this power without forged re-builds. Indeed Banny was running over two bar of boost and well in excess of 500 bhp before breaking his car. Dunx's bugeye is going great guns on an standard bottom end too. If you're handy with a spanner I think a decent set of bolt on mods with a good mapping session will yield you the magic 500 for a reasonable outlay. Yes it may all go **** up but how many posts do you see stating engines have gone bang with low miles and very little abuse. Perversely others who have 'ragged' their cars and given little credence to mechanical sympathy find their cars going on and on.....

 

I agree,being handy with spanners means it can easily be done for less than 5k given the parts i have already, obviously i need to sort my block, but the one thing i have gained from this thread is that it is doable.

 

Look at it holistically.
Budget for the right brakes, drivetrain and suspension so the car is a 500hp package that works. Not a great engine in a car that isnt up to the job.
This is where the money comes in, the engine build is just one part of the equasion.
Expect things to go wrong, budget for things you didnt expect to.

loosely - to do it properly 5k for engine, 4k for drive train, 5k for the rest, brakes, suspension, induction, headers, oil coolers, guages, maping ect etc etc.
Have you 15k if so go for it. Doing the work yourself have you got 10k if so go for it.

From another that has been there and done it.
Go for it good luck

 

Sorry, I was forgetting myself. You need a company called Focus.

 

Careful your ego is starting to get the better of you.

 

That started the day I realised fewer and fewer people are older than I am. And some of them aren't as smart.

 

my personal choice for that sort of money, sc450

 

You started off asking for advice, (it was me who advised the 2.1L route) its ended up you disrespecting one of the most respected engine builders/tuners in the country, careful fella, its not the best way of making friends, you never know when you will need the help of the likes of Alan.

If your gonna build the engine yourself, from what I have learnt reading on SN here it goes > try and get your hands on a second hand newage engine (SCDB will suffice for 500hp) the likes of a Cosworth stroker kit will have that engine capable of 500hp easily with great torque, if you can get your hands on a JDM engine set up for twin scroll you could then take a look at the Turbo Dynamics LM500, this IMO will be a great package

Good luck with your build fella
Lee.

 

Yes that my be but age is no guarantee, and if you were that smart you would know when to leave somethings alone.

 

NO ! It's in a well known tuner's bubblebath tank...



dunx

 

We've never met, but it's almost as if you know me

Mine was diagnosed with cylinder head issues, so for the last three years I've been trying to kill it. But Alan and the team have a pair of fettled/cam'd heads ready to go onto my S-CDB once built.

Just got to last another 6-8 weeks on an MTB to work and back

dunx

 

Excuse me but i did not disrespect anyone and in fact if you actually read one of my previous posts you will see that i clearly stated that he was one of the most respected tuners out there.

So before you start jumping to the defence of someone who is more than capable of standing up for themselves and making unjustified accusations, i suggest you make sure you are sure of all the facts.

And my issue with alan as i'm sure he is well aware is that instead of adding value and information he has decided to use my thread to advertise and not actually provide me with any of the information i requested.

His firs post was ammusing and i thanked him and paid homage at the altar of engine tuner, but the subsiquent posts were blatent advertising, which i don't mind if it is accompanied by the relevent information as requested but it was not .

Hence my further comments. Rant over

Oh and thanks for the advice. lol just read the first bit and was compelled to write the above.

 

Will that get me to 500 though

 

there was a period where peeps where discussing 4>5k for the labour alone, I thought it was justified it being pointed out that you could drive in and drive out with the whole conversion being completed for that price, not just advertising really

 

Yes mate Sorry im a bit touchy at the moment, but looking forward to the build.

Only question is what to do, choices, choices

 

Sorry mate, let's start again. What was it you wanted to know? I'll try and answer you, and I'll try and think of somewhere to get the bits done that you can't do, how's that?