Where to get a race spec Impreza shell?
#32
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RA and no there is no seal on it from the looks of thinks they either took a long time with a grinder before seam welding the whole shell and spraying it or it was acid dipped which is expensive but your guaranteed to have no seal on the shell every hole for wiring/servo etc has been plated/covered and the rear hangers have been plated and tubed for bolt through application the car was originally going to be used as a forest car hence all the extra strengthening of the shell which will make it very stiff just need to get some of the weight off now so looking at putting a few extra holes in the rear subframe
#33
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Just out of interest why do some people get so hung up about removing every last drop of sound deadening?
I can understand (almost) someone wanting a track car stripped but when you get down to the bones what are you achieving by saving a few kg's by removing awkward sound deadening? What 0.2 sec over 50 miles or something?
It's the sort of weight saving a touring car team or f1 team would dream of on the world stage with 20 other near identical cars!
Is it just me that thinks Joe bloggs on a once a month track day gets a bit carried away lol
Only thing I'd say is it looks better without it.
Obviously this is aimed at track day people or even road drivers (and meant to be light hearted before I get jumped on)
I can understand (almost) someone wanting a track car stripped but when you get down to the bones what are you achieving by saving a few kg's by removing awkward sound deadening? What 0.2 sec over 50 miles or something?
It's the sort of weight saving a touring car team or f1 team would dream of on the world stage with 20 other near identical cars!
Is it just me that thinks Joe bloggs on a once a month track day gets a bit carried away lol
Only thing I'd say is it looks better without it.
Obviously this is aimed at track day people or even road drivers (and meant to be light hearted before I get jumped on)
#35
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No doubt someone will come on here and give the ins and outs, in a nutshell the more weight you get off the less power you need (power to weight ratio etc) if you mix that in with a strengthened shell with hardly any flex mix that with a good suspension handling package you are on a winner (in my case maybe the driver will be the deciding factor )I have owned impreza's for years and just fancied something raw and got sick of air con creature comforts etc.......... I have another car for that.
#36
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No doubt someone will come on here and give the ins and outs, in a nutshell the more weight you get off the less power you need (power to weight ratio etc) if you mix that in with a strengthened shell with hardly any flex mix that with a good suspension handling package you are on a winner (in my case maybe the driver will be the deciding factor )I have owned impreza's for years and just fancied something raw and got sick of air con creature comforts etc.......... I have another car for that.
Thanks
Last edited by Saalro; 25 October 2017 at 09:42 PM.
#37
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It's not something i'm looking to buy as of now unless the right one at the right price came up, but what i'm thinking is that my shell a UK 2000 has under seal, seal in the seams and sound deadening.
I've alreadt started removing the sound deadening and and all the interior, just i'll never get all the seal and under seal unless i get it dropped in acid.
One day owning a shell with nothing but paint and metal with seam welds would be great.
Surely the WRC cars were free from deadinging and so on.
Thanks
Sam
I've alreadt started removing the sound deadening and and all the interior, just i'll never get all the seal and under seal unless i get it dropped in acid.
One day owning a shell with nothing but paint and metal with seam welds would be great.
Surely the WRC cars were free from deadinging and so on.
Thanks
Sam
It is not a good idea to dip a bodyshell in acid, all the paint inside the bodyshell where it is impossible to spray new paint (like inside the sills) will be removed, and the shell will start rusting very bad from the inside out.
Prodrive recived bare shells with only the grey "primer" paint that the bodyshells is dipped into and electricity put through the bath so the primerpaint will stick everywhere on the shell, although Prodrive did acid dip the shells i think, but they did not worry about the shells rusting from the inside out.
#38
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Oh really, thats very stange since i have been able to remove ALL oem underseal, sound deadening tar, seal in the seams and all other underseal and was sprayed on the car. It can be done if you want it to.
It is not a good idea to dip a bodyshell in acid, all the paint inside the bodyshell where it is impossible to spray new paint (like inside the sills) will be removed, and the shell will start rusting very bad from the inside out.
Prodrive recived bare shells with only the grey "primer" paint that the bodyshells is dipped into and electricity put through the bath so the primerpaint will stick everywhere on the shell, although Prodrive did acid dip the shells i think, but they did not worry about the shells rusting from the inside out.
It is not a good idea to dip a bodyshell in acid, all the paint inside the bodyshell where it is impossible to spray new paint (like inside the sills) will be removed, and the shell will start rusting very bad from the inside out.
Prodrive recived bare shells with only the grey "primer" paint that the bodyshells is dipped into and electricity put through the bath so the primerpaint will stick everywhere on the shell, although Prodrive did acid dip the shells i think, but they did not worry about the shells rusting from the inside out.
Thanks
Last edited by Saalro; 25 October 2017 at 09:43 PM.
#39
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No doubt someone will come on here and give the ins and outs, in a nutshell the more weight you get off the less power you need (power to weight ratio etc) if you mix that in with a strengthened shell with hardly any flex mix that with a good suspension handling package you are on a winner (in my case maybe the driver will be the deciding factor )I have owned impreza's for years and just fancied something raw and got sick of air con creature comforts etc.......... I have another car for that.
#40
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Scraping with different flat screwdrivers etc, cleaning with thinners, grinding with scroth brite and wire brush, cleaning again and so on...
To get in some seams i had a special "dentist" tool that worked very well untill it snapped...
How do you think all "amature" built competition cars start life as.. They all have the underseal, wax and seamsealer and people are able to remove it with no problem.
My car:
What i started with:
Scraping:
Grinding and sanding:
2k Epoxy primer:
2k final paint:
It is possible.
To get in some seams i had a special "dentist" tool that worked very well untill it snapped...
How do you think all "amature" built competition cars start life as.. They all have the underseal, wax and seamsealer and people are able to remove it with no problem.
My car:
What i started with:
Scraping:
Grinding and sanding:
2k Epoxy primer:
2k final paint:
It is possible.
#43
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Scraping with different flat screwdrivers etc, cleaning with thinners, grinding with scroth brite and wire brush, cleaning again and so on...
To get in some seams i had a special "dentist" tool that worked very well untill it snapped...
How do you think all "amature" built competition cars start life as.. They all have the underseal, wax and seamsealer and people are able to remove it with no problem.
My car:
What i started with:
Scraping:
Grinding and sanding:
2k Epoxy primer:
2k final paint:
It is possible.
To get in some seams i had a special "dentist" tool that worked very well untill it snapped...
How do you think all "amature" built competition cars start life as.. They all have the underseal, wax and seamsealer and people are able to remove it with no problem.
My car:
What i started with:
Scraping:
Grinding and sanding:
2k Epoxy primer:
2k final paint:
It is possible.
Looks lovely!
Thanks
Last edited by Saalro; 25 October 2017 at 09:44 PM.
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