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can an induction filter be too big????

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Old 08 August 2011 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
hmmm,my original plan isnt sounding too bad now....why is an rcm filter any better than a bigger k&n?
RCM is mostly used with big success like by tuners and customers with big power cars.Its something like icon in Air filter here in UK...
RCM replacement cost around £60-£70,RCM said is special designed by RCM made by K&N,you can try buy one from K&N,i've tried buy one similar but K&N said these only do for RCM

With your suggested air filter,will need first fit and mapped and you will see what will be,because i never tried this shape on car,its just guessing game now.

As i said before everybody using same shape due are proven,and many people don't like tested unproven things...





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Old 08 August 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jura11
RCM is mostly used with big success like by tuners and customers with big power cars.Its something like icon in Air filter here in UK...
RCM replacement cost around £60-£70,RCM said is special designed by RCM made by K&N,you can try buy one from K&N,i've tried buy one similar but K&N said these only do for RCM

With your suggested air filter,will need first fit and mapped and you will see what will be,because i never tried this shape on car,its just guessing game now.

As i said before everybody using same shape due are proven,and many people don't like tested unproven things...




Jura



thanks jura,im going to speak to rcm and see what can be done.
Old 08 August 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
thanks jura,im going to speak to rcm and see what can be done.
Don't worry,you don't need RCM big cone to buy,just something similar will o job nicely(same size and length),just have look at OpieOil for custom cone and you will see what can be done.


Jura
Old 08 August 2011 | 02:20 PM
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Aem/KN's dryflow (no need to oil and better filtration) filters are nice and the 9" ones with 4" inlet will support up to 1000 hp.
Old 08 August 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jura11
Don't worry,you don't need RCM big cone to buy,just something similar will o job nicely(same size and length),just have look at OpieOil for custom cone and you will see what can be done.


Jura
i spoke to rcm and they can probably supply me the cone and trumpet for a good price,all i will have to do is get my brother to make an adaptor plate and will leave the maf and oe intake where it is,this filter will be fine even at 500bhp and will cost only a fraction more of the original plan.
thinking this is probably the way to go now.
Old 08 August 2011 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
i spoke to rcm and they can probably supply me the cone and trumpet for a good price,all i will have to do is get my brother to make an adaptor plate and will leave the maf and oe intake where it is,this filter will be fine even at 500bhp and will cost only a fraction more of the original plan.
thinking this is probably the way to go now.
That's the great matey,they're mostly used at 400bhp+ engine build mostly,i'm using this.


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Old 08 August 2011 | 02:37 PM
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That RCM cone is very expensive, for what is essentially a different shaped K&N. I think mine (K&N) cost about £20
Old 08 August 2011 | 03:53 PM
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the induction kit consists of a couple parts which add huge cost to the filter.
im going to see if my brother can make the required parts and make my own kit to suit the rcm cone.
Old 08 August 2011 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bonesetter
That RCM cone is very expensive, for what is essentially a different shaped K&N. I think mine (K&N) cost about £20
RE - RCM induction kit - Talk to Harvey Smith

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Old 09 August 2011 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnD
RE - RCM induction kit - Talk to Harvey Smith

JohnD
I did... and had to run for cover
Old 09 August 2011 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bonesetter
I did... and had to run for cover
have had a chat with rcm,my brother is confident he can make a custom adaptor/trumpet,will be able to leave the oe pipe in place and fit an rcm induction kit but without spending silly £££s.
very handy having a brother that is a fully skilled welder/fabricator for stainless steel and alluminium.
he should be able to determine by tommorow wether there are any complication but i have every faith in him
once its all done and we have fitted the fmic/induction and cold feed ill post up some pics.
Old 09 August 2011 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
have had a chat with rcm,my brother is confident he can make a custom adaptor/trumpet,will be able to leave the oe pipe in place and fit an rcm induction kit but without spending silly £££s.
very handy having a brother that is a fully skilled welder/fabricator for stainless steel and alluminium.
he should be able to determine by tommorow wether there are any complication but i have every faith in him
once its all done and we have fitted the fmic/induction and cold feed ill post up some pics.
Old 09 August 2011 | 10:04 AM
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Can i ask, when you say the car needs be re-mapped after fitting induction kit ect. Do you need to do it straight away or can you run car without? Reason i ask is i got a k&n typhoon kit for my wrx and i want to fit it but wait until my exhaust system done too before i get it mapped, would that be ok? What will happen if i fit k&n without map?
Old 09 August 2011 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Reevezie
Can i ask, when you say the car needs be re-mapped after fitting induction kit ect. Do you need to do it straight away or can you run car without? Reason i ask is i got a k&n typhoon kit for my wrx and i want to fit it but wait until my exhaust system done too before i get it mapped, would that be ok? What will happen if i fit k&n without map?
Just don't drive it hard until it's mapped. Keep it out of any meaningful boost to be on the safe side.

JohnD
Old 09 August 2011 | 03:08 PM
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The reason for running a large filter is so that you have a big filtration surface area. This serves two purposes.
1) Rather obvious, it takes longer to clog up so you clean less frequently or it is longer before the clogging becomes restrictive.
2) The objective is to fit a filter that is large enough to result in minimal depression or vacum in the inlet tract. The impellor on the turbo has to act against any depression which can be signifigant at high load/power with a small fiter and eliminating this sucking improves performance.

Equally important is smooth air flow into the inlet tract. This is especially important when running a MAF Sensor. This is the reason for using an aluminium trumpet.

If you alter your induction you will alter the way in which the air is presented to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Do a really effective improvement, even without a MAF Sensor and the air volume could increase noticably. This could have a very signifigant effect on AFRs and if you run weak you could nip a piston in the bore or induce DET, neither of wqhich are good things and could cost you an engine.
As John says above, keep it off boost until remapped.

Lastly, if you are building an air box or induction system, remember aluminium is a very good heat conductor and heat at the filter is to be avoided. Look at thermally insulating surfaces exposed to heat. Carbon fibre is also easy to work with, has better insulation properties but still needs heat insulation.
Old 09 August 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by harvey
The reason for running a large filter is so that you have a big filtration surface area. This serves two purposes.
1) Rather obvious, it takes longer to clog up so you clean less frequently or it is longer before the clogging becomes restrictive.
2) The objective is to fit a filter that is large enough to result in minimal depression or vacum in the inlet tract. The impellor on the turbo has to act against any depression which can be signifigant at high load/power with a small fiter and eliminating this sucking improves performance.

Equally important is smooth air flow into the inlet tract. This is especially important when running a MAF Sensor. This is the reason for using an aluminium trumpet.

If you alter your induction you will alter the way in which the air is presented to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Do a really effective improvement, even without a MAF Sensor and the air volume could increase noticably. This could have a very signifigant effect on AFRs and if you run weak you could nip a piston in the bore or induce DET, neither of wqhich are good things and could cost you an engine.
As John says above, keep it off boost until remapped.

Lastly, if you are building an air box or induction system, remember aluminium is a very good heat conductor and heat at the filter is to be avoided. Look at thermally insulating surfaces exposed to heat. Carbon fibre is also easy to work with, has better insulation properties but still needs heat insulation.
cheers harvey,i can see the reason and why the trumpets are spun from alluminium,and also understand why there needs to be smooth flow to the maf,i am also well aware of remap once this is fitted along with fmic.
as regards to a "partition" in the engine bay,we were considering using stainless steel,and using it more like a heat shield to keep the hot air away from filter rather than an enclosed area,any thoughts?
thanks.
Old 09 August 2011 | 09:36 PM
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^ any kind of metal is the perfect conductor of heat from the engine into your precious space...

Better off using carbon fibre, or something a boat builder told me, a heat protective liner used in marine cooking areas, you can attach this to the metal separator
Old 09 August 2011 | 10:12 PM
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Cant help feeling that a shiny s.s induction kits looks great but as you say above, it conducts alot of heat so defeating the object.
Old 09 August 2011 | 10:16 PM
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My heat barrier is ally but completely wrapped in this stuff

I doesn't get hot

http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
Old 09 August 2011 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 53WRX
My heat barrier is ally but completely wrapped in this stuff

I doesn't get hot

http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
The boater told me one side can be super hot and the other cool

Not sure if it's shuttle re-entry proof mind
Old 09 August 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 53WRX
My heat barrier is ally but completely wrapped in this stuff

I doesn't get hot

http://www.agriemach.com/product_inf...psvu1750bdilb5
....this is now the next part that i need to look into as the adapter is now underway!
Old 10 August 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 99greenwagon
cheers harvey,i can see the reason and why the trumpets are spun from alluminium,and also understand why there needs to be smooth flow to the maf,i am also well aware of remap once this is fitted along with fmic.
as regards to a "partition" in the engine bay,we were considering using stainless steel,and using it more like a heat shield to keep the hot air away from filter rather than an enclosed area,any thoughts?
thanks.
A stainless steel shield will not "keep heat away" from the cone unless there is positive pressure in the filter area from a cold air feed. The stainless, which is a good conductor would act as a heat sink and would need to be thermally insulated.
Carbon fibre is much easier to work with and has a degree of flex. I would also thermally insulate the side of the carbon fibre facing the engine bay with reflective heat blanket insulation material. A vertical barrier/divider from the driver side chassis rail up to the bonnet will be far more effective, especially if you feed more air into the filter area than the engine consumes.
Old 10 August 2011 | 02:22 PM
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Can you get some pics up please Harvey?


Thanks
Old 10 August 2011 | 06:00 PM
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So no nice shiny induction kit for me then 
Old 10 August 2011 | 07:43 PM
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you can use a "shiny" induction kit....just make a cold air feed for the filter!!
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