intercooler waterspray set up pics,diagram
18 August 2011, 04:24 PM
#33
I origanaly replied trying to help;
you got funny with this reply;
I then furthered my reply more specificaly after your huff;
Now you think im being out of order?
I dont quite see your point, it is the switching point you can adjust not the maximum operating pressure.
For example you could switch it at 3 psi and it will remain on all the way upto the maximum boost you are running, 30 psi or whatever.
In the same instance you could adjust it and have it switch at 15 psi (not really wise tbh) and have it remain on up until 30 psi (if you had supporting mods)
I personnally will switch it lower in the boost, as when accelerating, at peak torque, the point at which peak boost is first made, there will allready be water being sprayed on the cooler, due to it being switched on at a lower boost level.
For example you could switch it at 3 psi and it will remain on all the way upto the maximum boost you are running, 30 psi or whatever.
In the same instance you could adjust it and have it switch at 15 psi (not really wise tbh) and have it remain on up until 30 psi (if you had supporting mods)
I personnally will switch it lower in the boost, as when accelerating, at peak torque, the point at which peak boost is first made, there will allready be water being sprayed on the cooler, due to it being switched on at a lower boost level.
I then furthered my reply more specificaly after your huff;
Now you think im being out of order?
18 August 2011, 04:32 PM
#34
Yes, I think you are being out of order, but I am desperately rtrying to move on. Just leave it will you? Whats your problem????
I disagree with the way you are talking to me. I can read, don’t need you to copy everything. Thanks for trying to “Educate” me! Now shall we get back to topic????
I disagree with the way you are talking to me. I can read, don’t need you to copy everything. Thanks for trying to “Educate” me! Now shall we get back to topic????
19 August 2011, 09:07 AM
#35
chill out lads,
thanks for all the info so far, but im only fitting a manual switch so only looking at wiring one of them in and the above pic is fine, will buy a 4 pin relay and get it done unless anyone has pics of how they did it,
cheers tom
thanks for all the info so far, but im only fitting a manual switch so only looking at wiring one of them in and the above pic is fine, will buy a 4 pin relay and get it done unless anyone has pics of how they did it,
cheers tom
19 August 2011, 10:21 AM
#36
If I set the boost sensor to turn the intercooler spray on at 10 PSI (0.67 bar) this equates to 2700 RPM with my turbo spool up. The water tank will be empty before I get to the end of the road. lol
But that said, mine is on full boost by just after 3000 RPM so not much in it really. Also it doesnt get driven on full throttle & full boost all the time.
I think for me its more important to work out a way of keeping the intake temperatures down when stuck in traffic stationary. i.e. manual switch.
p.s. Please dont take this as a dig or arguement, I am only saying. Just wanted to get back on topic with this.
19 August 2011, 11:26 AM
#39
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I've got one fitted to my Subaru powered beach buggy, can't give any figures though just yet.
Although I will mention that after a couple of drag runs and a fair amount of stationary running of the engine the chargecooler body was icy cold.
Although I will mention that after a couple of drag runs and a fair amount of stationary running of the engine the chargecooler body was icy cold.
19 August 2011, 12:17 PM
#40
Just worked the figures out according to my latest rolling road graph. I am running 1.35bar boost (19.5 PSI) max. (1 bar = 14.5 PSI).
If I set the boost sensor to turn the intercooler spray on at 10 PSI (0.67 bar) this equates to 2700 RPM with my turbo spool up. The water tank will be empty before I get to the end of the road. lol
But that said, mine is on full boost by just after 3000 RPM so not much in it really. Also it doesnt get driven on full throttle & full boost all the time.
I think for me its more important to work out a way of keeping the intake temperatures down when stuck in traffic stationary. i.e. manual switch.
p.s. Please dont take this as a dig or arguement, I am only saying. Just wanted to get back on topic with this.
If I set the boost sensor to turn the intercooler spray on at 10 PSI (0.67 bar) this equates to 2700 RPM with my turbo spool up. The water tank will be empty before I get to the end of the road. lol
But that said, mine is on full boost by just after 3000 RPM so not much in it really. Also it doesnt get driven on full throttle & full boost all the time.
I think for me its more important to work out a way of keeping the intake temperatures down when stuck in traffic stationary. i.e. manual switch.
p.s. Please dont take this as a dig or arguement, I am only saying. Just wanted to get back on topic with this.
19 August 2011, 12:18 PM
#41
Not really ideal tbh, you cant get better than air to air intercooler, as essentially a chargecooler still has to loose the heat through an air to air rad also, plus the heatsoak on a scoob would be massive i would think?
19 August 2011, 02:03 PM
#42
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If you imagine something as simple as a hot frying pan, wave it around in the air and it'll take a long time to cool down. Now take the hot frying pan and submerse in cold water at maybe 15 degrees celcius and the pan will cool almost instantly plus if you take the pan out the water the water temp will only have raised by a couple of degrees.
Most of the major drag cars use them plus if you wanted to you could set up a system that used Co2 and achieve below ambient charge temps.
19 August 2011, 02:18 PM
#43
The quantity of the water and the low temps of the water outweigh th high temps.
If you imagine something as simple as a hot frying pan, wave it around in the air and it'll take a long time to cool down. Now take the hot frying pan and submerse in cold water at maybe 15 degrees celcius and the pan will cool almost instantly plus if you take the pan out the water the water temp will only have raised by a couple of degrees.
Most of the major drag cars use them plus if you wanted to you could set up a system that used Co2 and achieve below ambient charge temps.
If you imagine something as simple as a hot frying pan, wave it around in the air and it'll take a long time to cool down. Now take the hot frying pan and submerse in cold water at maybe 15 degrees celcius and the pan will cool almost instantly plus if you take the pan out the water the water temp will only have raised by a couple of degrees.
Most of the major drag cars use them plus if you wanted to you could set up a system that used Co2 and achieve below ambient charge temps.
The problem arises when sitting in traffic or after a long period of hard driving the water temp comes up quite a lot.
This temperature has to be cooled by a radiator on the front of the car, not good in traffic, so essentailly you have a charge coller full of hot water, not brilliant.
Drag cars have no charge cooler rad, as they are run for 10 seconds at a time ice cold water can be put into the charge cooler just before a run
19 August 2011, 02:33 PM
#45
19 August 2011, 11:51 PM
#48
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You need to find out which pinout goes to ground for the water spray. Contact your supplier/tuner and ask them. If you have the software you can set it all up yourself. I connected the ground wire from the ecu to the ground terminal on the timer relay and a JDM auto switch activates it.
20 August 2011, 07:29 AM
#49
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You need to find out which pinout goes to ground for the water spray. Contact your supplier/tuner and ask them. If you have the software you can set it all up yourself. I connected the ground wire from the ecu to the ground terminal on the timer relay and a JDM auto switch activates it.
24 August 2011, 07:43 AM
#50
Here is the switch im using;
90 psi max working pressure, adjustable to switch between 3 and 15 psi via a screw.
The pressure goes in via the 1/8" NPT nipple, the other barb is solely for a breather pipe and not really required.
90 psi max working pressure, adjustable to switch between 3 and 15 psi via a screw.
The pressure goes in via the 1/8" NPT nipple, the other barb is solely for a breather pipe and not really required.
24 August 2011, 10:56 AM
#52
Cool, looks good!
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produc...633D4E4F4E4526
Looks like they have changed the spec slightly since you ordered yours, but if very similar still. Working range now 0.25 bar to 1.35 bar and max permissible pressure 3.1 bar so ideal for this! Good find that! Nice work!!!!!
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produc...633D4E4F4E4526
Looks like they have changed the spec slightly since you ordered yours, but if very similar still. Working range now 0.25 bar to 1.35 bar and max permissible pressure 3.1 bar so ideal for this! Good find that! Nice work!!!!!
24 August 2011, 11:00 AM
#53
cool, ill check it out. I used this on my first turbo project around nine years ago to actuate a fuel enrichment device, so the specs could of changed quite a lot!
24 August 2011, 11:08 AM
#55
think this is the closest thing, ideal for a simple water spray system, no need for a reylay either id say;
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pressure-sensors/3971141/
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pressure-sensors/3971141/
24 August 2011, 01:31 PM
#57
temp monitoring seems to be the best way, but at what temps should we be kicking in, ie whats dangerous levels, but a temp that wont empty the tank through normal driving lol.
24 August 2011, 01:39 PM
#58
And would have to be charge temp. So would mean fitting a temperature sensor in the silicone hose between intercooler & inlet manifold.
Best thing to do is fit one and monitor the temperatures. Get an idea of average running temps, idle temps, hot day temps etc etc.
Boost activated would be easier.
Best thing to do is fit one and monitor the temperatures. Get an idea of average running temps, idle temps, hot day temps etc etc.
Boost activated would be easier.
24 August 2011, 01:46 PM
#59
not ideal lads, has to be boost and charge temp not just charge temp, sitting in traffic it would come on and drain the tank in minutes. above 35 degrees is a good temp to switch at
24 August 2011, 01:52 PM
#60
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Also a good point about the boost switch. If your not moving theres no air going through the intercooler so you'll empty the tank and barely reduce the temp. In traffic my charge temp goes up to around 50c!!!
