intercooler waterspray set up pics,diagram
24 August 2011, 02:03 PM
#62
like this! 45 degrees switching point, still looking for a lower one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-NC-T...item256696c483
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-NC-T...item256696c483
25 August 2011, 10:12 AM
#63
Interesting thread as I have been thinking about how to reduce IAT as well.
The "problem" I see is that IAT temperatures are measured at the MAF and when sitting in start/stop traffic for a long time with ambient temperatures of 30C, IAT can reach 45-60C!
There is no way a waterspray I/C can reduce IAT temperatures by a significant amount to make a difference IMHO but if someone has done the experiment I would like to see the test results.
It's not as if you are pushing the car when sitting in traffic so even if there was an efficient way to drop IAT it wouldn't really have much effect.
The best thing to do is to stay off boost after traffic jams until IAT has dropped, so it might be a better idea to invest on something like a scangauge.
The ECU removes ignition advance anyway when IAT is above 50-60C.
The "problem" I see is that IAT temperatures are measured at the MAF and when sitting in start/stop traffic for a long time with ambient temperatures of 30C, IAT can reach 45-60C!
There is no way a waterspray I/C can reduce IAT temperatures by a significant amount to make a difference IMHO but if someone has done the experiment I would like to see the test results.
It's not as if you are pushing the car when sitting in traffic so even if there was an efficient way to drop IAT it wouldn't really have much effect.
The best thing to do is to stay off boost after traffic jams until IAT has dropped, so it might be a better idea to invest on something like a scangauge.
The ECU removes ignition advance anyway when IAT is above 50-60C.
Last edited by fpan; 25 August 2011 at 10:22 AM.
25 August 2011, 10:26 AM
#65
Indeed but who has a thermocouple fitted?
What I am trying to say is that if IAT at the MAF (which is what the ECU measures) are 60C there wouldn't be much difference after the I/C when stationary and not much can be done to reduce them IMHO.
I could be wrong but would like to see some data for comparison purposes from someone who has done it and compare IAT at the MAF and post the I/C when sitting in traffic.
What I am trying to say is that if IAT at the MAF (which is what the ECU measures) are 60C there wouldn't be much difference after the I/C when stationary and not much can be done to reduce them IMHO.
I could be wrong but would like to see some data for comparison purposes from someone who has done it and compare IAT at the MAF and post the I/C when sitting in traffic.
Last edited by fpan; 25 August 2011 at 10:27 AM.
25 August 2011, 10:31 AM
#66
The big problem is heat soak on the intercooler from the exhaust and turbo. This can dramatically increase the temperature of the air going through the intercooler.
My fault code reader can monitor live data from the MAF temperature so may make a log of these.
Supposedly it is quite easy to fit a thermocouple or temp sensor into the hose between the intercooler and throttle. Few have done it on here and just sealed it with super glue and not found problems.
I would also be very interested in the results to see if water spray can actually make a difference.
My fault code reader can monitor live data from the MAF temperature so may make a log of these.
Supposedly it is quite easy to fit a thermocouple or temp sensor into the hose between the intercooler and throttle. Few have done it on here and just sealed it with super glue and not found problems.
I would also be very interested in the results to see if water spray can actually make a difference.
25 August 2011, 10:40 AM
#67
Indeed but who has a thermocouple fitted?
What I am trying to say is that if IAT at the MAF (which is what the ECU measures) are 60C there wouldn't be much difference after the I/C when stationary and not much can be done to reduce them IMHO.
I could be wrong but would like to see some data for comparison purposes from someone who has done it and compare IAT at the MAF and post the I/C when sitting in traffic.
What I am trying to say is that if IAT at the MAF (which is what the ECU measures) are 60C there wouldn't be much difference after the I/C when stationary and not much can be done to reduce them IMHO.
I could be wrong but would like to see some data for comparison purposes from someone who has done it and compare IAT at the MAF and post the I/C when sitting in traffic.
I would not see IC water spray as a heat soak deterrant but more of a fast driving aid, thats the way i see it anyway, butthen Im never sitting in traffic ever with my car
living 30 miles from the nearest city
25 August 2011, 10:41 AM
#68
again, i have one at home i will take a pic of and show you mate
25 August 2011, 10:45 AM
#69
@ BrownPantsRacing, what sort of IAT do you see with your OBD scanner?
In my previous WRX when crusing on the motorway IAT would be +3 to +6 from ambient but the car was standard and the design of the intake is different between the Impreza and the Forester I have now.
I check IAT in my PSI3 but in the Forester it is always +9 from ambient, usually +10.
This is one of the reasons I have been thinking on how to reduce IAT with a waterspray.
Imreza engine bay and intake (notice the neck that sucks in air right from the front
FSTi engine bay (the neck -bottom left above the power steering reservoir- is much smaller and sits a little behind hence not so much exposed to fresh air from the front)
In my previous WRX when crusing on the motorway IAT would be +3 to +6 from ambient but the car was standard and the design of the intake is different between the Impreza and the Forester I have now.
I check IAT in my PSI3 but in the Forester it is always +9 from ambient, usually +10.
This is one of the reasons I have been thinking on how to reduce IAT with a waterspray.
Imreza engine bay and intake (notice the neck that sucks in air right from the front
FSTi engine bay (the neck -bottom left above the power steering reservoir- is much smaller and sits a little behind hence not so much exposed to fresh air from the front)
Last edited by fpan; 25 August 2011 at 10:46 AM.
25 August 2011, 10:48 AM
#70
@ Boosted, have you relocated the temperature sensor from the MAF then?
I am interested to see your charge temperatures in comparison with ambient in different driving and weather conditions as that's what matters indeed.
Can you post some results up?
I am interested to see your charge temperatures in comparison with ambient in different driving and weather conditions as that's what matters indeed.
Can you post some results up?
25 August 2011, 11:23 AM
#71
@ BrownPantsRacing, what sort of IAT do you see with your OBD scanner?
In my previous WRX when crusing on the motorway IAT would be +3 to +6 from ambient but the car was standard and the design of the intake is different between the Impreza and the Forester I have now.
I check IAT in my PSI3 but in the Forester it is always +9 from ambient, usually +10.
This is one of the reasons I have been thinking on how to reduce IAT with a waterspray.
In my previous WRX when crusing on the motorway IAT would be +3 to +6 from ambient but the car was standard and the design of the intake is different between the Impreza and the Forester I have now.
I check IAT in my PSI3 but in the Forester it is always +9 from ambient, usually +10.
This is one of the reasons I have been thinking on how to reduce IAT with a waterspray.
25 August 2011, 11:33 AM
#72
Charge temps are usually 5-10 degrees under light load normal driving, increasing to 15-20 degrees above when driven hard. Heat soak they increase drastically to 50+ degrees, but this is not a main concern to me.
Good topic btw
25 August 2011, 12:13 PM
#74
CO2 it is then, lol
thinking about it, the best sytem would be a mix of both boost and temp operation, also with a timer worked in say, once you have hit a fast road boost pressure, the system will then know that it should spary the intercooler for 3 second burst in a set of three, then de activate till that boost is hit again, charge temp could be monitored too and worked in some how, just need to be a genius how to make it lol
thinking about it, the best sytem would be a mix of both boost and temp operation, also with a timer worked in say, once you have hit a fast road boost pressure, the system will then know that it should spary the intercooler for 3 second burst in a set of three, then de activate till that boost is hit again, charge temp could be monitored too and worked in some how, just need to be a genius how to make it lol
25 August 2011, 03:01 PM
#75
Im seriously considering making a diy water injection kit, recon it can be done for less than £50, but as i have most of the parts it will cost less than £20 for me to do, ill maybe post a thread if/when i do it on here?
25 August 2011, 10:11 PM
#76
started work on the intercooler spray,
bought another washer jet pump and gromet and fitted it to the washer bottle
then fitted my pipe work up along the oem routing to the scoop,
i need to find a decent mister to spary the cooler, i also have an electronics guru next door who is making me a boost operated system, so that when i hit 1bar they system activates and cycles a 3 second on, 3 second off 3 second on mist, its fully adjustable system so we can play with the settings.
bought another washer jet pump and gromet and fitted it to the washer bottle
then fitted my pipe work up along the oem routing to the scoop,
i need to find a decent mister to spary the cooler, i also have an electronics guru next door who is making me a boost operated system, so that when i hit 1bar they system activates and cycles a 3 second on, 3 second off 3 second on mist, its fully adjustable system so we can play with the settings.
26 August 2011, 07:27 PM
#77
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Ive recently fitted a misting spray with variable timer. Youtube vid below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnmWR...e_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnmWR...e_gdata_player
27 August 2011, 09:24 AM
#78
after doing some research water injection post intercoooler is the way to go, all the parts can be had quite cheaply
http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html
http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html
27 August 2011, 10:05 AM
#79
i agree water/meth is the better solution for sure, just a little harder to fit, lets face it, most of us prob dont need the intercooler spray lol, but for £15-£20 its pretty cool (get it haha)
30 August 2011, 07:34 AM
#80
started work on the intercooler spray,
bought another washer jet pump and gromet and fitted it to the washer bottle
i need to find a decent mister to spary the cooler, i also have an electronics guru next door who is making me a boost operated system, so that when i hit 1bar they system activates and cycles a 3 second on, 3 second off 3 second on mist, its fully adjustable system so we can play with the settings.
bought another washer jet pump and gromet and fitted it to the washer bottle
i need to find a decent mister to spary the cooler, i also have an electronics guru next door who is making me a boost operated system, so that when i hit 1bar they system activates and cycles a 3 second on, 3 second off 3 second on mist, its fully adjustable system so we can play with the settings.
30 August 2011, 08:52 AM
#82
The only "problem" with using the washer bottle is that you can't use the solutions for cleaning the windscreen; I guess you could always use a mixture of isopropyl alcohol to prevent the water from freezing and have better cooling effects though
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