BC Coilovers
#34
fpan,
Droop is the amount of downward travel the suspension allows from the position it sits at when its supporting the cars weight.
The softer the kit the longer the travel to prevent excessive bottoming out. Obviously the kits will still bottom out if you start doing a bit of bridge jumping ala Dukes or Hazzard but generally they should hardly ever hit the bump stops.
Fleetwood,
The softer the spring and damping rate the longer the travel by default. However if you add the assister springs then you need additional travel as the assister springs we use are purely there to prevent spring dislocation and allow greater droop so you immediately need an additional 50mm of travel irrespective of spring or damping rate.
wilbo,
6/5 for the New Age gives a ride akin to thre stock STi on the softer daping settings. Default rate for the GC8 Classis is 5/4kg.mm. We have stiffer and softer kits for both.
-Nic-,
No problem
They are not yet TUV approved. Its something Im looking at but as we dont need the approval for the UK and the UK is our main market its not an time and financial expense thats a priority right now
crazyspeedfreakz,
We have spanner sets in stock, £12 per pair of spanners.
Droop is the amount of downward travel the suspension allows from the position it sits at when its supporting the cars weight.
The softer the kit the longer the travel to prevent excessive bottoming out. Obviously the kits will still bottom out if you start doing a bit of bridge jumping ala Dukes or Hazzard but generally they should hardly ever hit the bump stops.
Fleetwood,
The softer the spring and damping rate the longer the travel by default. However if you add the assister springs then you need additional travel as the assister springs we use are purely there to prevent spring dislocation and allow greater droop so you immediately need an additional 50mm of travel irrespective of spring or damping rate.
wilbo,
6/5 for the New Age gives a ride akin to thre stock STi on the softer daping settings. Default rate for the GC8 Classis is 5/4kg.mm. We have stiffer and softer kits for both.
-Nic-,
No problem
They are not yet TUV approved. Its something Im looking at but as we dont need the approval for the UK and the UK is our main market its not an time and financial expense thats a priority right now
crazyspeedfreakz,
We have spanner sets in stock, £12 per pair of spanners.
#35
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (92)
fpan,
Droop is the amount of downward travel the suspension allows from the position it sits at when its supporting the cars weight.
The softer the kit the longer the travel to prevent excessive bottoming out. Obviously the kits will still bottom out if you start doing a bit of bridge jumping ala Dukes or Hazzard but generally they should hardly ever hit the bump stops.
Fleetwood,
The softer the spring and damping rate the longer the travel by default. However if you add the assister springs then you need additional travel as the assister springs we use are purely there to prevent spring dislocation and allow greater droop so you immediately need an additional 50mm of travel irrespective of spring or damping rate.
wilbo,
6/5 for the New Age gives a ride akin to thre stock STi on the softer daping settings. Default rate for the GC8 Classis is 5/4kg.mm. We have stiffer and softer kits for both.
-Nic-,
No problem
They are not yet TUV approved. Its something Im looking at but as we dont need the approval for the UK and the UK is our main market its not an time and financial expense thats a priority right now
crazyspeedfreakz,
We have spanner sets in stock, £12 per pair of spanners.
Droop is the amount of downward travel the suspension allows from the position it sits at when its supporting the cars weight.
The softer the kit the longer the travel to prevent excessive bottoming out. Obviously the kits will still bottom out if you start doing a bit of bridge jumping ala Dukes or Hazzard but generally they should hardly ever hit the bump stops.
Fleetwood,
The softer the spring and damping rate the longer the travel by default. However if you add the assister springs then you need additional travel as the assister springs we use are purely there to prevent spring dislocation and allow greater droop so you immediately need an additional 50mm of travel irrespective of spring or damping rate.
wilbo,
6/5 for the New Age gives a ride akin to thre stock STi on the softer daping settings. Default rate for the GC8 Classis is 5/4kg.mm. We have stiffer and softer kits for both.
-Nic-,
No problem
They are not yet TUV approved. Its something Im looking at but as we dont need the approval for the UK and the UK is our main market its not an time and financial expense thats a priority right now
crazyspeedfreakz,
We have spanner sets in stock, £12 per pair of spanners.
Thanks bought the set about a hour ago from yourselves ... Can u please advise on how to set my bc br's up, the they are in good condition but do need adjustment on the ride Hight, currenly the springs can be moved about 10mm up and down as the rings are so low ! Help would be much appreciated
#36
Set spring preload to 3mm.
The spring length should be printed on the spring in the following format:
62.180.006
62 = spring id in mm
180 = spring length in mm
006 = spring rate in kg,mm
To set spring preload have a look to see what length your spring is. Then set spring preload via the spring platform so the total spring length with preload applied is 3mm less than the free printed spring length.
If the free printed spring length is 180mm then the spring should measure 177mm when installed with the correct preload.
The fact that your springs are rattling around shows how these kits can be set incorrectly and so generate noises. Its not unusual for user install error to be the cause of noises and issues. Sadly its also common for these customers to then complain on the net about their noisy coilovers
The spring length should be printed on the spring in the following format:
62.180.006
62 = spring id in mm
180 = spring length in mm
006 = spring rate in kg,mm
To set spring preload have a look to see what length your spring is. Then set spring preload via the spring platform so the total spring length with preload applied is 3mm less than the free printed spring length.
If the free printed spring length is 180mm then the spring should measure 177mm when installed with the correct preload.
The fact that your springs are rattling around shows how these kits can be set incorrectly and so generate noises. Its not unusual for user install error to be the cause of noises and issues. Sadly its also common for these customers to then complain on the net about their noisy coilovers
#37
I didn't mean it like that, just that it is wrong to make comparisons between two different set ups. Comparisons should be like for like.
I appreciate how I wrote it could be misinterpreted.
I wasn't having a dig at BC's. IMO they are a very good bit of kit and keenly priced
Out of interest, do they have TUV approval?
I appreciate how I wrote it could be misinterpreted.
I wasn't having a dig at BC's. IMO they are a very good bit of kit and keenly priced
Out of interest, do they have TUV approval?
#41
Are you going to run on track tyres later in the year? Are you going to uprate the anti roll bars?
Do you want to keep the car usable day to day on the road or do you want to focus on pure on track performance?
Aero - wings, splitter, flat floor, diffuser etc
if you are going to uprate the roll bars then you can use them to help control body roll so you dont need to go so stiff on spring rate.
The sticker the tyre you run the harder the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
If you are running aero then the stiffer the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
However if you want to retain day to day usability then its going to be a compromise.
Do you want to keep the car usable day to day on the road or do you want to focus on pure on track performance?
Aero - wings, splitter, flat floor, diffuser etc
if you are going to uprate the roll bars then you can use them to help control body roll so you dont need to go so stiff on spring rate.
The sticker the tyre you run the harder the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
If you are running aero then the stiffer the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
However if you want to retain day to day usability then its going to be a compromise.
#44
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (92)
Set spring preload to 3mm.
The spring length should be printed on the spring in the following format:
62.180.006
62 = spring id in mm
180 = spring length in mm
006 = spring rate in kg,mm
To set spring preload have a look to see what length your spring is. Then set spring preload via the spring platform so the total spring length with preload applied is 3mm less than the free printed spring length.
If the free printed spring length is 180mm then the spring should measure 177mm when installed with the correct preload.
The fact that your springs are rattling around shows how these kits can be set incorrectly and so generate noises. Its not unusual for user install error to be the cause of noises and issues. Sadly its also common for these customers to then complain on the net about their noisy coilovers
The spring length should be printed on the spring in the following format:
62.180.006
62 = spring id in mm
180 = spring length in mm
006 = spring rate in kg,mm
To set spring preload have a look to see what length your spring is. Then set spring preload via the spring platform so the total spring length with preload applied is 3mm less than the free printed spring length.
If the free printed spring length is 180mm then the spring should measure 177mm when installed with the correct preload.
The fact that your springs are rattling around shows how these kits can be set incorrectly and so generate noises. Its not unusual for user install error to be the cause of noises and issues. Sadly its also common for these customers to then complain on the net about their noisy coilovers
Thanks, I just check the spring length the fronts are 200mm and the rears are 220mm.
Dose the 3mm adjustment still apply
Thanks again
#47
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
Are you going to run on track tyres later in the year? Are you going to uprate the anti roll bars?
Do you want to keep the car usable day to day on the road or do you want to focus on pure on track performance?
Aero - wings, splitter, flat floor, diffuser etc
if you are going to uprate the roll bars then you can use them to help control body roll so you dont need to go so stiff on spring rate.
The sticker the tyre you run the harder the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
If you are running aero then the stiffer the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
However if you want to retain day to day usability then its going to be a compromise.
Do you want to keep the car usable day to day on the road or do you want to focus on pure on track performance?
Aero - wings, splitter, flat floor, diffuser etc
if you are going to uprate the roll bars then you can use them to help control body roll so you dont need to go so stiff on spring rate.
The sticker the tyre you run the harder the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
If you are running aero then the stiffer the spring/ARB combo needs to be.
However if you want to retain day to day usability then its going to be a compromise.
#49
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
fpan,
Droop is the amount of downward travel the suspension allows from the position it sits at when its supporting the cars weight.
The softer the kit the longer the travel to prevent excessive bottoming out. Obviously the kits will still bottom out if you start doing a bit of bridge jumping ala Dukes or Hazzard but generally they should hardly ever hit the bump stops.
Fleetwood,
The softer the spring and damping rate the longer the travel by default. However if you add the assister springs then you need additional travel as the assister springs we use are purely there to prevent spring dislocation and allow greater droop so you immediately need an additional 50mm of travel irrespective of spring or damping rate.
Droop is the amount of downward travel the suspension allows from the position it sits at when its supporting the cars weight.
The softer the kit the longer the travel to prevent excessive bottoming out. Obviously the kits will still bottom out if you start doing a bit of bridge jumping ala Dukes or Hazzard but generally they should hardly ever hit the bump stops.
Fleetwood,
The softer the spring and damping rate the longer the travel by default. However if you add the assister springs then you need additional travel as the assister springs we use are purely there to prevent spring dislocation and allow greater droop so you immediately need an additional 50mm of travel irrespective of spring or damping rate.
#50
Light track really so it can still go out on the roads, plus budget doesnt allow to go that far. Planning on uprating anti roll bars and changing standard prodrive springs and sti shocks, for coilovers. That will be about it suspension wise. just want to have some fun in it.
The coilovers with softer springs automatically come with longer damper travel if necessary. For example we have stock of New age 6/5kg.mm kits and 5/4kg.mm kits. The kits use different spec dampers to suit the spring rates. The same applies to the Classic 5/4kg.mm and 4/3kg,mm kits, they run different spec dampers automatically.
#52
Id advise you to buy this year, not next. The kits are going up in price on Jan 3rd.
Ive just got in after an operation on general aesthetic so my heads not quite right so let me look into a local centre for you on Monday
Ive just got in after an operation on general aesthetic so my heads not quite right so let me look into a local centre for you on Monday
#53
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Does anybody know best place to get these? Looking for a set for my BL5 Legacy. Would the BR or RM ones be best for a daily driver? I'll be also upgrading the anti roll bars and droplinks soon enough too 6/8kg seems to be the default springs for the legacy fitment would this be ok for daily driving? Currently on a set of Bilsteins shocks with STI pinks which i think dont have much life left on them, so the BC's seem like great value upgrade.
#57
Had my BC Racing Coilovers for a good 12-18months now, absolutely no issues up until a few weeks ago. Rear nearside top mount started to knock.
On inspection the rubber had worn away due to the angle of the middle bolt and this was hitting the cup. Te off side was the same but the rubber was just about stopping it making a noise.
Sent a bit of a moaning e-mail to BC Racing themselves (originally bought from Scoobyparts.com) and they explained that there had been a very small number of mounts produced that were faulty. Any ways, top 5 star customer service and support they rang me back (with in 10 minutes of the e-mail being sent) and I have 2 new top mounts coming my way for free cant speak highly enough of them. They did state that the problem had now been sorted on all the new kits. Quality Kit and even better customer service.
On inspection the rubber had worn away due to the angle of the middle bolt and this was hitting the cup. Te off side was the same but the rubber was just about stopping it making a noise.
Sent a bit of a moaning e-mail to BC Racing themselves (originally bought from Scoobyparts.com) and they explained that there had been a very small number of mounts produced that were faulty. Any ways, top 5 star customer service and support they rang me back (with in 10 minutes of the e-mail being sent) and I have 2 new top mounts coming my way for free cant speak highly enough of them. They did state that the problem had now been sorted on all the new kits. Quality Kit and even better customer service.
#58
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One of the things I will be doing in the future with my spec c is changing the suspension, now BC's are a good entry level but ive heard of corrosion issues after a year, plus (and no dig at anyone here), you do pay for what you get.
Note good entry level.
If you are willing to spend some more cash then I have heard this is the setup you need (as ran on by people like Andy F etc) http://www.kw-suspension.co.uk/
I shall be looking at these as a viable option, I dont skimp when it comes to the important parts on cars If i do anything then I try to afford the best i can.
Tony
Note good entry level.
If you are willing to spend some more cash then I have heard this is the setup you need (as ran on by people like Andy F etc) http://www.kw-suspension.co.uk/
I shall be looking at these as a viable option, I dont skimp when it comes to the important parts on cars If i do anything then I try to afford the best i can.
Tony
#59
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One of the things I will be doing in the future with my spec c is changing the suspension, now BC's are a good entry level but ive heard of corrosion issues after a year, plus (and no dig at anyone here), you do pay for what you get.
Note good entry level.
If you are willing to spend some more cash then I have heard this is the setup you need (as ran on by people like Andy F etc) http://www.kw-suspension.co.uk/
I shall be looking at these as a viable option, I dont skimp when it comes to the important parts on cars If i do anything then I try to afford the best i can.
Tony
Note good entry level.
If you are willing to spend some more cash then I have heard this is the setup you need (as ran on by people like Andy F etc) http://www.kw-suspension.co.uk/
I shall be looking at these as a viable option, I dont skimp when it comes to the important parts on cars If i do anything then I try to afford the best i can.
Tony
You'll need deep pockets though.
I have BCs on mine and I have to say so far they are easily the best coilovers I've tried. Time will tell on the durability front, but generally you get what you pay for in this respect, so I won't complain if they don't last 5 years!
BTW I know of one very reputable tuner who won't touch KW stuff, describing their products as "poor quality!"
Probably worth mentioning that RCM stock BC Coilovers; and they're not known for supplying poor quality produts. In fact when I spoke to them over the phone, they described them as excellent and throughly reccommended them for a road car!
Last edited by New_scooby_04; 17 December 2011 at 12:13 PM.