Fitting boost gauge
#34
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Andy: I keep posting this, but you aren't getting it:
IT'S NOT THE HEADLIGHT LIVE, IT'S A LIGHTING LIVE
The wire you want will be the one that provides illumination to the switches. The best one is either the hrw, or the cig lighter, as they are illuminated. (My Hazards switch doesn't seem to be).
It will be live ONLY when both IGN and sidelights, (NOT headlights, but it WILL be live when they are on.) are on. IGN will need to be on TWO clicks, ie: just before you turn it against the spring to start it, all dash warning lights lit up.
Are we clear now?
IT'S NOT THE HEADLIGHT LIVE, IT'S A LIGHTING LIVE
The wire you want will be the one that provides illumination to the switches. The best one is either the hrw, or the cig lighter, as they are illuminated. (My Hazards switch doesn't seem to be).
It will be live ONLY when both IGN and sidelights, (NOT headlights, but it WILL be live when they are on.) are on. IGN will need to be on TWO clicks, ie: just before you turn it against the spring to start it, all dash warning lights lit up.
Are we clear now?
#35
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Andy: I keep posting this, but you aren't getting it:
IT'S NOT THE HEADLIGHT LIVE, IT'S A LIGHTING LIVE
The wire you want will be the one that provides illumination to the switches. The best one is either the hrw, or the cig lighter, as they are illuminated. (My Hazards switch doesn't seem to be).
It will be live ONLY when both IGN and sidelights, (NOT headlights, but it WILL be live when they are on.) are on. IGN will need to be on TWO clicks, ie: just before you turn it against the spring to start it, all dash warning lights lit up.
Are we clear now?
IT'S NOT THE HEADLIGHT LIVE, IT'S A LIGHTING LIVE
The wire you want will be the one that provides illumination to the switches. The best one is either the hrw, or the cig lighter, as they are illuminated. (My Hazards switch doesn't seem to be).
It will be live ONLY when both IGN and sidelights, (NOT headlights, but it WILL be live when they are on.) are on. IGN will need to be on TWO clicks, ie: just before you turn it against the spring to start it, all dash warning lights lit up.
Are we clear now?
Ah think the penny has dropped. In the heated rear window switch I assume the little orange light in the middle is only illuminated when the headlights are put on? Or when you switch it on? So the gauge will only be on when you put the headlights on but still have a permanent current to it?
So it's a case of popping the switch out and finding the permanent live wire (at a guess there will be more than one going to it).
#36
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Nope, still not there.
That hrw switch, or the cig lighter will have a tiny bulb in to illuminate them. The hrw switch, and the cig lighter glow green in the dark, the centre amber light comes on when you switch on the heating element, ie: the rear screen heater.
You need to tap into the wire that makes them light up when you switch on the sidelights. First click on **** on end of lighting stalk.
It SHOULD NOT be a permanent live, or your boost gauge will be lit up all the time![Frown](images/smilies/frown.gif)
It should be live ONLY with IGN on SECOND click and sidelights/and/or headlights on.
So: let's assume you are working at the rear of the hrw switch?
Yoy switch on IGN to second click. You switch on sidelights, (**** on end of lighting stalk on first click). Check that sidelights are on by looking![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Now, using your circuit tester, probe each of the wires behind that switch until you find one that makes the tester light up.
When you have this wire, CHECK IT BY SWITCHING THE CAR'S LIGHTS OFF, THEN ON AGAIN. Does the circuit tester go off, then on again? If so, you have the wire you want.
If not, forget that wire, make sure car's lights are still on and probe until you find another. Repeat the bit with lights off, then on, keep doing this until you find the correct wire.
Then remember it, turn off lights and IGN and tap into it using either a Scotchlok, or by CAREFULLY stripping some insulation from it, wrapping the stripped end of the yellow wire round the bared bit of your wire you just found, preferably soldering it, and taping the whole lot up neatly.
That's it.
That hrw switch, or the cig lighter will have a tiny bulb in to illuminate them. The hrw switch, and the cig lighter glow green in the dark, the centre amber light comes on when you switch on the heating element, ie: the rear screen heater.
You need to tap into the wire that makes them light up when you switch on the sidelights. First click on **** on end of lighting stalk.
It SHOULD NOT be a permanent live, or your boost gauge will be lit up all the time
![Frown](images/smilies/frown.gif)
It should be live ONLY with IGN on SECOND click and sidelights/and/or headlights on.
So: let's assume you are working at the rear of the hrw switch?
Yoy switch on IGN to second click. You switch on sidelights, (**** on end of lighting stalk on first click). Check that sidelights are on by looking
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Now, using your circuit tester, probe each of the wires behind that switch until you find one that makes the tester light up.
When you have this wire, CHECK IT BY SWITCHING THE CAR'S LIGHTS OFF, THEN ON AGAIN. Does the circuit tester go off, then on again? If so, you have the wire you want.
If not, forget that wire, make sure car's lights are still on and probe until you find another. Repeat the bit with lights off, then on, keep doing this until you find the correct wire.
Then remember it, turn off lights and IGN and tap into it using either a Scotchlok, or by CAREFULLY stripping some insulation from it, wrapping the stripped end of the yellow wire round the bared bit of your wire you just found, preferably soldering it, and taping the whole lot up neatly.
That's it.
#37
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Nope, still not there.
That hrw switch, or the cig lighter will have a tiny bulb in to illuminate them. The hrw switch, and the cig lighter glow green in the dark, the centre amber light comes on when you switch on the heating element, ie: the rear screen heater.
You need to tap into the wire that makes them light up when you switch on the sidelights. First click on **** on end of lighting stalk.
It SHOULD NOT be a permanent live, or your boost gauge will be lit up all the time![Frown](images/smilies/frown.gif)
It should be live ONLY with IGN on SECOND click and sidelights/and/or headlights on.
So: let's assume you are working at the rear of the hrw switch?
Yoy switch on IGN to second click. You switch on sidelights, (**** on end of lighting stalk on first click). Check that sidelights are on by looking![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Now, using your circuit tester, probe each of the wires behind that switch until you find one that makes the tester light up.
When you have this wire, CHECK IT BY SWITCHING THE CAR'S LIGHTS OFF, THEN ON AGAIN. Does the circuit tester go off, then on again? If so, you have the wire you want.
If not, forget that wire, make sure car's lights are still on and probe until you find another. Repeat the bit with lights off, then on, keep doing this until you find the correct wire.
Then remember it, turn off lights and IGN and tap into it using either a Scotchlok, or by CAREFULLY stripping some insulation from it, wrapping the stripped end of the yellow wire round the bared bit of your wire you just found, preferably soldering it, and taping the whole lot up neatly.
That's it.
That hrw switch, or the cig lighter will have a tiny bulb in to illuminate them. The hrw switch, and the cig lighter glow green in the dark, the centre amber light comes on when you switch on the heating element, ie: the rear screen heater.
You need to tap into the wire that makes them light up when you switch on the sidelights. First click on **** on end of lighting stalk.
It SHOULD NOT be a permanent live, or your boost gauge will be lit up all the time
![Frown](images/smilies/frown.gif)
It should be live ONLY with IGN on SECOND click and sidelights/and/or headlights on.
So: let's assume you are working at the rear of the hrw switch?
Yoy switch on IGN to second click. You switch on sidelights, (**** on end of lighting stalk on first click). Check that sidelights are on by looking
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Now, using your circuit tester, probe each of the wires behind that switch until you find one that makes the tester light up.
When you have this wire, CHECK IT BY SWITCHING THE CAR'S LIGHTS OFF, THEN ON AGAIN. Does the circuit tester go off, then on again? If so, you have the wire you want.
If not, forget that wire, make sure car's lights are still on and probe until you find another. Repeat the bit with lights off, then on, keep doing this until you find the correct wire.
Then remember it, turn off lights and IGN and tap into it using either a Scotchlok, or by CAREFULLY stripping some insulation from it, wrapping the stripped end of the yellow wire round the bared bit of your wire you just found, preferably soldering it, and taping the whole lot up neatly.
That's it.
I don't think I'm going to attempt this myself now
![Lol1](images/smilies/lol1.gif)
#39
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Hmm, so after thinking about this, the hard bit will be getting the earth and boost pipe through the bulkhead to the manifold nipple/earth point and then trying to get to the back of the cig lighter. Fun, fun, fun.
#41
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As above.
And a simple search on here would have thrown up the fact that unless you have aircon, there is an unused grommet low down on the passenger side bulkead, and if you DO have aircon, one you can use low down below the clutch master cylinder on the other side bulkhead.
A piece of stiff wire like an old coathanger is useful for feeding wires/pipes through.
And a simple search on here would have thrown up the fact that unless you have aircon, there is an unused grommet low down on the passenger side bulkead, and if you DO have aircon, one you can use low down below the clutch master cylinder on the other side bulkhead.
A piece of stiff wire like an old coathanger is useful for feeding wires/pipes through.
#43
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As above.
And a simple search on here would have thrown up the fact that unless you have aircon, there is an unused grommet low down on the passenger side bulkead, and if you DO have aircon, one you can use low down below the clutch master cylinder on the other side bulkhead.
A piece of stiff wire like an old coathanger is useful for feeding wires/pipes through.
And a simple search on here would have thrown up the fact that unless you have aircon, there is an unused grommet low down on the passenger side bulkead, and if you DO have aircon, one you can use low down below the clutch master cylinder on the other side bulkhead.
A piece of stiff wire like an old coathanger is useful for feeding wires/pipes through.
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
#48
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The carshops I TOLD you about on THURSDAY night are closed on SUNDAY when YOU decide to go out and try and buy one?
You could have e-bayed one thursday night and it would have been here saturday, or borrowed one of mine, which I DID offer, since I have two........
You couldn't make this up, could you?
![Whatever Anim](images/smilies/Whatever_anim.gif)
![Whatever Anim](images/smilies/Whatever_anim.gif)
![Whatever Anim](images/smilies/Whatever_anim.gif)
#52
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As per text, Harrisons were shut, Godfrey only had a multimeter, Wilco no stick till tuesday. Got the gauge soldered and taped well but was battling rain etc today. All done and looks good. Had to rewire the light in the back of the gauge as it was loose and have tie wrapped boost pope away from clutch pedal. Soldering was the easy part ![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
And Xmas postage would depict more than two days for postage of some cheap eBay tat.
So it's fitted, Jeff has got a hernia from stress and it looks well plumbed in. Matt (ilogikal1), thanks for your assistance (and torch) today. I'm sure you'd agree it wasn't you work me watch as Jeff likes to portray.
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
And Xmas postage would depict more than two days for postage of some cheap eBay tat.
So it's fitted, Jeff has got a hernia from stress and it looks well plumbed in. Matt (ilogikal1), thanks for your assistance (and torch) today. I'm sure you'd agree it wasn't you work me watch as Jeff likes to portray.
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
#53
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No, it was Matt work, Andy talk to Isaac and make coffee. You can't fool me.
Christmas postage or no, I ordered 36 cutting discs last week at only £1.99, they were here the next day. Free delivery.
Here you go: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-CIRCUI...item563a0e4542
Express delivery available.
Plus there are TWO hanging here in my boiler house
Christmas postage or no, I ordered 36 cutting discs last week at only £1.99, they were here the next day. Free delivery.
Here you go: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-CIRCUI...item563a0e4542
Express delivery available.
Plus there are TWO hanging here in my boiler house
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
#57
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In fairness Jeff the grommets hole for wiring to the engine bay is made and I know how to remove the dash pieces. Second time round should be easier due to past experience, especially if there isn't loads more wires and just a few.
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#60
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I'm busy then too... ![Suspicious](images/smilies/Suspicious.gif)
Just in case anyone's found this thread hoping for some helpful (other than Jeff's on locating a live feed, of course) advice, we spliced into the cig lighter; solid red wire is the ignition live and ended up grounding by the gear shifter for ease of access.
Oh, and it actually took longer to get a circuit tester than to actually wire it up too![Lol1](images/smilies/lol1.gif)
On the bright side, Andy now knows the fine art of tinning wires
![Suspicious](images/smilies/Suspicious.gif)
Just in case anyone's found this thread hoping for some helpful (other than Jeff's on locating a live feed, of course) advice, we spliced into the cig lighter; solid red wire is the ignition live and ended up grounding by the gear shifter for ease of access.
Oh, and it actually took longer to get a circuit tester than to actually wire it up too
![Lol1](images/smilies/lol1.gif)
On the bright side, Andy now knows the fine art of tinning wires
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)