It's official Big end No 4 gone
30 April 2002, 09:41 AM
#31
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Bob Rawle was collating all of the "failure" info, but I don't think he ever "published" the resuts.
Mark.
Mark.
30 April 2002, 09:56 AM
#34
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I'll be doing an oil change in a couple of days time. To say I'm frightened to do it is an understatement. 
Just waiting for my new MAF to arrive so I do them together.
Cheers,
wrexy.
[Edited by WREXY - 4/30/2002 9:57:34 AM]
Just waiting for my new MAF to arrive so I do them together.Cheers,
wrexy.
[Edited by WREXY - 4/30/2002 9:57:34 AM]
30 April 2002, 10:26 AM
#35
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30 April 2002, 10:37 AM
#37
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Good one Chiark!
I always did fill up the oil filter before fitting, but then I just fitted it straight on. Now I know I have to keep topping it up before I fit it cos the oil takes time to soak through the filter material.
Cheers,
Wrexy.
I always did fill up the oil filter before fitting, but then I just fitted it straight on. Now I know I have to keep topping it up before I fit it cos the oil takes time to soak through the filter material.
Cheers,
Wrexy.
30 April 2002, 10:39 AM
#38
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Crypt,
if you were not on the public highway what sort of speeds were you running at?
I thought that we'd narrowed most of these failures down to high speed runs??
if you were not on the public highway what sort of speeds were you running at?
I thought that we'd narrowed most of these failures down to high speed runs??
30 April 2002, 11:01 AM
#40
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Could it be anything to do with heatsoak after going fast, then slowing and a sudden reduction in airflow? I noticed at Knockhill that cars which had an intake temp probe had temperatures over 70 deg C after sitting, which I was more aware of than my brakes/tyres etc on my first lap out after a rest. Imagine similar after sitting at lights from a 60 mph road, then if you went off at the lights you could have a lot of heat soak if you were sitting there for a few minutes?
Like most things could it be a combination of adverse factors rather than one individual problem resulting in failure?
Like most things could it be a combination of adverse factors rather than one individual problem resulting in failure?
30 April 2002, 11:13 AM
#41
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Could be on to something there John -- I notice that after a run even on a coldish day, I have to turn the heater to cold when I come to a halt in traffic otherwise I start to fry. This suggests there's a lot of spare hot water in the heater matrix, and it's only come from one place....
30 April 2002, 12:34 PM
#42
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Sorry to hear about you motor letting go and that you are now turning away from Scoobies possible.
Anyone know the rough price of a reconned engine or secondhand low mileage? is there anywhere that supply them...
I always worry that if say the big end bearing goes and you replace that.. then the rest of the engine will let go at some point later due to the wear and age of the other components not changed.
Therefore if something goes on my car MY96 UK currently running standard boost with 98,000mniles on the clock then I think I will be dropping a reconned engine in, or low mileage engine.
Good luck with the rebuild.
JGM
Anyone know the rough price of a reconned engine or secondhand low mileage? is there anywhere that supply them...
I always worry that if say the big end bearing goes and you replace that.. then the rest of the engine will let go at some point later due to the wear and age of the other components not changed.
Therefore if something goes on my car MY96 UK currently running standard boost with 98,000mniles on the clock then I think I will be dropping a reconned engine in, or low mileage engine.
Good luck with the rebuild.
JGM
30 April 2002, 12:51 PM
#44
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SATMAN,
Are you saying your engine popped as you were on your way home or wherever you were going, straight after the oil change?
Cheers,
Wrexy.
Are you saying your engine popped as you were on your way home or wherever you were going, straight after the oil change?
Cheers,
Wrexy.
30 April 2002, 01:22 PM
#46
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Sorry guys I've never changed my own oil on the Scoob.Just read the link on the previous page.Can someone just explain when you remove the crank sensor and start the engine.Please explain in a step by step manner for a mechanically challenged person.Many thanks,Deep.
30 April 2002, 02:40 PM
#49
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Well i'm off now to grade a who have got a 40,000 wrex engine for £1116 including vat. Not a cheap high speed
run after all. This moment of madness has now cost me:
£1116 engine
£300 clutch
£70?! 2 engine mounts
£100 cam belt
And god knows how much labour!
You live an learn.
There maybe defo something in the temp thing as my flywheel has hairline cracks in it through the heat and the clutch has burnt.
Sorry to hear about your 18 mile disaster What oil is everyone using now? as i defo will not put valvoline in it again.
Anyone wants to know speed mail me.
Not a cheap high speedrun after all. This moment of madness has now cost me:£1116 engine
£300 clutch
£70?! 2 engine mounts
£100 cam belt
And god knows how much labour!
You live an learn.There maybe defo something in the temp thing as my flywheel has hairline cracks in it through the heat and the clutch has burnt.
Sorry to hear about your 18 mile disaster
What oil is everyone using now? as i defo will not put valvoline in it again.Anyone wants to know speed mail me.
30 April 2002, 02:50 PM
#51
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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Ouch... there was a crashed wrx in the trader for 1600 which would have been worth it for the engine... bit late now suppose!
David
David
30 April 2002, 04:46 PM
#54
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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breakers section at the back... says one for the lads on the ad.. its in the northern one?? on the righthand page towards the top..
edited to say that I binned the trader... anybody confirm the price and number..
David
[Edited by David_Wallis - 4/30/2002 4:47:23 PM]
edited to say that I binned the trader... anybody confirm the price and number..
David
[Edited by David_Wallis - 4/30/2002 4:47:23 PM]
30 April 2002, 05:34 PM
#56
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Was running valvoline 5w/40 fully synthetic but changed to a semi synthetic a couple of days before faliure i couldnt tell you what grade because the garage put it in.
30 April 2002, 05:45 PM
#57
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Crypt,
Don't know if you ever read these threads, but you will need an hour to read them. The best techies on here, in these threads, were trying to work out what causes big end bearing failure and also talk about the best oils to use, and how often oil should be changed. Have a read.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002503.html
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002752.html
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002939.html
To cut a long story short, the two best oils were, Motul 300V 15W/50, Castrol RS 10W/60 and then as a third oil Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/60, all fully synthetic, and to be changed every 3000 miles, with a genuine Subaru oil filter with the above instructions on previous posts and that link Chiark provided.
Cheers,
Wrexy.
Don't know if you ever read these threads, but you will need an hour to read them. The best techies on here, in these threads, were trying to work out what causes big end bearing failure and also talk about the best oils to use, and how often oil should be changed. Have a read.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002503.html
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002752.html
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002939.html
To cut a long story short, the two best oils were, Motul 300V 15W/50, Castrol RS 10W/60 and then as a third oil Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/60, all fully synthetic, and to be changed every 3000 miles, with a genuine Subaru oil filter with the above instructions on previous posts and that link Chiark provided.
Cheers,
Wrexy.
