Pre-facelift Engines?
13 January 2013, 10:27 AM
#31
Try running that engine at a sustained RPM instead of a 5 second pull on a dyno and see how it fairs. Its ok tuning a stock classic engine to XXX bhp and driving it around at 30mph, its when its run under high load for long periods of time that the frailties are shown.
If someone is going to go to all the trouble of following your rebuild advice, for another 600 quid it would be worth fitting forged pistons/rods for piece of mind.....or bolt heads on a newage bottom end for the easy route.
There is a big difference to 400bhp for a dyno queen to 400bhp to someone who wants to use it.
If someone is going to go to all the trouble of following your rebuild advice, for another 600 quid it would be worth fitting forged pistons/rods for piece of mind.....or bolt heads on a newage bottom end for the easy route.
There is a big difference to 400bhp for a dyno queen to 400bhp to someone who wants to use it.
+1.
13 January 2013, 10:29 AM
#32
I disagree. One properly put together will last.
But I will add, the best option by far is to source a Ver7/8 Sti bottom end and fit the Sti3/4 heads. That's the road I've gone down as a low miles bottom end came up for a good price from a trusted trader on here.
£ per hp this is by far the best option, many have proven the Sti 7/8 bottom ends reliable at 450hp.
But I will add, the best option by far is to source a Ver7/8 Sti bottom end and fit the Sti3/4 heads. That's the road I've gone down as a low miles bottom end came up for a good price from a trusted trader on here.
£ per hp this is by far the best option, many have proven the Sti 7/8 bottom ends reliable at 450hp.
LOL..... thats pretty funny. You said how strong the early classic engines are but you swapped yours for a newage one... lol...
13 January 2013, 11:08 AM
#33
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Posts: 25,565
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Im agreeing with Jay here, ive had a mate running 240bhp on a UK turbo (MY00) that put a rod through the side of the block, thats those same rods that are good for 400bhp...
Ok he drove the car like he stole it, but he kept well on top of the servicing and the car only had 40k on when it let go, make your own mind up about that.
Then we have the gearbox issue.... the 754's are not much stronger than the 752's, there was a nice picture on here a couple of years back of an RB5 (standard car) 215bhp that ate its gearbox, so you are talking 211ish lbs of torque.
Then there is the P1 running 400bhp question, was this before or after it was rebuilt?
Remembering that quite a few had issues and had rebuilds, the standard conrod isnt strong, the odd car goes a little more but most dont, failure rate starts at when the first one lets go, not the last one, everything after the first one is a % less reliable and hence why most say 330-350bhp is the max on those engines.
Are they chocolate?
Well yes, they have too many inherent weaknesses that you cannot over look, the rods are one of the main ones due to their design, if you open that engine up for any reason then you may as well splash the cash and build it properly and the same goes for the gearbox, if it eats its gearset then go for a SC gearset (note not the PPG as they still use the standard 5th speed gear which then becomes the weak spot).
As I have said previously, its not a bad engine but the car needs alot spending on it to make it Reliable so you cannot take short cuts.
Tony
Ok he drove the car like he stole it, but he kept well on top of the servicing and the car only had 40k on when it let go, make your own mind up about that.
Then we have the gearbox issue.... the 754's are not much stronger than the 752's, there was a nice picture on here a couple of years back of an RB5 (standard car) 215bhp that ate its gearbox, so you are talking 211ish lbs of torque.
Then there is the P1 running 400bhp question, was this before or after it was rebuilt?
Remembering that quite a few had issues and had rebuilds, the standard conrod isnt strong, the odd car goes a little more but most dont, failure rate starts at when the first one lets go, not the last one, everything after the first one is a % less reliable and hence why most say 330-350bhp is the max on those engines.
Are they chocolate?
Well yes, they have too many inherent weaknesses that you cannot over look, the rods are one of the main ones due to their design, if you open that engine up for any reason then you may as well splash the cash and build it properly and the same goes for the gearbox, if it eats its gearset then go for a SC gearset (note not the PPG as they still use the standard 5th speed gear which then becomes the weak spot).
As I have said previously, its not a bad engine but the car needs alot spending on it to make it Reliable so you cannot take short cuts.
Tony
13 January 2013, 12:17 PM
#35
Scooby Regular
Classic's are classics for a reason.....there gettin old but are still great!!!!! Still so many of them around......I wonder why??? Cos there good ennuf said haha
13 January 2013, 03:48 PM
#36
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Posts: 25,565
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Nothing wrong with the classics, I have a classic and a new age (though the new age is better in every way 
) both are JDM though 
Dont be put off buying one, just dont expect miracles when modifying them, they are not as tunable as a new age STI so you have to remember that, also most of the parts are not as strong or as good so you have to upgrade more.
Tony
) both are JDM though Dont be put off buying one, just dont expect miracles when modifying them, they are not as tunable as a new age STI so you have to remember that, also most of the parts are not as strong or as good so you have to upgrade more.
Tony
13 January 2013, 04:07 PM
#37
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You make me LOL
I didn't say classics were super strong, just said that they are tuneable if your prepared to put the work in.
Nowadays with newage bottom ends going for very reasonable money it makes more financial sense to use them.
Last edited by Davey96wrx; 13 January 2013 at 04:14 PM.
13 January 2013, 10:07 PM
#40
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The wrx would of left the factory with cast pistons, the sti came with forged pistons. In the early days when the first sti was released it was actually put together away from the main production line. They took a normal wrx and completely reworked it, this is why the applied model code is the same on the wrx and sti. One thing that got reworked was the pistons. Original cast pistons were swapped with forged ones along with a list of other things.
Maybe your car had some forged pistons fitted before you got it or maybe its actually an sti.
Maybe your car had some forged pistons fitted before you got it or maybe its actually an sti.
13 January 2013, 10:09 PM
#41
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: everywhere
Posts: 2,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not funny at all, a newage bottom end came up at £550 which was a bargain!!!
You make me LOL
I didn't say classics were super strong, just said that they are tuneable if your prepared to put the work in.
Nowadays with newage bottom ends going for very reasonable money it makes more financial sense to use them.
You make me LOL
I didn't say classics were super strong, just said that they are tuneable if your prepared to put the work in.
Nowadays with newage bottom ends going for very reasonable money it makes more financial sense to use them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
28
28 December 2015 11:07 PM
Sam Witwicky
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
17
13 November 2015 10:49 AM
Brzoza
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
1
02 October 2015 05:26 PM