Major ECU confusion.
#32
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Ok, ive just re read you first post. So a new 02 sensor resolved the issues? if so did the garage use a genuine Subaru part?
Pattern 02 sensors have been known to fail after a very short time, always best to use genuine.
Pattern 02 sensors have been known to fail after a very short time, always best to use genuine.
Last edited by jayallen; 15 June 2012 at 11:18 PM.
#36
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Blimey, I've not read a thread on early classic running issues in here for years, and there seems to be an auwful lot of bull floating around in here.......
o2 sensor CEL doesn't even normally come on if the 02 sensor is faulty or disconnected, unless you do a diagnostics check.
It normally flags due to something else.
I would suggest marking the idle speed control valve position, taking the top off and giving it a clean (it's a magnetic rotary affair). Refit in orig position or adjust if idle is wrong.
Z4 or U8 ECU will be fine but Z4 is the cleaner map with slightly higher boost then the U8 (260ps for Z4, 240ps for U8).
o2 sensor CEL doesn't even normally come on if the 02 sensor is faulty or disconnected, unless you do a diagnostics check.
It normally flags due to something else.
I would suggest marking the idle speed control valve position, taking the top off and giving it a clean (it's a magnetic rotary affair). Refit in orig position or adjust if idle is wrong.
Z4 or U8 ECU will be fine but Z4 is the cleaner map with slightly higher boost then the U8 (260ps for Z4, 240ps for U8).
#37
Blimey, I've not read a thread on early classic running issues in here for years, and there seems to be an auwful lot of bull floating around in here.......
o2 sensor CEL doesn't even normally come on if the 02 sensor is faulty or disconnected, unless you do a diagnostics check.
It normally flags due to something else.
I would suggest marking the idle speed control valve position, taking the top off and giving it a clean (it's a magnetic rotary affair). Refit in orig position or adjust if idle is wrong.
Z4 or U8 ECU will be fine but Z4 is the cleaner map with slightly higher boost then the U8 (260ps for Z4, 240ps for U8).
o2 sensor CEL doesn't even normally come on if the 02 sensor is faulty or disconnected, unless you do a diagnostics check.
It normally flags due to something else.
I would suggest marking the idle speed control valve position, taking the top off and giving it a clean (it's a magnetic rotary affair). Refit in orig position or adjust if idle is wrong.
Z4 or U8 ECU will be fine but Z4 is the cleaner map with slightly higher boost then the U8 (260ps for Z4, 240ps for U8).
It's had a new idle control switch that the previous owner put on a week before selling it. Idle adjusted when I was at the garage last too. Idling at 1,000
#40
I think it just needs a clean. When I get my next paycheck the car is going in for a full service, fluids, spark plugs, coil pack, I'll have it cleaned too.
I think this will solve all the problems.
I think this will solve all the problems.
#41
theres 4 coil packs and they are expensive to replace so prob best to take the tips off and check if they are ok before lashing out on new ones at circa £60 each.
#42
Ok Z4 is now back on the car. No CEL. Acceleration extremely rapid.
Was concerned with the ECU getting wet as the plate protecting it was a little damp, wrapped ECU in a plastic bag.
Hopefully CEL doesn't come back.
Was concerned with the ECU getting wet as the plate protecting it was a little damp, wrapped ECU in a plastic bag.
Hopefully CEL doesn't come back.
#46
Cleaned out ICV was full of gunk. Put back on the car and did an ECU reset as described on sboobypedia. But when it should have flashed half second pulses it flashed 4 long and 2 short flashes which is 42 Idle switch.
But when I took it out of diagnostic mode and turned the car on there was no CEL.
So is it fixed or what?
But when I took it out of diagnostic mode and turned the car on there was no CEL.
So is it fixed or what?
#47
Ok so apparently there was a major cockup.
I took it into the garage to have the entire ICV unit taken off and cleaned. Got back the car. Did the ECU reset and still have the flashes like I said early.
Anyway I was driving it around to see if the CEL would come on. Boosting quite high and there was a massive CLANG and sudden deceleration. At first I thought the gearbox had gone. Car was still drivable though but spluttered and wouldn't rev past 4,000.
Took it back to the garage where it turns out he'd removed the throttle body, Not the ICV and cleaned it. He then failed to put it together properly and the loud clang was my intercooler shooting off into my firewall.
It's attached back up now and i'm booked in tomorrow to have the right part cleaned
I took it into the garage to have the entire ICV unit taken off and cleaned. Got back the car. Did the ECU reset and still have the flashes like I said early.
Anyway I was driving it around to see if the CEL would come on. Boosting quite high and there was a massive CLANG and sudden deceleration. At first I thought the gearbox had gone. Car was still drivable though but spluttered and wouldn't rev past 4,000.
Took it back to the garage where it turns out he'd removed the throttle body, Not the ICV and cleaned it. He then failed to put it together properly and the loud clang was my intercooler shooting off into my firewall.
It's attached back up now and i'm booked in tomorrow to have the right part cleaned
#48
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A mechanic that doesnt know what the difference between an Idle control valve and and throttle body should not be working on your car , plus sounds like he left the intercooler brackets un bolted.
What the reason for it over boosting?
What the reason for it over boosting?
#49
I don't think it was overboosting, he just hadn't done up the hose clamps to it shot off.
#50
ffs your unlucky! first you got bad advise and now your mechanic has made two boo boos. take the car somewhere else or just take the magnet off and test it yourself. its only two screws. mark the position before you take it off though.
#51
I did that part myself. I wanted the entire unit taken off though cause I heard the mechanism can get dirty.
#52
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1992-1996.5 Ej20g v1/2 have 440cc injectors. I have no idea why you guys think they are 380.
OP, did you happen to jump the j1 connection to revert to the stock rom? I think something is fishy with the chip setup
OP, did you happen to jump the j1 connection to revert to the stock rom? I think something is fishy with the chip setup
#53
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[quote=jakea;10672354]1992-1996.5 Ej20g v1/2 have 440cc injectors. I have no idea why you guys think they are 380.
they are 380 as standard mate.have them as standard on my93 wrx.they are one of the limiting factors of going over 280ish and it was the sti that had 440's as standard.
they are 380 as standard mate.have them as standard on my93 wrx.they are one of the limiting factors of going over 280ish and it was the sti that had 440's as standard.
#56
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proof in the puddin mates
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...t=flow+results
if they were 380s, the 16gs would not be able to run up to a bar safely, which is where the 440s hit near 95% duty.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...t=flow+results
if they were 380s, the 16gs would not be able to run up to a bar safely, which is where the 440s hit near 95% duty.
#58
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a flow test by America's best injector suite
and
a wiki page of your peers that THINK these are 380s
anyone have a flow sheet at 43psi and the same specific gravity of fuel that says they are 380s?
also, consider how a 16g could even fathom 275bhp w/ 380cc of fuel